Car maintenance

[Amberdrake]

Aftermarket, your gonna find it tied into live under dash somewhere likely.

Make sure to solder it correctly dry join will cause its own issues, The amps flowing to start the car is quite high.

[Skylark]

Its got that little black piece with the three pins on the end that you slot into the other piece in the car and then the light stops flashing and you good to start. I think it's after market.

Aftermarket for sure, they normally have a relay that shorts the coils out/something similar and/or the fuel cutoff.

 

I'd take it to a fitment place and ask them to deactivate the immobilizer(and remove it if needs be, you can always just leave it in place) , they will know exactly which wires to reconnect etc, aftermarket immobilizers normally have no wire code, all the wires are black to prevent(in theory) thieves from knowing how to bypass them. Basically you'll have an impossible task trying to trouble shoot it and they'll only charge a few hundred rand to deactivate it, money well spent.

[kosmonooit]

Just had to fix non-runner diesel Colt bakkie *uurgh*

[New Landy new life]

Eezibleed on Fleabay for about GBP26 including postage.

What a brilliant piece of kit. Blead the polo brakes and clutch no fuss. Landed at the door from FleaBay way cheaper than you can get from agent in JHB.

 

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[cfcjim]

What a brilliant piece of kit. Blead the polo brakes and clutch no fuss. Landed at the door from FleaBay way cheaper than you can get from agent in JHB.20161210_194505.jpg

 

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Brilliant!

[New Landy new life]

Just had to be patient with SAPO as it took 1 week from uk and 3 from JHB to CT

 

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Edited December 11, 2016 by CapeLandy

[AlanD]

HELP - Started servicing my toyota Tazz today and wanted to drain the oil first but could not get the oil plug bolt loose. Its now stripped, the bolt head, and cannot get the thing out.

 

Any ideas how i can get it out?

 

Problem 2 - the sparks plugs, they are so tight that they don't even budge, none of em. The last time it was serviced was when the cam belt pulley failed amd damaged the head and had to be replaced. I think the mechanics called on Hulk to tighten them.

 

Thanks

[Kalahari Vegmot]

HELP - Started servicing my toyota Tazz today and wanted to drain the oil first but could not get the oil plug bolt loose. Its now stripped, the bolt head, and cannot get the thing out.

Any ideas how i can get it out?

Problem 2 - the sparks plugs, they are so tight that they don't even budge, none of em. The last time it was serviced was when the cam belt pulley failed amd damaged the head and had to be replaced. I think the mechanics called on Hulk to tighten them.

Thanks

We had some issues with our jeep in Zambia, and the bundu "mr beeg" mechanic did not have the right sockets... Anyway, he welded on another bolt and undid them in that way. This is actually pretty darn effective, and have also done this myself. Replace the bolt with a new one afterwards.

 

Would some Q20 not work for the spark plugs?

[AlanD]

I dont have a welder but that is a good idea.

 

Was also thinking of sawing a slot in it and then use a screw driver to unscrew it.

 

Will go get some penetrating spray and keave it overnight and try again. Such a pain

[Kalahari Vegmot]

You could try a vice grip as well... Much less work than trying to saw a groove underneath your car...

[Mojoman]

I dont have a welder but that is a good idea.

 

Was also thinking of sawing a slot in it and then use a screw driver to unscrew it.

 

Will go get some penetrating spray and keave it overnight and try again. Such a pain

I don't know if you will get it right with slotting the head but you can also try to heat the bolt head up a bit with a blowtorch (if you have clear access). Spray some Q20 or similar around the head and then try a smaller socket and 'hammer' this tightly onto the stripped head, you might get lucky....

[AlanD]

Will try the vice grips (I have a par). What does heating the bolt head do? Allow you to hammer a smaller socket on?

[mazambaan]

The stripped plug - bit of heat onto the housing around the plug.  Then cold chisel (remember them!), punch and hammer. Cut a slot with the cold chisel on one edge of the plug (Dremel also works).  Use the punch at an angle in the slot and tap to loosen (make sure you angle the punch in the right direction. Big hammer and small blows better than small hammer and wild swings.

[Kalahari Vegmot]

Metal shrinks or expands when heated... Can't remember which one of the two though... So if it expands, the thinner metal around the bolt might expand slightly, so you can remove the bolt easier

[AlanD]

Just did some googling. Metal expands when heated but becuase bolt is constrained inside the oil sump, it should expand upwards. Then when it cools, the contraction is not constrained and happens all over. So theoretically, the bolt should became slightly smaller and hence easier to get out

[GrumpyOldGuy]

We had some issues with our jeep in Zambia, and the bundu "mr beeg" mechanic did not have the right sockets... Anyway, he welded on another bolt and undid them in that way. This is actually pretty darn effective, and have also done this myself. Replace the bolt with a new one afterwards.

 

Would some Q20 not work for the spark plugs?

I am assuming you mean Arc Weld.? Thats a common engineering "fix" but I would not suggest it, especially on a passenger car, modern cars use various metals and drain plugs are also usually magnetic, so unless you know the metallic structure you are working with you could (probably will) do a lot more harm than good. Arc welding will also risk damaging the many electronic components, so whatever you do, make sure you disconnect the battery completely first.

 

Onto the issue, slotting the head will probably be a waste of time, you will get even less leverage with a screwdriver than a spanner, in general you need to "jar" it loose, this is why an impact driver loosens nuts and bolts easily, its a constant "knocking" as opposed to applying a constant direct force that loosens it. Similar to what Mojoman said.

I however am a little more conservative (sorry Mojo ) so I would try some Q20 or even better WD40 if you can get it, spray it on liberally and leave for a few hours, then apply a Vice grip to the plug head and Tap the vice grip in both directions, left - loosen and right - tighten, keep applying WD40, its a painstaking process but keep at it and this should work the bolt loose.

Remember its "Tap" not "Hammer" I cant repeat it enough, avoid brute force.

 

Dont, I repeat DONT, force the Spark Plugs, clean the spark plug hole well, vacuum or blow it out but it must be clean, apply some WD40 or similar, if you apply a lubricant and the spark well is gritty the lubricant could seep the grit into the spark plug threads when you remove it, not a good thing, - Now, use a proper Spark plug socket (if you dont have one go get it) and a T bar, not those small dedicated spark plug spanners, they are for lawnmowers not cars, Its a bet the mechanic would have put the plugs in with a socket and bar and this why you are struggling, you cannot get sufficient leverage with those basic spanners, now remembering "lefty loosey" and "righty tighty" apply gentle pressure - my bet is it will loosen right out, if not you can apply GENTLE pressure in both directions again until it loosens up.

 

Clean the well properly, dont leave lubricant in the well, if you have some, apply a small dab of Copperslip (just barely coat the threads) to the spark plug threads, this will make them easier to remove next time and re insert.

 

Dont force things, if you strip a cylinder head spark socket its a mission, work gently and slowly and take your time, think about things, you should never need to apply brute force.

 

I wish you luck.       

Edited January 21, 2017 by GrumpyOldGuy