Perfect mtb

[PeterF]

Not too many bikes with the handlebars at the same height as the saddle.  But I did find something close.......

 

[Slabeye]

Not too many bikes with the handlebars at the same height as the saddle. But I did find something close.......

 

penny.jpg

Lol

[Grease_Monkey]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I took the whole saddle the same height as handlebar comment as a comfort thing. Thus my reccommendation of a trail bike rather than something like am XC bike (saddle high, bars low), or Enduro (bars high, saddle lower).

 

Anyway, most likely if set up right your saddle will be slightly higher than your bars, especially if you have long legs. It can look very uncomfortable if you are new to cycling (lots of my non cycling friends have asked me why my bars are lower than my saddle), but that is how it's supossed to be (in most cases anyway).

[Traveler]

Thought this thread would open a larger can of worms.

 

I cannot disagree with much said here.

 

Have you considered the Merida ONE-TWENTY 6000?

 

https://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bikes/full-suspension/trail/2018/one-twenty-6000-9094.html

 

When you go and ride bikes, test a 27.5Plus also, the 27.5x2.8 tyres are equal in size to a 29er, offers amazing levels of grip. And you can also swop out the wheels for 29er’s if you want long distance efficiency.

[Slabeye]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I took the whole saddle the same height as handlebar comment as a comfort thing. Thus my reccommendation of a trail bike rather than something like am XC bike (saddle high, bars low), or Enduro (bars high, saddle lower).

 

Anyway, most likely if set up right your saddle will be slightly higher than your bars, especially if you have long legs. It can look very uncomfortable if you are new to cycling (lots of my non cycling friends have asked me why my bars are lower than my saddle), but that is how it's supossed to be (in most cases anyway).

My fingers get numb, so I have to exercise them during ride to get the blood back. I think it might be because my seat is higher than my hands, but my core might have a bit to do with it

[Traveler]

Partly because of your hand position as your shoulders shrug up. As your shoulders shrug your hands go into an uncomfortable position, this does lead towards more discomfort and pain.

 

Getting the reach right on your bike, as well as a stronger core as you mentioned is essential. If you are riding and need to “push” of the bars ro get into a upright seated position the bars are at the incorrect reach.

[Slabeye]

Partly because of your hand position as your shoulders shrug up. As your shoulders shrug your hands go into an uncomfortable position, this does lead towards more discomfort and pain.

 

Getting the reach right on your bike, as well as a stronger core as you mentioned is essential. If you are riding and need to “push” of the bars ro get into a upright seated position the bars are at the incorrect reach.

Thanks

I think I need to get the bike fit in a less excited mood, so it's done right and I'm not rushing them so I can get the bike home

[porqui]

Thanks

I think I need to get the bike fit in a less excited mood, so it's done right and I'm not rushing them so I can get the bike home

 

There is plenty to read on bike setup on the www and youtube.

Just a slight change in setup can make a huge difference.

[Grease_Monkey]

My fingers get numb, so I have to exercise them during ride to get the blood back. I think it might be because my seat is higher than my hands, but my core might have a bit to do with it

Like others have mentioned it's all about setup. I have spent 12 hours straight on my XC bike where my seat is much higher than my bars without my hands going numb, and I have spent an hour on my trail bike where bars and seat are the same height where my hands went numb - all because setup was right on the one and wrong on the other. Factors like bar roll grips, reach, stack height, and lots of others play a role here - not just handlebar/seat height.

 

Edit: spelling

[Gnarly]

What about a Vipa Trail, can buy just the frame or complete bike. 

[PhilipV]

Like others have mentioned it's all about setup. I have spent 12 hours straight on my XC bike where my seat is much higher than my bars without my hands going numb, and I have spent an hour on my trail bike where bars and seat are the same height where my hands went numb - all because setup was right on the one and wrong on the other. Factors like bar roll grips, reach, stack height, and lots of others play a role here - not just handlebar/seat height.

 

Edit: spelling

I used to get numb hands when I rode silicon grips. Even the chunky grips didn't help. Now I ride dat grips (ODI chunky)

 

OP, I reckon a 120/120mm bike is a great do it all. And most of the bikes in that class will offer you a good time. If you are not going to be pushing the envelope the finer nuances between them won't hamper you as much.

Some suggestions:

Fit a dropper seatpost, the weight penalty is minor compared to the added confidence of a saddle that's out of the way when having fun.

Do a drivetrain replacement costing on the GX groupset compared to say an XT/SLX group. The 12spd cassettes had an eye watering price the last time I checked. It Sommer cured my upgrade itch.

The XT Brakes are great, but I reckon the slx are so close that I couldn't feel a performance difference. I think bigger rotors make more of a difference.

The Formula Cura brakes that come specced on a lot of bikes nowadays are amazing. I won't swap them out for shimano if I bought a bike now.

 

Strengthen your core muscles. Not because of numb hands, but because it affects mobility in everything we do, and almost all of us have weak cores due to our work and lifestyles.

 

Ps: I'm also a dad, and also have a career, don't let them prevent you from riding anything. I reckon investing some time with a skills coach will pay more dividends than you think over the long run. Just do it.

[Traveler]

I used to get numb hands when I rode silicon grips. Even the chunky grips didn't help. Now I ride dat grips (ODI chunky)

OP, I reckon a 120/120mm bike is a great do it all. And most of the bikes in that class will offer you a good time. If you are not going to be pushing the envelope the finer nuances between them won't hamper you as much.

Some suggestions:

Fit a dropper seatpost, the weight penalty is minor compared to the added confidence of a saddle that's out of the way when having fun.

Do a drivetrain replacement costing on the GX groupset compared to say an XT/SLX group. The 12spd cassettes had an eye watering price the last time I checked. It Sommer cured my upgrade itch.

The XT Brakes are great, but I reckon the slx are so close that I couldn't feel a performance difference. I think bigger rotors make more of a difference.

The Formula Cura brakes that come specced on a lot of bikes nowadays are amazing. I won't swap them out for shimano if I bought a bike now.

Strengthen your core muscles. Not because of numb hands, but because it affects mobility in everything we do, and almost all of us have weak cores due to our work and lifestyles.

Ps: I'm also a dad, and also have a career, don't let them prevent you from riding anything. I reckon investing some time with a skills coach will pay more dividends than you think over the long run. Just do it.

 

GX 12-spd cassette to replace at R2,200 and XT 11-spd cassette to replace at R1,700 on Evobikes.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

GX 12-spd cassette to replace at R2,200 and XT 11-spd cassette to replace at R1,700 on Evobikes.

And sunrace 11 sp at 1200 or less everywhere. I'd FAR rather have the sunrace. It's exactly the same as the BOX cassette (literally the exact same item) and has better gear spacing.

[NotSoBigBen]

And sunrace 11 sp at 1200 or less everywhere. I'd FAR rather have the sunrace. It's exactly the same as the BOX cassette (literally the exact same item) and has better gear spacing.

I agree with our Captain, I use 11sp and 12sp Sunrace cassettes (11-50) with no issues and they seem to be wearing pretty well!

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

[Goodbadugly]

I agree with our Captain, I use 11sp and 12sp Sunrace cassettes (11-50) with no issues and they seem to be wearing pretty well!

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

So do I

Just a matter of time before the big Shimano and Sram start to price their products more competitively.

[Traveler]

And sunrace 11 sp at 1200 or less everywhere. I'd FAR rather have the sunrace. It's exactly the same as the BOX cassette (literally the exact same item) and has better gear spacing.

The point Myles was to address the general myth which is regularly perpetuated here on the hub that Eagle Cassettes have to be financed because of their price; but if you opt for GX the price difference between a GX Eagle and XT 11spd is negligable. I will agree that the XX Eagle will make you gasp for air.... as an XTR 11spd will also make your eyes teary. Should we include the 9-46 E Thirteen?

 

On the Sunrace/Box you are so correct, and look at the stupid price difference. And again agree that the spacing between gears are well thought out, and the 11-46 Sunrace has much better spacing than a comparative XT or SLX 11-46, particularly at the top of the cassette. It does say a lot about the fact that Merida was the first large manufacturer to pair Sunrace Cassettes with Shimano and SRAM running gear.

 

I have had a Sunrace 11-46 on my Pyga for more than a year matched with GX and worked a charm, and I’d say it remains the best value for money cassette - you won’t find me snickering at a Sunrace cassette. They actually have a much larger range of products than just their innovative cassettes.

 

But if I have to compare the 11-46 Sunrace with GX Eagle on my Cannondale I love the 10-50 spread and the 10t gave me those extra couple of km/h that I needed to stay with the 2x11 crowd on the flats.

 

Like I’ve said before..... 1x11/12 is not the thing for everyone, and you need to research well before you you choose your drivetrain.