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1x11 or not


JeremyCPT

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Posted

So I bought the Shimano XT 1 x 11 upgrade kit from CWC, and am now looking for a decent chainring. I'm looking at either of these 2 options:

 

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/shimano-slx-m7000-chainring-32t-1x11

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/shimano-xt-m8000-chainring-1x11

 

The M8000 has a much deeper tooth profile which I assume is primarily to prevent chain drops. Is it worth the extra money?

 

Thanks.

 

Also, the M8000 has a much deeper tooth profile which I assume is primarily to prevent chain drops. Is it worth the extra money?

That's the old m8000 chainring. New one has been changed to mirror the m7000 you linked to as the one without the narrow wide profile was still susceptible to chain drops.

 

And yes the m7000 SLX one will fit your m8000 crank as they share that stupid offset bcd.

 

Wait what Crank do you have? If it's not a Shimano m8000/m7000 those rings won't fit. If you have an older generation Shimano crank you'll need a normal chainring with a normal bcd pattern.

Posted

That's the old m8000 chainring. New one has been changed to mirror the m7000 you linked to as the one without the narrow wide profile was still susceptible to chain drops.

 

And yes the m7000 SLX one will fit your m8000 crank as they share that stupid offset bcd.

 

Wait what Crank do you have? If it's not a Shimano m8000/m7000 those rings won't fit. If you have an older generation Shimano crank you'll need a normal chainring with a normal bcd pattern.

Thanks Myles. I've got a Deore XT crank (3 speed) from a 2014 scott scale 940, so presumably need a normal chainring. 

Posted

I rode Tankwa Trek last weekend. For those that know the Merino monster is a climb like no other in SA - 1000m in 8km! My partner was running 1x11 (32T) vs my 2x10. He took serious strain up the climb having to dig really deep to match my speed. On the slightly downhill district road on the other side of the mountain I had to wait for him as he couldn't maintain the high cadence needed and spun out at the end of a 4+ hour day. We both found this frustrating as we were competing for an age group podium finish. Needless to say he is converting 2x11 in time for the Epic.

This Merino Monster

I want ????

 

Glad to hear about the bigger cassette for the top end there, jcza

Thanx V12

Will consider it

Posted

I have been pondering on this subject to update my bike not that it's old (2015 model) but won't be to save weight because the Shimano cassette weighs more than my cassette /front derailleur and almost shifter put together that's what's put me off and losing some range as well in 1x case. I know the Sram cassettes are lighter but that would cost nearly 3x the price of the Shimano and Sram doesn't do 2x11. I want to spend some money on the bike but don't want to be disappointed with the changes so would probably save a bit and get carbon wheels. Hahaha!

Posted

Would love to know how the SRAM Eagle (1x12 with 10-50) behaved on the Merino Monster. Would it have compared well with the 2x10. In my opinion I think it would. Doing the Epic on my 1x12 (34T up front).  

Posted

OK so this is a rookie question but.... I've fitted my new 1x casette, shifter, cable, chainring etc and am about to start setting up the indexing/cable tension.

 

But before I do that, I assume the new chainring should be where my old middle chainring (I had a 3x setup previously) used to be? Ie: on the inside of the spider (I think that is what it is called).  

 

Thanks

Posted

OK so this is a rookie question but.... I've fitted my new 1x casette, shifter, cable, chainring etc and am about to start setting up the indexing/cable tension.

 

But before I do that, I assume the new chainring should be where my old middle chainring (I had a 3x setup previously) used to be? Ie: on the inside of the spider (I think that is what it is called).  

 

Thanks

 

That's where I have mine and seems to be working hundreds .....

Posted

Hi,

 

can someone please save me me the trouble of working out what chain ring i'll need.

 

I currently run a Shimano 11/36 with 38/24 chain rings on a 27,5 and will be moving to a 29er which has a Shimano 11/46 cassette. Which single chain ring should I match it with, without losing gears.

 

Thanks. 

Posted

Hi,

 

can someone please save me me the trouble of working out what chain ring i'll need.

 

I currently run a Shimano 11/36 with 38/24 chain rings on a 27,5 and will be moving to a 29er which has a Shimano 11/46 cassette. Which single chain ring should I match it with, without losing gears.

 

Thanks. 

you won't be able to get a single without missing on either granny or top end, unless you get the Eagle 10-50 cassette or e-13 9-44 cassette.

 

As soon as you dip below 38t you lose on the top end, because the highest gear is still an 11t. So you need to decide what you favour - ease of climbing or top end speed - and plan accordingly.

 

To have the same climbing gear as the 24-36 you'd need a 30t at the front. Which would mean you'd lose 21% from your top end. 

 

At 38t you keep the top end but lose 18.7% from your climbing. It'll always be a compromise. 

Posted

Hi,

 

can someone please save me me the trouble of working out what chain ring i'll need.

 

I currently run a Shimano 11/36 with 38/24 chain rings on a 27,5 and will be moving to a 29er which has a Shimano 11/46 cassette. Which single chain ring should I match it with, without losing gears.

 

Thanks. 

 

The biggest one you can find?

 

you won't be able to get a single without missing on either granny or top end, unless you get the Eagle 10-50 cassette or e-13 9-44 cassette.

 

As soon as you dip below 38t you lose on the top end, because the highest gear is still an 11t. So you need to decide what you favour - ease of climbing or top end speed - and plan accordingly.

 

To have the same climbing gear as the 24-36 you'd need a 30t at the front. Which would mean you'd lose 21% from your top end. 

 

At 38t you keep the top end but lose 18.7% from your climbing. It'll always be a compromise. 

 

Thanks Myles for the maths

 

How does this change for an oval ring? A 36 Oval 'feels' like a 34 but accelerates like a 38, if I can make that simplification.

 

I'm riding an oval ring and enjoying it - just interested to hear if you can add science to this.

Posted

The biggest one you can find?

 

 

Thanks Myles for the maths

 

How does this change for an oval ring? A 36 Oval 'feels' like a 34 but accelerates like a 38, if I can make that simplification.

 

I'm riding an oval ring and enjoying it - just interested to hear if you can add science to this.

It doesn't change it at all. You're still turning the same amount of teeth. It's just the positioning and design that affects the perceived effort as the majority of the effort is concentrated around the "power" zones. But it makes no difference to the ratios whatsoever. 

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