Is it tubeless?

[bikebloke]

I have always understood that the bead not sealing is the issue because tubeless ready tyres have a different bead construction to 'ordinary' tyres

 

so sealing the side walls can be done but its not reliable because the bead seal will pop during use ..

 

but hey what do I know anyways

 

if that's wrong then I have some tyres I can use

[Christofison]

I have always understood that the bead not sealing is the issue because tubeless ready tyres have a different bead construction to 'ordinary' tyres

 

so sealing the side walls can be done but its not reliable because the bead seal will pop during use ..

 

but hey what do I know anyways

 

if that's wrong then I have some tyres I can use

True. My Giant P-XC2 rims seem to hold that non-tubeless bead pretty darn tight. Or perhaps that is because I use two layers of rim tape. Has never come off during a ride, never even burped, that I know of.

 

Edit: even when the tire is completely deflated it takes a bit of force to pop the bead out.

[JXV]

I have always understood that the bead not sealing is the issue because tubeless ready tyres have a different bead construction to 'ordinary' tyres

 

so sealing the side walls can be done but its not reliable because the bead seal will pop during use ..

 

but hey what do I know anyways

 

if that's wrong then I have some tyres I can use

Some tyres are sold as 'tubeless ready' eg Schwalbe TLR and Spez 2Bliss and WTB's TCS. These are easily converted.

 

The proper tubeless setups conform to a Mavic standard called UST with requirements for both rim and tyre. Hence the Maxxis LUST models.

 

If your old tyre's bead is loose enough to rotate on the rim when seated against the rim flanges ( e.g. with a slightly inflated tube) then it is not suitable for conversion to tubeless unless you go for one of the ghetto setups which involve slitting a tube to use as a rim liner - videos on youtube if you must. Some old tyres the sidewalls are very porous because they just there to support the tread and the tube which holds the air in.

 

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[Christofison]

Some tyres are sold as 'tubeless ready' eg Schwalbe TLR and Spez 2Bliss and WTB's TCS. These are easily converted.

 

The proper tubeless setups conform to a Mavic standard called UST with requirements for both rim and tyre. Hence the Maxxis LUST models.

 

If your old tyre's bead is loose enough to rotate on the rim when seated against the rim flanges ( e.g. with a slightly inflated tube) then it is not suitable for conversion to tubeless unless you go for one of the ghetto setups which involve slitting a tube to use as a rim liner - videos on youtube if you must. Some old tyres the sidewalls are very porous because they just there to support the tread and the tube which holds the air in.

 

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But LUST stands for Lightweight Ultimate Sidewall Technology? Even though it conforms to UST Universal Standard for Tubeless.

[Christofison]

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The-Point-UST-Rims-Tires-2013.html

[JXV]

But LUST stands for Lightweight Ultimate Sidewall Technology? Even though it conforms to UST Universal Standard for Tubeless.

As far as I know Yes. Might be wrong.

 

My LUST Ardents are much heavier the Spez 2bliss tyres but also much tougher. No sidewall leakage at all and they are easy to seat on WTB rims with just a normal floorpump. Very durable but I prefer the spez GC/Purgatory combo as it simply outperforms Ardents on my local trails

 

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[bikebloke]

well I have the mavic rims so maybe ill just have to blow more $$$ and get the matching tyres...........

 

this NOT good enough all these standards that aren't standard and universal systems that aren't universal mumble mumble bugger etc

 

"Non-UST tires will work on UST rims, but they don’t have the security of the bead locking securely into the rim channel .... this means that a loose fitting tire could be more prone to rolling off the rim or exploding off of it under high inflation pressure"

[JXV]

well I have the mavic rims so maybe ill just have to blow more $$$ and get the matching tyres...........

 

this NOT good enough all these standards that aren't standard and universal systems that aren't universal mumble mumble bugger etc

 

"Non-UST tires will work on UST rims, but they don’t have the security of the bead locking securely into the rim channel .... this means that a loose fitting tire could be more prone to rolling off the rim or exploding off of it under high inflation pressure"

In addition to the rim and bead details the Mavic/Michelin/Hutchinson UST standard includes the requirement for airtight casings. This makes the UST compliant tyres heavier but they can run without sealant.....until you get a puncture... whereas the tubeless ready types need sealant 24/7 to keep their porous lightweight casings sealed.

 

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[bikebloke]

so is that supposed to be a good thing ...or not

 

what if you get a puncture?

do you put in sealant anyway? which makes it even heavier

or do you use lighter tyres that aren't ust

and use sealant ...

 

im totally confused now

[Allrounder]

so is that supposed to be a good thing ...or not

 

what if you get a puncture?

do you put in sealant anyway? which makes it even heavier

or do you use lighter tyres that aren't ust

and use sealant ...

 

im totally confused now

hahaha i am with you. 

 

Solution: kenda 8 block with slug tubes....      

[Capricorn]

so is that supposed to be a good thing ...or not

 

what if you get a puncture?

do you put in sealant anyway? which makes it even heavier

or do you use lighter tyres that aren't ust

and use sealant ...

 

im totally confused now

 

the latter combo is close to perfect for most, so go with that. YOu dont need fully UST compliant tyres to reap the benefits of going tubeless. Tubeless ready or full ghetto-conversions are enough.

[dave303e]

I run UST maxxis tyres with slime, touch wood haven't fixed a puncture/plugged a tyres in years. For me that is more than reason enough to deal with the extra weight...

[divernick]

It says performance line. So that means it's not actually tubeless but you could make it? Eish, I don't have a lot of stans left so will have to go with one of the others. Doing hill2hill this weekend and I'll only get to a shop on Friday.

 

Thanks for the advice. You guys sure are clever

I run Performance Racing Ralphs tubeless all the time and they work like a charm on my Spank rims - no issues at all.

[Martin PJ]

A 1 in 100 failure rate (for example) may be acceptable to someone trying to save money on tires (for example, someone like me), but this failure rate wouldn't be allowed by the manufacturer. They would expose themselves to too much risk.

 

Personally I wouldn't put non tubeless tires as tubeless, because the manufacturers say you shouldn't. I pay a lot of money for races, like to maximise my chances of finishing.

[Capricorn]

A 1 in 100 failure rate (for example) may be acceptable to someone trying to save money on tires (for example, someone like me), but this failure rate wouldn't be allowed by the manufacturer. They would expose themselves to too much risk.

 

Personally I wouldn't put non tubeless tires as tubeless, because the manufacturers say you shouldn't. I pay a lot of money for races, like to maximise my chances of finishing.

errm, nice bit of theory you got going there, but its all presumptive and very much negative while ignoring the positive experiences out there. There are those of us who ran ghetto tubeless for years without 'failure', which I assume you mean to refer to tyres blowing off the rim. The thing about ghetto, is that if the bead don't seat, its game over wrt going tubeless. But the ghetto aspect provides additional purchase for the bead, and often it seals. Once it seals, you are pretty much good to go. For a very long time.

 

Note too: your theory doesn't take into account the reality that even with full tubeless compliant tyres and rims, tyres still get blown off the rim. Mine burps if I hit an edge hard enough. So now what? give up cycling cos the smidgen of risk of failure?

[mtbride]

All comes down to terrain. Yes, go ahead and run those Performance level non-snakeskin Racing Ralphs tubeless at Hakahana. If you come out the other side without having to have fixed 20 sidewall leaks then you're damn good at avoiding sidewall cuts. The Snakeskin versions are worth every cent in rocky terrain, and they are made for tubeless as the sidewall is stiffer, so you can run lower pressures, and the risk of debeading certainly lower.

 

I might be exaggerating a bit, but I had them on with slime tubes, and got so many cuts the 1st time at Hakahana, that I had to chuck the slime tube after that episode.