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Second snapped 142 Thru Axle in 6 months


Ferro

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Posted

Saw another thru axle issue the other day. Also a DT on a Giant Reign. The thing keeps coming loose. Is it possible that yours may have loosened over time leading to play and the breakage? Duane Bosch, the owner of the Reign seemed to think there was some kind of alignment issue on his frame.

 

I hammer my 135QR equipped enduro bike and it never comes loose or breaks. Just sayin :-) 

 

Sorry, missed answering this in my previous post. It may have come loose but i have never noticed it doing so. i have never had to tighten it in the past then again this is maybe because it breaks too often.

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Posted

Both those failures look like fatigue failure (same thing as bending a piece of wire back and forth till it breaks) This can only happen if the axle is held rigidly on the threaded side and the non threaded side can move thus "bending" the axle repeatedly at the point where the thread goes into the frame, even fractions of millimetres of movement will be enough to break it over time.

 

If everything was working correctly the axle will not be subjected to a bending force, only a shear force which is much less likely to fatique the metal till breaking point.

 

Seeing that the wheelset is common to both frames the fist suspect would be that there is an incorrect or missing spacer or incorrectly adjusted bearings or something similar that causes the rear wheel to apply a bending force.

 

Other suspects might be that the tolerances on the non threaded hole is incorrect, a suspension pivot bearing is damaged or similar that allows the 2 swingarm sides to move independently. This is unlikely though seeing that it does the same on 2 different frames.

 

I like that theory. OP, was both axles snapped on the same bike? If so, remove your shock and cycle the rear triangle to check whether all the bearings are running smooth.

Posted

Thru-axles just need to be nipped tight. Don't tighten them to the point where you're blue in the face from the effort.

Spec on my Pyga says 20Nm. That's pretty darn tight.

Posted

Spec on my Pyga says 20Nm. That's pretty darn tight.

 

Guess so, but there is a saying: "Vas is vas. Te vas is fuckedup".

 

I've never had a sufficiently tightened TA come loose.

 

It's also good practice to check your bike regularly that whatever should be tight is tight and so on.

Posted

Guess so, but there is a saying: "Vas is vas. Te vas is fuckedup".

 

I've never had a sufficiently tightened TA come loose.

 

It's also good practice to check your bike regularly that whatever should be tight is tight and so on.

The problem with an axle like the ones pictured in this thread is that it's impossible to use a torque wrench (and easy to over tighten).

Posted

But... It may be the same frame type. He mentions "replacement frame" after he cracked his previous one. 

 

Might be onto something here. Yes it is the same frame type.

 

Edit: everything except for the actual frame and rear triangle were built over as is onto new frame

Posted

I have had my rear axle come loose after tightening it to a point where I thought I dont want to over tighten it so finger tight should be fine.

Needless to so on my first descent my wheel pulled up against the frame as the axle loosened itself.

Posted

Does the frame not have the "rests" for the wheels to sit and then the axle just tightens it.

 

This should eliminate the chances of the axle being sheered off. However if the wheels and all the weight is only supported by the axle then its looking for trouble. Especially with the lightweight materials used these days.

 

The only other option would be in the form of flex in the rear triangle causing metal fatigue or stress fracture. This I think is more the case possibly.

 

I think the rear triangle is flexing in an "unnatural" way - meaning not as designed to and the thru axle is the plaster to fix the design flaw?

 

Are you perhaps riding past the intended purpose of the frame design?

Posted

It is interesting that it breaks on the threaded section in both instances. It could be a busted bearing or two in the pivot or it could even be that it is not tightened enough resulting in more pressure on the thread. 

 

I might be wrong as I will have to double check this, but I am pretty certain that the drive side of the axle sits more or less flush with the frame when you look at it from the derailleur side

Posted

no frame is bulletproof but if it has done this on a replaced frame also then it could be that there is more flex than what the TA can sustain without cracking.

 

I know the TA stiffens up the rear triangle flex (typically in the Trance and Anthem) but I don't think it is supposed to flex this much.

 

In general bikes are being ridden harder these days - the average Joe mtber is doing more and more and going a lot faster these days putting more energy into their bikes than before.

Posted

Does the frame not have the "rests" for the wheels to sit and then the axle just tightens it.

 

This should eliminate the chances of the axle being sheered off. However if the wheels and all the weight is only supported by the axle then its looking for trouble. Especially with the lightweight materials used these days.

 

The only other option would be in the form of flex in the rear triangle causing metal fatigue or stress fracture. This I think is more the case possibly.

 

I think the rear triangle is flexing in an "unnatural" way - meaning not as designed to and the thru axle is the plaster to fix the design flaw?

 

Are you perhaps riding past the intended purpose of the frame design?

 

No "rests". If the TA snaps the wheel is just hanging by the other side of the TA and completely loose on the broken side. Hence, quite a dangerous design.

 

Frame design: i am really skrikkerig for the technical stuff. i don't hit jumps intentionally or go through anything gnarly unless it was a poor choice of line. i am at best probably an average weekend rider on chilled singletracks or jeep tracks. Not sure if this is beyond what the frame was for. Unless i'm too heavy.

 

i don't mind getting a solid TA if that will help. i checked out Myles' link but not sure exactly what i should be getting.

Posted

It is interesting that it breaks on the threaded section in both instances. It could be a busted bearing or two in the pivot or it could even be that it is not tightened enough resulting in more pressure on the thread. 

 

I might be wrong as I will have to double check this, but I am pretty certain that the drive side of the axle sits more or less flush with the frame when you look at it from the derailleur side

 

There is a stress concentration at the point where the thread stops, this will then be the first point of failure when the axle suffers fatique failure (For the more nerdish explanation - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration)

 

When Googling "phinx axle failure" there is no results so it is unlikely that it is an inherent frame design issue, my first guess would still be to look at the rear hub and see if it fits correctly and that it is correctly preloaded when the axle is tightened.

Posted

Does the frame not have the "rests" for the wheels to sit and then the axle just tightens it.

 

This should eliminate the chances of the axle being sheered off. However if the wheels and all the weight is only supported by the axle then its looking for trouble. Especially with the lightweight materials used these days.

 

The only other option would be in the form of flex in the rear triangle causing metal fatigue or stress fracture. This I think is more the case possibly.

 

I think the rear triangle is flexing in an "unnatural" way - meaning not as designed to and the thru axle is the plaster to fix the design flaw?

 

Are you perhaps riding past the intended purpose of the frame design?

 

Thats what I am thinking too. A Thru axle fork as rests for the hub ends and the axle itself is not taking the whole load. All of that changes if the axle comes loose of course...

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