Sidmouth Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 After a few bleeds i cannot get the rear brake working as well as the front, however am thinking the rear has more oil and a longer way to go, and therefore the release is never going to be as responsive as the front brake, could this be the case or do i have another issue with the rear brake,Pistons,Seals any advice will help? .
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 Shimano no likey bleedy.
taito Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 It sounds like the master cylinder,,plastic moving parts inside.I replaced one some time ago
Sidmouth Posted November 30, 2015 Author Posted November 30, 2015 It sounds like the master cylinder,,plastic moving parts inside.I replaced one some time agoHi Taito, i think this could be the problem, is the master cylinder in the lever and if so how do you get to it, the unit seems rather sealed?
porqui Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 The rear has a minimal amount of oil more than the front - should not make a difference.Remember liquid cannot be compressed so a longer line will not make a dif.
Sidmouth Posted November 30, 2015 Author Posted November 30, 2015 I think I need to explore the master cylinder option anyone know how to get to that part, I looked but the lever part looks pretty sealed?
Wannabe Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 After a few bleeds i cannot get the rear brake working as well as the front, however am thinking the rear has more oil and a longer way to go, and therefore the release is never going to be as responsive as the front brake, could this be the case or do i have another issue with the rear brake,Pistons,Seals any advice will help? . Easy remedy.Take it off and replace with Avid Guides.Problem solved. tongue in the cheek remark, not to be taken serious;y......
porqui Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 You can't get to any parts on a Shimano - stukkend gooi weg. (jabtw Avids can be serviced)
ChUkKy Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 Shimano no likey bleedy. *** man, never had issues bleeding mine nor any others when it was necessary to do the job.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 *** man, never had issues bleeding mine nor any others when it was necessary to do the job.LOL. Wondered when someone was going to tag on that. Yeah, mostly painless. Unless you make a hack job of it, but they're not as... how can I say... consistent, as the Avids, once they've been bled. Have to work hard & be patient to get the same result.
ChUkKy Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 LOL. Wondered when someone was going to tag on that. Yeah, mostly painless. Unless you make a hack job of it, but they're not as... how can I say... consistent, as the Avids, once they've been bled. Have to work hard & be patient to get the same result. TrueAvids are consistently ***
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 TrueAvids are consistently ***LOL. Not in my experience. Prefer them over Shimano anyday.
Rocket-Boy Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 Easy remedy.Take it off and replace with Avid Guides.Problem solved. tongue in the cheek remark, not to be taken serious;y......That is quite funny, a short while ago if the brake in question were elixirs then the advice would have been to replace with xt...
Wannabe Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 TrueAvids are consistently *** LOL. Not in my experience. Prefer them over Shimano anyday. Same here.Got three sets. 1) My original Juicy Three's (they go from friend to friend as "loaners" whenever they have problems with their Shimano's) and they are still going strong. I x rebuild and 1 x bleed in about 5 years (got them 2nd hand) 2) My trusty Elixer R's. 3) My Avid XX's.Not a days trouble with any one of the sets.
Goosebay Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 have you tried both techniques - bottom up and top fillif there is any oil on the pads it will not perfom well either - put in the front pads (after you have cleaned the rotor) and see if there is a diff.remember to use mineral oil also make sure the line from the calipers to the lever is fairly straight - a bend can trap a bubble (might need to remove the caliper) Tapping the caliper can dislodge troublesome bubbles. now very impressed with my xt's - also had a perfermance issue - found pads to be contaminated. after pad change and lever setup performance was very good. oh another thing - sometimes the oil can still have air - pull some up in a syringe and seal the tip. pull back the plunger and see if bubbles appear - knock the syringe to coalesce the bubbles, do it a few times till no more bubbles appears.
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