The Bernard Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Any advice out there about running tubeless on a road bike. My rims are tubeless ready so conversion is simple, my question is - Is it worth it?
PregoRoll Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 No doubt about it! You wont look back! Im not sure why it is taking so long to catch on but its Bladdy Fantastic!
Sitting@89 Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Will be watching this with keen interest as I would like to hear some opinions on this. Afaik one of the main problems with this is sealant reliability at the very high pressures run on road bike tyres
openmind Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Absolutely worth it. Zero punctures in three years. I use Schwalbe Pro One tyres, 25mm. 30ml of Stans in each tyre. Ride anywhere - I had a piece of barbed wire in my tyre once, pulled it out and carried on riding. Could not even find the hole afterwards. Also, the Pro Ones are faster than clinchers with tubes.
MarcL Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Any advice out there about running tubeless on a road bike. My rims are tubeless ready so conversion is simple, my question is - Is it worth it? HiBeen running Tubeless for 3 years and love it. Not a single puncture to date.Don't even carry spares or pump. Awesome!!!Do a have a bit of Stans in each wheel, but no known punctures as yet. I have Dura Ace C24 Tubeless with Schwalbe One 23mm and now One Pro tyres in 25mm Can't believe there is not more take up....
Thomo Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 I'm still in the trial phase so not completely sold on the idea just yet.When they work, tubeless seems to be the next best thing.I had issues with them holding air initially - still not sure whether that was a tyre or rim issue.Running tubeless on a set of Argents now and so far so good.Punctures may not seal instantly at such high pressures and depending on severity of puncture, but should seal with sufficient air to complete a ride.My trial continues...
Thomo Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 The tyres mote expensive than regular ones?Anything between 600 - 1200.So a bit more expensive on average, and local choice is still a bit limited.
Iwan Kemp Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Running American Classic Argent wheels and Spez Roubaix tyres as a tubeless combo. Its been a revelation.
carbon29er Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Will be watching this with keen interest as I would like to hear some opinions on this. Afaik one of the main problems with this is sealant reliability at the very high pressures run on road bike tyres I'm still in the trial phase so not completely sold on the idea just yet.When they work, tubeless seems to be the next best thing.I had issues with them holding air initially - still not sure whether that was a tyre or rim issue.Running tubeless on a set of Argents now and so far so good.Punctures may not seal instantly at such high pressures and depending on severity of puncture, but should seal with sufficient air to complete a ride.My trial continues...The pressure thing is a fallacy. Tyres seal with no problems and, by design, tubeless can run far lower pressure than tubed clinchers. On Sunday evening I removed my camera from the rear of the bike and found it a bit dirty. Dirt was sealant. Entire rear of the bike had a layer of sealant. Checked the tyre, found where a piece of glass had penetrated the tyre and had been sealed by the GEAX sealant. Checked pressure, still 80 psi from a pumped pressure of 100 psi on Saturday morning and 130km prior. No idea when the tyre fixed itself but it was some time in those 130km. Pumped back to 100 psi and did 60km on Monday. This set of Schwalbe One, not Pro version, have done 4,646.6km. I'll swap to Pro One next puncture as that is an indicator tyre is worn. If that is not an advert for tubeless I'll stop riding.
06rush Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 I assume that your rims need to be specifically tubeless specific - and that there aren't reliable/safe methods to convert conventional rims to a tubeless spec. So the change is a relatively expensive one. Just bought a set of Scirocco 35s which aren't tubeless, so was just wondering...
Thomo Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 The pressure thing is a fallacy. Tyres seal with no problems and, by design, tubeless can run far lower pressure than tubed clinchers. Apologies for referring to high pressure. What I meant was merely expect pressure loss @ high pressure before sealing completely.I haven't actually checked pressures subsequent to air loss, but I'd guess loss to be between 20-40 psi starting @ 100/110.Leaving you enough pressure to continue riding. I have found re-inflating to 100 can be a problem with seal not always holding.?Hole too big, or Stans not the right sealant.?
carbon29er Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Stans is a bit iffy. It dries quickest so needs to be filled up most often. And it seems a bit thin. I've had better results all round with GEAX.
lechatnoir Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Stans is a bit iffy. It dries quickest so needs to be filled up most often. And it seems a bit thin. I've had better results all round with GEAX. Not seen GEAX around. Where can it be had?
Dexter-morgan Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 I assume that your rims need to be specifically tubeless specific - and that there aren't reliable/safe methods to convert conventional rims to a tubeless spec. So the change is a relatively expensive one. Just bought a set of Scirocco 35s which aren't tubeless, so was just wondering...I was going to ask the same question.
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