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Internal cable routing noise


Procal1979

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Okay I found some foam rubber extrusion hose at HRC Industries in Pretoria West. The guy was nice enough to give me a 2 meter piece for free. I think it cost something like R13/meter. It is basically that rubber seal strip on the inside of your car door except this one is more like a hose. I will install it during the week at the local bike shop because the will need to bleed the brake fluid. Hope this will solve it!!

 

Its a Trek Procaliber 9.9

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Splitting it along its length and taping it back together will also work if you don't feel like disconnecting brakes...

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Not sure how you going to get the tube or foam into the frame through the small hole... maybe you mean from the bottom not the top?

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I've had great success with A/C pipe insulation. I chose a length with 9mm diameter inner size, & roughly the same length as the down tube. This takes three cables/hoses very neatly and has 100% solved the cable noise in my carbon frame. 

 

The procedure I followed was:

1) push all cables/hoses into the frame through their cable entry ports.

2) pull all three out the bottom of the head tube (after removing fork!)

3) slide the foam tube over the end of all three cables, and then push it down into the downtube, all the way to the BB.

4) poke all cables back into the frame through the head tube, and then fish them out their respective entry ports.

5) I had to disconnect rear break, shifter and dropper in order to insert the foam tube, which was quite a job. But now that the tube is securely inside the frame, I will not have to do that again. If I need to replace a hose/cable in the future, I can just use the existing one to draw the new one through.

 

 

post-82641-0-60705800-1494421995_thumb.jpg

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Well done t3ddy and thanks for the photo. I was not aware that the downtube was accessible through the head tube.

 

Also, your photo confirms the cables (for derailleurs) are inside housing throughout, correct? I mean to say, they are not running open (coz then they will be stretched and not dangling around anyway).

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Well done t3ddy and thanks for the photo. I was not aware that the downtube was accessible through the head tube.

 

Also, your photo confirms the cables (for derailleurs) are inside housing throughout, correct? I mean to say, they are not running open (coz then they will be stretched and not dangling around anyway).

Thanks, been waiting to share this! ;-)

The bike originally came with derailleur cable open inside the frame (to reduce cable noise I guess). I removed the cable stops on the entry and exit points, and fitted a new gear cable with conventional outer. Just thought it will be easier for future maintenance, now that the foam tube is in there. Also, with the cable stretched tight inside the frame between the stops, this would have got in the way of getting the foam tube right down to the BB... I'll be honest, it wasn't the easiest job, but well worth it in the end with zero cable rattle.

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  • 8 months later...

okay so my new bike suffers from insane cable rattle ( 3 cables in down tube )

 

now i got this out of my old frame ( been old its pipe insulation) OD 11mm ID 6mm , very soft foam 

 

I covered my brake hose before the weekend and it already made A significant difference but I'd like to cover the other two as well , except I can't find anywhere  :cursing:

 

been to A pneumatics , pool , hydraulics , hardware and plumbing shop no dice 

 

 

Theres a company in Joburg that very well may have but its like 60km form me and I would realy like to avoid driving 120km for something that costs R25/m max.

 

Any suggestions for Centurion/pretoria are that I can try 

 

 

I've already tried the HRC place previously mentioned in the thread and they can't help 

post-46013-0-28387300-1517843576_thumb.jpg

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okay so my new bike suffers from insane cable rattle ( 3 cables in down tube )

 

now i got this out of my old frame ( been old its pipe insulation) OD 11mm ID 6mm , very soft foam 

 

I covered my brake hose before the weekend and it already made A significant difference but I'd like to cover the other two as well , except I can't find anywhere  :cursing:

 

been to A pneumatics , pool , hydraulics , hardware and plumbing shop no dice 

 

 

Theres a company in Joburg that very well may have but its like 60km form me and I would realy like to avoid driving 120km for something that costs R25/m max.

 

Any suggestions for Centurion/pretoria are that I can try 

 

 

I've already tried the HRC place previously mentioned in the thread and they can't help 

Aircon pipe insulation, similar to foam grip material just different size.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 years later...

Get some soft plastic tubing from local hardware store, or pet shop that supplies tubing for fish tanks. If you don't want to remove cables, first slit tube in it's length and feed it into the frame over the cable, taping it with insulation tape every 100mm or so. Works perfectly. Had the same problem with my Trance, nearly drove me crazy.

 

On my first ride with my new bike, the noise from the internal cable rattling almost gave me a heart attack, but I will give this a go.

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On my first ride with my new bike, the noise from the internal cable rattling almost gave me a heart attack, but I will give this a go.

Hope it works for you, rode my bike for 5yrs with no cable rattle and it was a cheap solution.

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  • 1 year later...

I know this is an old thread but I just saw a great hack on YouTube so it’s not my idea. 
simply snip off the tip of a NERF dart. Then cut it lengthways. 
Undo your cable plus/ports. Put the the foam sleeve around the cable and secure with a bit of sticky tape. Slide as many as you want/need up the tube.

NERF darts are cheap and easy to purchase. Takealot and toyshops stock them.

Link to video

 

 

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Is there actually any engineering benefit to internal cable routing? We all know it looks great, I won’t argue, I love the clean look, but I have never quite understood what the reasoning was behind it suddenly becoming the norm.

I have lucky not had issues with any of my internal routing bikes yet, and I despise a noisy bike, so hope it stays that way, but it just seems like it’s a whole lot of trouble, with no real benefit. Or am I missing something? External cables and hoses worked perfectly fine, and are a damn side easier to service and replace when the time comes…

besides, it’s only a matter of time till the figure out wireless disk brakes too…. Then we can stop worrying about cables completely…. ???? 

Edited by AllTerrain
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This might be the build-a-bike equivalent to shaving your legs. i.e. it doesn't matter if there's an advantage, but you'll feel really left out if you don't.

Internal routing through the headset is still a bridge too far for me though. I'd be concerned about the cable tension/resistance interfering with the neutral position on my steering. 

What would be the standard operating procedure when you're descending some hill and the red light goes on for your wireless brakes :D

Edited by 100Tours
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12 minutes ago, AllTerrain said:

 

besides, it’s only a matter of time till the figure out wireless disk brakes too…. 

There's already a patent filing from Shimano on that.

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1 hour ago, 100Tours said:

What would be the standard operating procedure when you're descending some hill and the red light goes on for your wireless brakes :D

Well if anyone attempts the Karoo to Coast on a bike with wireless brakes they are going to find themselves in a heap of trouble sooner rather than later if battery life is a problem. There are quite a few spots where suddenly needing brakes that are nowhere to be found will likely result in evacuation by helicopter.

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I think it will be long time before wireless brakes become mainstream. Patents pending or not. It hasn’t happened in cars where pretty much everything else has been fly by wire for years already, including steering… brakes are just too much of a critical safety item. People won’t easily adopt the tech. Even electric trailer brake controllers used on big caravans and trailers are still mechanically actuated on the trailer, and if the electrics fail, the brakes will still work, just not as well, similar to a vacuum boost failure on your cars breaks. 
 

the electric wireless brakes I’m sure would fail to lock up scenario, not a freewheel scenario, like interlink trailers do when they lose air pressure. So there would be some safety net….

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