Jump to content

Worth trying to repair NEW Gatorskins?


peetwindhoek

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bin it, or try for a warranty. Either way I would not risk my skin for that.

 

On the MTB on the other hand I have repaired a cut like that, it was a bit higher up the sidewall tho. Dental floss and a patch on the inside and it is still going after about 700km.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Looks likely could have been inflated without being properly on the rim - hanging over the edge in a spot - just speculation but I have managed to do something similar before - One hole and one weak looking spot... major brain fart on my part.

 

New tire is the next step.

 

Never thought of this, would it have been visible if not seeded correctly?

Posted

Firstly kudos to you for not starting a “I need back up to social media bully some shop into giving me a new tyre” thread

 

But take it back to your shop, if for some reason they replace it, that’s a bonus and be sure to come bmbrag about them.

 

If they don’t, it’s not worth the risk of riding on a repair that could blow at 60kph, not all blowouts happen as you are stopping unfortunately.

 

I googled but could not figure out what this is?

Posted

If you're running 25c (if not, why not), you should experiment with lower pressures as they're faster as they produce less deflection (axle going up and down because of bumps). Sure, if you ride over a monster cat-eye @ 60kmh, you're asking for trouble. I find lower pressures kinder to my back and bum. I'm running 28c and 60psi front, 65psi rear (larger air volume = better pneumatic effect). Not planning on bunnyhopping a pavement though...

As you mention, play around. Felt a bit squishy but tried at 7.5 on 23c on recommendation from LBS, had numerous punctures and snake bites. Used to be a time i had at least 1 tube issue a week. Split between 2 road bikes doing about 8000km I only had 1 last year and the roads with potholes, glass etc were far worse. 

Posted

Also check that your brake pads are aligned properly and do not touch the tire when you break.  I had something similar before and only realized after a few times that the brake pads were basically cutting the wheel.

Posted

Also check that your brake pads are aligned properly and do not touch the tire when you break.  I had something similar before and only realized after a few times that the brake pads were basically cutting the wheel.

This seems to be a possible scenario, guess what I am checking tonight first thing!

Posted

Exact same thing happened to me with brand new GP4000S IIs. Took it back to CWC for a claim, Conti claimed under-inflation. So chuck it, move on to another brand. 

 

Note - my Gators are lasting me well, I try very hard not to run it below 6 bar, but it's a hard ride. 

Posted

Patch it with patch and solution and then follow up with two layers duct tape over the patch and you good to go for plenty more kilo meters. That is only after an unsuccessful warranty claim. Rather have it at the back than the front. 

Posted

Please don't repair these tires despite what some people are saying. Bin them. You could repair it, the result may or not be successful. Do you really what to find out by testing it at high speed?

 

Vittoria tires are R150 at Chris Willemse, buy a whole lot of these, they work great for training and if there is any damage, just put a new one on.

 

MTB tires are inflated to two bar or less in pressure, if the MTB tire fails it does not deflate in less than 1 second. It may be possible to rescue a good MTB tire with a cut, based on what people are saying.

Posted

Patch it with patch and solution and then follow up with two layers duct tape over the patch and you good to go for plenty more kilo meters. That is only after an unsuccessful warranty claim. Rather have it at the back than the front. 

 

I Wouldn't chance that unless it's a get-home temp fix.

Posted

Come to think of it, if you compare the 2 sides, it looks like the side with the hole in has some separation between the bead and the rest of the carcass. The other side looks different.

Posted

Never thought of this, would it have been visible if not seeded correctly?

You would think so - but sometimes.....  especially when in a hurry, it can be easy to miss

Posted

Patch it with patch and solution and then follow up with two layers duct tape over the patch and you good to go for plenty more kilo meters. That is only after an unsuccessful warranty claim. Rather have it at the back than the front. 

*and he appears like Candyman.

Posted

You would think so - but sometimes.....  especially when in a hurry, it can be easy to miss

 

And can do this when going over the first speed-bump.

post-78401-0-96410100-1516608678_thumb.jpg

 

You need to make sure they seat properly.

Posted

After sending the images to the shop they quickly responded and said I must bring it in and they will check with the supplier. 

 

Also check that your brake pads are aligned properly and do not touch the tire when you break.  I had something similar before and only realized after a few times that the brake pads were basically cutting the wheel.

 

Went home and checked this first... Meh, felt like an idiot. The brake pad is indeed touching the tire! *facepalm*

 

*expletives* follows

 

That is why it blew when slowing down. I threw it, very reluctantly I might add, into the bin.

 

Thank you for all the responses

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout