Meezo Posted July 18, 2016 Author Posted July 18, 2016 I tried removing the piston on my SLX, but after I took the lever off, the pin behind the piston will not pull out of the lever body.It looks machined so that it wont come out. Is that the same as XT?Is there a way to get it out? the above should make some sense only you need a special tool remove, more in the comments of the video
alrikki Posted July 19, 2016 Posted July 19, 2016 How does the spring go back? is the hooked end supposed to stop on top of the body and do nothing?
Meezo Posted July 19, 2016 Author Posted July 19, 2016 How does the spring go back? is the hooked end supposed to stop on top of the body and do nothing? what spring? the lever spring http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/brake-time/1009547d1440018696-xt-lever-pivot-bushing-where-source-xt_lever.jpg
Pure Savage Posted August 18, 2016 Posted August 18, 2016 Surely it should go 1000 - 2000 - 3000 sand paper? Getting finer?
Meezo Posted August 18, 2016 Author Posted August 18, 2016 Surely it should go 1000 - 2000 - 3000 sand paper? Getting finer?Yes, it was said that before I'll correct the OP
Paul Cooke Posted October 11, 2016 Posted October 11, 2016 Thank you for this thread and all the easy to follow pics.... My XT lever is now back to 100% Thanks Skylark, Meezo and Mopkop 3
Meezo Posted October 11, 2016 Author Posted October 11, 2016 Thank you for this thread and all the easy to follow pics.... My XT lever is now back to 100% Thanksglad it helpedi plan to do some better pics soon. got another lever for repairs, just can't find the time... bleh Paul Cooke 1
spyghost Posted November 20, 2016 Posted November 20, 2016 (edited) anybody ever opened up an m8000? i'm having this issue atm. removing the lever is easy buy i'm a bit unsure about the piston. The return of the lever is not snappy. See the delay in the piston?https://vimeo.com/192303047https://vimeo.com/192303172 what's special with the shimano seals? are they proprietary shape/dimension? Edited November 20, 2016 by spyghost
usxorf Posted November 20, 2016 Posted November 20, 2016 anybody ever opened up an m8000? i'm having this issue atm. removing the lever is easy buy i'm a bit unsure about the piston. The return of the lever is not snappy. See the delay in the piston? Did you check whether the lever was snappy with the hose removed? Just asking 'cos I had a similar issue where the lever was slow to return, but with the hose removed the lever action was normal. Swapped the hose over to the other lever and it made that one sluggish. Was just a bad olive/pin, put in a new one and the lever returned to snappiness.
spyghost Posted November 20, 2016 Posted November 20, 2016 (edited) Did you check whether the lever was snappy with the hose removed? Just asking 'cos I had a similar issue where the lever was slow to return, but with the hose removed the lever action was normal. Swapped the hose over to the other lever and it made that one sluggish. Was just a bad olive/pin, put in a new one and the lever returned to snappiness.interesting, how can a barb/olive be bad? no harm trying since this is less intrusive. i'll report back I'm sure i used the right olive for m8k (silver) though... Edited November 23, 2016 by spyghost
spyghost Posted November 23, 2016 Posted November 23, 2016 reporting back... - without cable on the bad leversnappy return - swapped cablesthe good lever was still snappy, so that takes away the possiblity that the barb down the caliper being an issue. the bad lever was still slow even after a re-bleed, so this isolates the issue on that lever only i've dismantled the m8000 lever and cleaned things up. the instructions on the first page is exactly the same with the exception that there is no top cover for an m8000. when i wiped the inside of the MC, the piston and the spring with IPA, there are a few black stains that came out with the towel. could these be contributing to the issue? seems unlikely, but could it be? is the purpose of sandpapering the piston to remove material or just to clean up stuck debry?
JXV Posted November 23, 2016 Posted November 23, 2016 The black stains make me think the rubber seal has deteriorated. M8000 has not been long enough on the market for age to be the cause but I did hear that some early batches had issues. Can you confirm this brake was never exposed to DOT type brake fluid or oils other than Shimano mineral oil? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 1
spyghost Posted November 23, 2016 Posted November 23, 2016 The black stains make me think the rubber seal has deteriorated. M8000 has not been long enough on the market for age to be the cause but I did hear that some early batches had issues. Can you confirm this brake was never exposed to DOT type brake fluid or oils other than Shimano mineral oil? Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkNope never was. Perhaps Shimano just used an old batch of piston/seal from previous levers and just whacked it in m8k? Seals are still pliable though, soft, smooth and no signs of wear
JXV Posted November 23, 2016 Posted November 23, 2016 Nope never was. Perhaps Shimano just used an old batch of piston/seal from previous levers and just whacked it in m8k? Seals are still pliable though, soft, smooth and no signs of wearAny stickyness on the rubber parts? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
spyghost Posted November 23, 2016 Posted November 23, 2016 Any stickyness on the rubber parts? Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkNope, silky smooth
JXV Posted November 23, 2016 Posted November 23, 2016 Then a cleanout and reassembly should help. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now