GrumpyOldGuy Posted January 21, 2017 Posted January 21, 2017 The WD40 was R118 for the can...jislaaak.. :-(Yah, that is expensive. Imported.. weak rand.....! BUT.....rest easy, its excellent stuff, you will find a million uses for it, from rust protection to penetration fluid to a drill lubricant to opening stuck paint can lids, ....., it wont go to waste, we used it exclusively in the workshop for 30 years, Q20 is okay, but.....well, I just think WD40 is better. Holding thumbs. AlanD 1
Kalahari Vegmot Posted January 21, 2017 Posted January 21, 2017 I see Si uses it to clean and lube his chain after each ride because it's so cheap... Hehe, not for me thanks! Is there anything in particular that makes it more suitable than Q20
PhilipV Posted January 21, 2017 Posted January 21, 2017 I bought myself a Gedore socket set 27 years ago for R300. I still have the complete set. In it's blue metal box. Yes, good tools is one of the best investment a man can make.I bought myself a gedore set last year. Paid nearly R5k. I won't be surprised if it is similar to your set. While in the line an oomie asked me if it was full set with tools, I said yes oom, he said good, your kids will use them one day. It turns out he used to be the woodwork teacher at the local high school. I have a bit of a tool buying habit as well. GrumpyOldGuy, Captain Fastbastard Mayhem and dev null 3
GrumpyOldGuy Posted January 21, 2017 Posted January 21, 2017 (edited) I see Si uses it to clean and lube his chain after each ride because it's so cheap... Hehe, not for me thanks! Is there anything in particular that makes it more suitable than Q20We always found WD40 a better penetrating fluid and we dealt with frozen / seized bolts daily,... Q20 is a very good protector against rust or water though. In Alan's case we need to remember the sump plug is not rusted in, he is just unable to apply sufficient torque to the head of the bolt to remove it, as its rounded off. Oil pan plugs usually also have a compression washer to seal against oil leakage, so what we need to try and do is get a thin layer of lube to penetrate between the two sealing faces to reduce friction, and, hopefully allow him to remove the plug,... without going the full Monty. Edited January 21, 2017 by GrumpyOldGuy
mazambaan Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Sump plug. WD40 not that good as a penetrating agent (WD for water displacement - Kroll; ATF/acetone mixes etc better). Try the vice grips - mostly if a full 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar can't do it, piddly vice grips won't. Better to hammer on the next smallest size and try that. But have at it and good luck
AlanD Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 I got up early this morning to tackle my problem. There i was, tapping, spraying, gripping, tapping, banging, cursing, throwing tools everywhere...no luck at all. Called up a buddy who had a full socket wrench sey with that power bar.Drove on over and in 5 minutes everything was undone...SUCCESS. Need to phone around for a new bolt as the spares place i went to didn't have and said would need to get from tge agents. The lesson learnt is too invest in a full socket set with power bar. dev null, Grebel, Wannabe and 1 other 4
Grebel Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Glad you came right. Any tool no matter what it is will be a good investment as long as you have a use for it. And remember to always buy the best quality that you can afford. Stay away from Chinese ***... AlanD and dev null 2
GrumpyOldGuy Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 I got up early this morning to tackle my problem. There i was, tapping, spraying, gripping, tapping, banging, cursing, throwing tools everywhere...no luck at all. Called up a buddy who had a full socket wrench sey with that power bar.Drove on over and in 5 minutes everything was undone...SUCCESS. Need to phone around for a new bolt as the spares place i went to didn't have and said would need to get from tge agents. The lesson learnt is too invest in a full socket set with power bar.Great news, so the bolt head could not have been too badly damaged, I was under the impression it was completely rounded,... either way, the job is done and thats the main thing, have a beer and relax.
dev null Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 (edited) You should actually replace the sump plug with every oil change. The compression washer flattens when tightening the sump plug, which will, if reused too often, lead to oil leaks from the plug. And yes, I also don't replace it with every oil change. Maybe every third. Edited January 22, 2017 by Moridin Amberdrake and AlanD 2
AlanD Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Great news, so the bolt head could not have been too badly damaged, I was under the impression it was completely rounded,... either way, the job is done and thats the main thing, have a beer and relax.I didnt take the bolt out to see the damage but i did smack it a little woth a punch to try turn it so it should be fairly battered. Will first get a new one, then take it out and change the oil. Lol...ive had like 3 beers already. GrumpyOldGuy 1
GrumpyOldGuy Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 I didnt take the bolt out to see the damage but i did smack it a little woth a punch to try turn it so it should be fairly battered. Will first get a new one, then take it out and change the oil. Lol...ive had like 3 beers already.Oh okay, so you basically just loosened it up,... and the spark plugs? No doubt they popped out with a proper socket and breaker bar.? Workshops also often use air guns to tighten bolts because its time saving, and on the presumption they can also use the air gun to remove it again,.... but air guns really over tighten bolts and make it very difficult to remove without breaker bars or similar tools without the leverage required.
AlanD Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Yup, just lossened it a little so that when i get a new one it will be easier. My buddy had a breaker bar and appropriate socket and turned out so easily. Really need to get a set for sure.
CogitoErgoSum Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Indeed, left is loosening, right is tightening. But if you have a Chinese/Korean knock-off, it is the other way around.. My FAW truck (**** manufacturer btw) has most of its bolts and nuts in reverse to the conventional. Does anyone know of a probable cause for moisture under the tappet cover other than the usual blown gasket? The truck is heating up profusely, and pushing oil through its manifold breather diaphram. Other than that, it idles perfect without any plume of smoke... Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Skylark Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Indeed, left is loosening, right is tightening. But if you have a Chinese/Korean knock-off, it is the other way around.. My FAW truck (**** manufacturer btw) has most of its bolts and nuts in reverse to the conventional. Does anyone know of a probable cause for moisture under the tappet cover other than the usual blown gasket? The truck is heating up profusely, and pushing oil through its manifold breather diaphram. Other than that, it idles perfect without any plume of smoke... Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Do they use left hand threads in lots of unexpected places?
PhilipV Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Indeed, left is loosening, right is tightening. But if you have a Chinese/Korean knock-off, it is the other way around.. My FAW truck (**** manufacturer btw) has most of its bolts and nuts in reverse to the conventional. Does anyone know of a probable cause for moisture under the tappet cover other than the usual blown gasket? The truck is heating up profusely, and pushing oil through its manifold breather diaphram. Other than that, it idles perfect without any plume of smoke... Sent from my SM-G925F using TapatalkWe were looking at getting a FAW truck as they are so cheap, but went with Hino as we know them what is your honest opinion of the FAW?
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