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Wahoo kicker first impression


guylrc

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I just want to add on the debate particularly with connection problems.

 

I have the kickr 3. My setup is in my network office. ant+ connection to a desktop with Garmin ant+ dongle. I use a Garmin Tri hr belt and old Garmin gsc10 cadence sensor.

 

This all links to zwift where I do my interval training. I would get intermittent connection loss to the kickr where power dropped to 0 in zwift. Yet, cadence and hr still reading in zwift.

 

I would also link to an Edge 820 to log the workout to Garmin Connect which uploads to Discovery for my points. The zwift to Garmin Connect does not load into Discovery.

 

And to top it off, my telkom lte router is in this office. So there is alot of signals flying around in the room

 

I update kickr firmware last week. And then zwift is a nightmare. Power drops every 20 to 30 seconds.

 

Turns out after contacting both zwift and kickr support that the 2.4ghz wifi frequency interferes with the ant+ connection to the power meter. I've switched it off, stopped logging to the edge, only connecting edge to hr for Discovery points.

 

Not once did the signal drop for my last 2 interval training sessions.

 

Keep the above in mind. If you getting power dropoffs

 

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk

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Yes I think the kickr 3 is the problem with Bluetooth as your feedback is consistent with what I am hearing with kickr2

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I update kickr firmware last week. And then zwift is a nightmare. Power drops every 20 to 30 seconds.

 

Turns out after contacting both zwift and kickr support that the 2.4ghz wifi frequency interferes with the ant+ connection to the power meter. I've switched it off, stopped logging to the edge, only connecting edge to hr for Discovery points.

 

Not once did the signal drop for my last 2 interval training sessions.

 

That's very interesting, but I can't beleive that is true.

 

With my indoor setup, I have an apple Tv running Zwift. My Cycleops Hammer connects directly to the apple tv via bluetooth. I then have a 4iiii Viiiiva heart rate strap acting as a bridge for my garmin cadence sensor (ANT+). The apple tv connects to my home network via wifi. I also have my Fenix 3 connected to the cadence sensor and Hammer via ANT+ for Vitality points.

 

I also have my phone connected via bluetooth to my hifi.

 

So I have 2,4ghz wifi, bluetooth and ANT+ connections all running at the same time and have never had a problem.

 

Sounds like their may be an issue with the bluetooth on the latest Kickr? 

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Just adding to this...

Setup: Garmin Edge 520 with ant+ connections to Wahoo HR, Duotrap cadence and KickR power sensors

KickR 2 talking bluetooth to the iPhone 7 to control the power with TrainerRoad, Same Wahoo HR but BT, same Duotrap cadence but BT.

 

One thing I noticed was constant power dips, this was because i had both the Garmin 520 and TrainerRoad on the iPhone linked up to control the power on the KickR.

As soon as i disabled the Power controller sensor on the Garmin and left TrainerRoad to control it, there were no more power dips.

The Garmin still has the KickR as a power sensor for recording power but not the power controlling sensor (they different).

 

Also read the articles about wifi interference when trying to troubleshoot and went through many settings on the wifi router but nothing worked, until disabling that sensor on the Garmin.

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That's very interesting, but I can't beleive that is true.

 

With my indoor setup, I have an apple Tv running Zwift. My Cycleops Hammer connects directly to the apple tv via bluetooth. I then have a 4iiii Viiiiva heart rate strap acting as a bridge for my garmin cadence sensor (ANT+). The apple tv connects to my home network via wifi. I also have my Fenix 3 connected to the cadence sensor and Hammer via ANT+ for Vitality points.

 

I also have my phone connected via bluetooth to my hifi.

 

So I have 2,4ghz wifi, bluetooth and ANT+ connections all running at the same time and have never had a problem.

 

Sounds like their may be an issue with the bluetooth on the latest Kickr?

One important thing in my setup. I was connecting the kickr on ant+ to zwift. Same with cadence and hr to the same ant+ dongle.

 

It seems that only the ant+ signal to the kickr interfered with the wifi. It's on one of the wahoo wiki troubleshooting guides. The cadence and hr were perfect. See pic.

 

Switched off wifi in the room. Problem solved.

 

My phone connection to wifi in adjacent room and Bluetooth to headphones are not a problem. b0f75d7062effde265f7469dedb0f5f5.jpg

 

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk

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As soon as i disabled the Power controller sensor on the Garmin and left TrainerRoad to control it, there were no more power dips.

The Garmin still has the KickR as a power sensor for recording power but not the power controlling sensor (they different).

How do you do that. I want to try it.

 

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk

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How do you do that. I want to try it.

 

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Would have to check when I get home, can't recall off hand, but i think as a sensor, the KickR is still there but in the Indoor Trainer options on the Garmin, it's disabled.

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My setup is the Snap 2, Samsung A3 with TrainerRoad, Fenix 3 HR broadcast and Wahoo cadence sensor. 

 

My Snap will only connect using Ant+, and somehow sometimes does not even work (even after removing all interference, resetting all devices, etc). Sometimes, the power readings will even drop mid ride. I absolutely hate the fact that I have to now buy an overpriced mobile device to connect to the the unit, or lug around my laptop and Ant+ dongle. 

 

In addition to that, my power numbers are way, way off. When I first set up my Snap, I couldn't finish a workout on ERG mode with a few intervals at FTP it was so difficult. Now, two weeks later, my FTP is about 30 watts higher. But, last night I did a session with intervals at higher than FTP (IF of 0.93 according to power readings) and I came off the bike fresh and HR never went into Z5 once. 

 

Wahoo's product teams should really test with more devices, and give us a longer list of compatible devices, and some more guidance. The Wahoo app is also pretty terribad. Why can't I create my own workouts in the app? Why are there a number of different apps? Instead, I have to pay for third party apps to fully experience my trainer. I don't need a training plan, as I have a triathlon specific plan. 

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Thanks for the offer, have now bought an ANT from local bike shop and will send the Takelot item back when it eventually arrives

 

If you're vaguely interested, PM me and I can lend you my Ant+ dongle for a few days to test with your desktop.

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One important thing in my setup. I was connecting the kickr on ant+ to zwift. Same with cadence and hr to the same ant+ dongle.

 

It seems that only the ant+ signal to the kickr interfered with the wifi. It's on one of the wahoo wiki troubleshooting guides. The cadence and hr were perfect. See pic.

 

Switched off wifi in the room. Problem solved.

 

My phone connection to wifi in adjacent room and Bluetooth to headphones are not a problem. b0f75d7062effde265f7469dedb0f5f5.jpg

 

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

How does Zwift work if you turn off the wifi? I guess you might have a direct cable to the wifi, I don't so I hope the Ant+ won't be effected by the wifi signal, that is all I need

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Thanks for all the input. The process as I can see is not as simply as I thought and now I hear of some of you having issues with interference with Ant as well I am worried. I have however ordered another Ant unit from the local bike shop (Takealot order will be sent back as they dont allow you to cancel orders - not for this forum!) and will test out to see whether I can actually do a controlled reasonable accurate interval session. I will also try the test program that Shaun from Wahoo has exampled will let me know if my unit has a fault. I do want to ensure the correct information is given so will update this thread when i have done this.

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My setup is the Snap 2, Samsung A3 with TrainerRoad, Fenix 3 HR broadcast and Wahoo cadence sensor. 

 

My Snap will only connect using Ant+, and somehow sometimes does not even work (even after removing all interference, resetting all devices, etc). Sometimes, the power readings will even drop mid ride. I absolutely hate the fact that I have to now buy an overpriced mobile device to connect to the the unit, or lug around my laptop and Ant+ dongle. 

 

In addition to that, my power numbers are way, way off. When I first set up my Snap, I couldn't finish a workout on ERG mode with a few intervals at FTP it was so difficult. Now, two weeks later, my FTP is about 30 watts higher. But, last night I did a session with intervals at higher than FTP (IF of 0.93 according to power readings) and I came off the bike fresh and HR never went into Z5 once. 

 

Wahoo's product teams should really test with more devices, and give us a longer list of compatible devices, and some more guidance. The Wahoo app is also pretty terribad. Why can't I create my own workouts in the app? Why are there a number of different apps? Instead, I have to pay for third party apps to fully experience my trainer. I don't need a training plan, as I have a triathlon specific plan. 

Power meters will aways have different power readings..just have a look at mine on the attachment - same heartrate reading but different power numbers.

post-68257-0-57802600-1528373973_thumb.jpeg

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Remember that the power reading from a trainer will not be accurate until the device has warmed up. You should perform a calibration / spin-down after spinning on it for 20+ minutes.

 

I you are going to do something like a FTP test then you first do your warm up intervals. Calibrate the trainer and power meter (if you have one) and then do your FTP test.

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Power meters will aways have different power readings..just have a look at mine on the attachment - same heartrate reading but different power numbers.

 

what two power meters were used?

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Power meters will aways have different power readings..just have a look at mine on the attachment - same heartrate reading but different power numbers.

 

They shouldn't have different readings.

 

My quarq and Hammer differ by less than 5 watts.

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Would have to check when I get home, can't recall off hand, but i think as a sensor, the KickR is still there but in the Indoor Trainer options on the Garmin, it's disabled.

 

If it is the same as the Hammer, the Garmin shows it as two separate connected devices, one is type "power meter" and one is type "indoor trainer". Just disable the "indoor trainer" one.

 

They shouldn't have different readings.

 

My quarq and Hammer differ by less than 5 watts.

 

Depends on the power meters. If you have a pedal power meter and a wheel-on trainer with a power meter, you should get fairly different readings (the pedals should read higher) because of all the possible losses in the system between where the power is measured (BB bearing friction, drivetrain friction, hub bearing friction, tyre-trainer interface friction/slippage etc.)

Edited by Jehosefat
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