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Opinion on Cost of bikes


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I've been a mountain biker for around 14 years.  In 2012 I bought a relatively top spec Carbon 29er Dual suspension.  I had good miles on it, but in the last 18 months or so many things gave me issues on the bike.  I had to spend around R25k on replacing / Servicing of parts.  I also manage to crack the frame last year, got it fixed for R6000 and this weekend I've notice another crack, but this time on the swing arm.  Will wait for the warranty guys to come back to me with regards to this one.  This frame manufacturer claim they have lifetime warranty...

 

I've always been into XC racing / Trail riding, so to race hard has always been my scene. 

 

However with all this trouble, gave me the thought of that I had enough of this expensive XC bikes, and I can't keep up with the Jones's anymore....  

 

I feel like just getting an aluminium dual sus with full XT bike with around 120-130 travel (a little beavier bike).  Maybe it will last longer!  This bike will be about 2 kg heavier (+- 13kg), but it will not make me much slower...  

something like this:  https://www.canyon.com/en-au/mtb/nerve/nerve-al-9-9.html

 

 

Are there other people that also feel the same as me or also having so much issues with these high end carbon bikes.......   

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Cannondale Scalpel 1 29er. (2012 Model). The bottom bracket bearings / headset bearings never last more than 1000 km.

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I am fortunate enough to own quite a few expensive bikes, luckily never had any issues. It would be difficult for me to go back to something cheaper if I had to, but again not impossible. Not because I would be slower or faster, but just the overall looks and the way a bike feels are quite important to me.

 

Maybe try another brand?

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Pretty sure a dual suss bike is more maintenance. More moving parts = more stuff to break and service = more cost.

 

 

 

Maybe you need a cheap hardtail for training.

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I am fortunate enough to own quite a few expensive bikes, luckily never had any issues. It would be difficult for me to go back to something cheaper if I had to, but again not impossible. Not because I would be slower or faster, but just the overall looks and the way a bike feels are quite important to me.

 

Maybe try another brand?

I would easily go for another brand.  I'am a little scared with cannondale now...  unfortunately..  It is an awesome ride though...

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I agree with Johny Bravo here .In mountain biking ( as with most things in life ) you get what you paid for up to a certain point , then it becomes a bit silly . For mountain bike components the cut of for good quality and reliability value for money will probably ( personal opinion ) be xt / x9 . There is another thread running here on the hub regarding price differences in dual suspension frames , and if you look at a quality alu vs carbon frame the difference is not that much ?? 

BB and headset bearings also won't be different whether you have alu or carbon , and also won't be a reflection on the brand of bike .

There might be a problem with the way you clean your bike ? do you use a pressure hose on it maybe ? Those things tend to blow the grease of the bearings .

Or are you maybe doing a lot of water crossings or muddy rides ? If that's the case you should then service your bearings more often .

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Although the frame and (possibly?) fork and shock may last longer on an beefier bike as you call it, the common parts that I find needs replacing more often like bottom bracket, chain, cassette etc are going to cost you exactly the same to replace. So by going for an Alu bike with 120-130mm travel you will perhaps only lower the risk of breaking a frame. What I can say however is that for me the fun/playfulness level is definitely higher in my 120mm bike than my 100mm xc bike, and I do tend to take more risks with it as it definitely can handle rougher stuff...

 

You can actually get a pretty good compromise these days by going for something like a Thunderbolt or Camber, they are much lighter than these type of bikes used to be.

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I agree with Johny Bravo here .In mountain biking ( as with most things in life ) you get what you paid for up to a certain point , then it becomes a bit silly . For mountain bike components the cut of for good quality and reliability value for money will probably ( personal opinion ) be xt / x9 . There is another thread running here on the hub regarding price differences in dual suspension frames , and if you look at a quality alu vs carbon frame the difference is not that much ?? 

BB and headset bearings also won't be different whether you have alu or carbon , and also won't be a reflection on the brand of bike .

There might be a problem with the way you clean your bike ? do you use a pressure hose on it maybe ? Those things tend to blow the grease of the bearings .

Or are you maybe doing a lot of water crossings or muddy rides ? If that's the case you should then service your bearings more often .

I never use high pressure washers, and also never spray directly at any bearings.  I also don't do alot of wet / muddy rides.  It can't be that.  

 

Another bike I feel that should not give me so much issues is the Trek Fuel Ex 9 (Alu)  It has GX / X1 spec on it with XT brakes....   

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Although the frame and (possibly?) fork and shock may last longer on an beefier bike as you call it, the common parts that I find needs replacing more often like bottom bracket, chain, cassette etc are going to cost you exactly the same to replace. So by going for an Alu bike with 120-130mm travel you will perhaps only lower the risk of breaking a frame. What I can say however is that for me the fun/playfulness level is definitely higher in my 120mm bike than my 100mm xc bike, and I do tend to take more risks with it as it definitely can handle rougher stuff...

 

You can actually get a pretty good compromise these days by going for something like a Thunderbolt or Camber, they are much lighter than these type of bikes used to be.

The Camber appears to be very popular.  I've just checked it out, and it also does not have the brain technology which is a plus in my opinion.  Don't need special expertise to service them. :)

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I can't comment specifically on 120-130mm travel bikes but can comment on "downgrading" generally.

 

I too am priviledged to own some high-end carbon bikes - S-Works Epic, Colnago C59 type stuff and some years ago decided to get more durable bikes to train on so I could save the "expensive" maintenance.

 

I went for a steel Cotic, built strong with XT bought on sale from CRC, bulletproof Arch on Hopes and had it set up EXACTLY like my Epic.

 

For the road, I went steel CX, again set up like my road bike which I use with 28mm tyres .

 

The ease of maintenance, robustness, being able to ride over JHB potholes in the road without concern, the convenience of being able to take one bike with 35 mm CX tyres on holiday and being able to ride on and off road is a winner.

 

My Carbon toys hang in the cupboard and virtually never get ridden. I am convinced that, if your ego can handle it, you will not regret a sensible "downgrade"

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I can't comment specifically on 120-130mm travel bikes but can comment on "downgrading" generally.

 

I too am priviledged to own some high-end carbon bikes - S-Works Epic, Colnago C59 type stuff and some years ago decided to get more durable bikes to train on so I could save the "expensive" maintenance.

 

I went for a steel Cotic, built strong with XT bought on sale from CRC, bulletproof Arch on Hopes and had it set up EXACTLY like my Epic.

 

For the road, I went steel CX, again set up like my road bike which I use with 28mm tyres .

 

The ease of maintenance, robustness, being able to ride over JHB potholes in the road without concern, the convenience of being able to take one bike with 35 mm CX tyres on holiday and being able to ride on and off road is a winner.

 

My Carbon toys hang in the cupboard and virtually never get ridden. I am convinced that, if your ego can handle it, you will not regret a sensible "downgrade"

 

Steel is ALWAYS an upgrade!  :devil:

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The Scalpel is a race bike. If you're riding it aggressively you're going to hit the limits of its reliability on a regular basis. Something burlier will not only give you better durability, but your speed and confidence through the rougher stuff will improve drastically.

 

Wider rims, fatter tyres, slacker angles and more travel = far more fun on a day to day basis. Sure, you won't be as fast on the climbs but it sounds like you're not as bothered by that as a lot of other folk.

 

If you're looking at the Camber, check out the Transition Smuggler as well - slightly more aggressive, but will still handle a race without too much extra effort. And it can be built light and strong.

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2016 Camber is an awesome bike.  

 

Sweetspot is either the Comp or Comp Carbon.

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I had a Camber Comp 650b for a few days and it's really a great bike.

 

The 130mm fork and 68deg head angle is relaxed enough to give you confidence on the downhills but climbs pretty well to.

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I will not have a problem with my ego downgrading. That does not bother me at all.  Maybe fix the scalpel (again) and get a toy bike and do what eddy is doing....

just leave the scalpel there incase I have a race.  Trying to sell a 4 year old scalpel that has been completely replaced is another challange :)

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