BDF Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 A "grrr" sound would normally not be a lube issue but a drivetrain alignment issue. so just going through all the logiical problem areas.
dirtypot Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 I should have added these to my original post....The B screw for adjusting the distance of the RD to the cassette.Depending on which RD you have it's location will be slightly different, but the limit screws are always together and the B screw sits by itself.
Jurgens Smit Posted July 27, 2016 Author Posted July 27, 2016 This is the 'tab' that I'm talking about.Haha was hella confused before you put up the picture. Yes It is threaded correctly
BDF Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 I should have added these to my original post.... The B screw for adjusting the distance of the RD to the cassette.Depending on which RD you have it's location will be slightly different, but the limit screws are always together and the B screw sits by itself. Dirtypot makes a good point about the tab. If you are not "sharp" about which side the chain should go it will permanently rub against this tab, stuffing up the tab and the chain in the process. If you live on the West Rand or are willing to travel there I am more than happy to tweak your setup if you like. Just PM me.
Jurgens Smit Posted July 27, 2016 Author Posted July 27, 2016 If you do, then you'll need to repack the bearings with grease as it'll remove that with the grit. Jockeys should just get a wipe to remove gunk. Not a degreaseAh ok, will avoid spraying it there then. When should you look at replacing the wheels?They have been in action since middle september 2014
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 Ah ok, will avoid spraying it there then. When should you look at replacing the wheels?They have been in action since middle september 2014When they start looking like shark teeth
JXV Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 Sunlight (dishwashing) liquid is one of the worst choices for cleaning anything on a bike. It contains a lot of salts and will promote corrosion. For cleaning chains, some sort of oilbased solvent like paraffin or diesel is better. It allows the lube to soak back inside the chain after washing. Water based lubes will repel lube if there is still any moisture inside the chain links and rollers...and this is where you really need the lube to be. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
shaper Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 You sure the RD indexing is set up correctly? Might not be chain rub on the FD (if you have one), but chain rub on the cassette once the lube rubs off as you have it on every gear.
Odinson Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 You sure the RD indexing is set up correctly? Might not be chain rub on the FD (if you have one), but chain rub on the cassette once the lube rubs off as you have it on every gear. Could be the indexing. Perhaps the chain is trying to creep up or down the block and the noise is made worse when the chain is dry?
BaGearA Posted July 27, 2016 Posted July 27, 2016 or your chain could be flipped over...yes there is a correct side and on certain drive trains is makes a hell of a noise take it off and flip it so you are looking at the other plate test and then around its own axis again and test again Good luck
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