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Sunrace 12spd VS NX eagle


Butterbean

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Posted

I must say, im looking at getting the Sunrace setup, as its cheap and Sunrace is on the market for years on end. WOuld like to hear how its going after a week, 2 weeks and so forth.

 

The front blade dilemma, is a bit each to their own. 

 

Why do u want top end? How fast do u want to go on top end? 

 

I have a 34 oval on my bike, 1 x 11, with the Sunrace 10-46 on, and it works great for me. Even if im going 50, im going to stay on 34. Im doing 34km/h avg on that gearing easy, and even can do a 45km/h on flats. Yes flats u can go higher and spin, but how many flats are there really, depending on where you ride. 

Depends on your riding style, where you ride, what you ride etc. Test all and choose the best option

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Posted

Huh?

 

2 teeth doesn't change the ratio?

 

0.739 vs 0.72.

 

0.019 difference is negligible

So why does it make such a difference to go from 34T chainring to a 32T?

 

Espcially for climbing. I can not climb a certain steep section on my 34 but put the 32 on and there I go

Posted

I must say, im looking at getting the Sunrace setup, as its cheap and Sunrace is on the market for years on end. WOuld like to hear how its going after a week, 2 weeks and so forth.

 

The front blade dilemma, is a bit each to their own. 

 

Why do u want top end? How fast do u want to go on top end? 

 

I have a 34 oval on my bike, 1 x 11, with the Sunrace 10-46 on, and it works great for me. Even if im going 50, im going to stay on 34. Im doing 34km/h avg on that gearing easy, and even can do a 45km/h on flats. Yes flats u can go higher and spin, but how many flats are there really, depending on where you ride. 

Depends on your riding style, where you ride, what you ride etc. Test all and choose the best option

Glad you addressed this....I dont understand people saying the 10 from SRAM is better than another cassette using an 11. In RPM the difference is 9rpm on the 11 to stay with someone on a 10.

 

Now here is the other thing...when I am in a MTB ride / race MOST people around me run an 11-46 or 11-50 setup and 32T up front...so why would I need a 10? To try and ride of the front of the group? 

 

I would rather sit in the group on the flats......and as was said how many races are out there (MTB races) where I need to go at a speed higher than 36kmh

Posted

Glad you addressed this....I dont understand people saying the 10 from SRAM is better than another cassette using an 11. In RPM the difference is 9rpm on the 11 to stay with someone on a 10.

 

9rpm is a considerable difference when you're talking cadence. Going from 90 cadence, for example, to 99 is a big jump.

Posted

So why does it make such a difference to go from 34T chainring to a 32T?

 

Espcially for climbing. I can not climb a certain steep section on my 34 but put the 32 on and there I go

Are you joking?

 

We are talking about 32-46 vs 34-50

 

The rear cassette has changed? but the ratio stays almost identical?

 

If you leave the same cassette on then obviously the ratio's would change.

 

This is the crux of that entire discussion. Running a bigger chainring on the front so you have more top end speed 32-11 vs 34-11 BUT still having the same bail out granny gear.

 

Are you trolling? I honestly can't tell.

Posted

Well you don't necessarily have more top speed. You need more power to produce that extra speed. The gearing just enables the conversion of leg strength into forward motion. Gearing should be appropriate for the power you produce

Posted

Well you don't necessarily have more top speed. You need more power to produce that extra speed. The gearing just enables the conversion of leg strength into forward motion. Gearing should be appropriate for the power you produce

But that's not at all the discussion... If someone has started they are spinning out, clearly they will have the legs to go faster!

 

These are bicycles, not motorbikes... Leg power is assumed.

Posted

Are you joking?

 

We are talking about 32-46 vs 34-50

 

The rear cassette has changed? but the ratio stays almost identical?

 

If you leave the same cassette on then obviously the ratio's would change.

 

This is the crux of that entire discussion. Running a bigger chainring on the front so you have more top end speed 32-11 vs 34-11 BUT still having the same bail out granny gear.

 

Are you trolling? I honestly can't tell.

I think I missunderstood you somewhere.... I missed the bold part....appologies

Posted

Well you don't necessarily have more top speed. You need more power to produce that extra speed. The gearing just enables the conversion of leg strength into forward motion. Gearing should be appropriate for the power you produce

You're just saying words here bro... You are 'right', but you're just arguing for the sake of arguing.

Posted

I think I missunderstood you somewhere.... I missed the bold part....appologies

hahahahaha all good.

 

I honestly didn't know if you were trolling my socks off! 

 

Glad we are now on the same page!

Posted

Looking at the numbers I would say that the 32 x 11-50 can do everything

 

For climbing I want a ratio that will give me lowest speed at 90rpm

 
@90rpm 
32 x 50 = 7.9 kph < This one
34 x 50 = 8.4 kph <<<A bit of a jump 0.5 kph or cadence will have to drop by 5 which tells me it is going to require more bigger muscles.
32 x 46 = 8.5 kph
34 x 46 = 9.1 kph
 
For top end I will then choose  32 x 11 as I dont mind the extra RPM 
 
@90rpm 32 x 11 = 35.7 kph
 
@90rpm 34 x 11 = 38.0 kph
@93rpm 34 x 11 = 39.2 kph
 
@90rpm 32 x 10 = 39.3 kph
@99rpm 32 x 11 = 39.3 kph < This one
 
@105rpm 32 x 11 = 41.7 kph
@90rpm 34 x 10 = 41.8 kph
 
Posted

But that's not at all the discussion... If someone has started they are spinning out, clearly they will have the legs to go faster!

 

These are bicycles, not motorbikes... Leg power is assumed.

 

 

spinning out doesn't necessarily mean you have ability to produce more power. Are you spinning out on a descent? If so then what top speed do you want to achieve before you max out on efficient rpm? ( too high a pedalling cadence can also lead to fatigue. So wha cadence range do you want to be able to go faster? and on what gradient?

 

Or is this happening on the flats (respect!!)

 

or on the climbs (huge respect!!!)

Posted

spinning out doesn't necessarily mean you have ability to produce more power. Are you spinning out on a descent? If so then what top speed do you want to achieve before you max out on efficient rpm? ( too high a pedalling cadence can also lead to fatigue. So wha cadence range do you want to be able to go faster? and on what gradient?

 

Or is this happening on the flats (respect!!)

 

or on the climbs (huge respect!!!)

 

Think some of the previous posts miss this part ....

 

 

We mostly drive to the Durbanville hills trails in the car, then ride the trails.  Each time we see MANY MTB's on the tar road, heading out to the trails.  Both there and back you encounter long tar down hill sections ....

 

On some sections it is even safe to exceed 40km/h .... but hardly any fun at 100rpm .....

 

 

Then you get to the trails and need a LOW gear for the likes of Dorstberg .....

 

 

No wonder there is such a market for a 1x12 .....

 

 

ON a trail only .... 1x11 would certainly do the job 99% of the time ....

Posted

Think some of the previous posts miss this part ....

 

 

We mostly drive to the Durbanville hills trails in the car, then ride the trails. Each time we see MANY MTB's on the tar road, heading out to the trails. Both there and back you encounter long tar down hill sections ....

 

On some sections it is even safe to exceed 40km/h .... but hardly any fun at 100rpm .....

 

 

Then you get to the trails and need a LOW gear for the likes of Dorstberg .....

 

 

No wonder there is such a market for a 1x12 .....

 

 

ON a trail only .... 1x11 would certainly do the job 99% of the time ....

Exactly this. I do spin out on flats offroad, however that's mostly keep tracks and gravel roads...

 

My rides however all start from home, so I have a bit of tar mileage to get through and back.

 

Lastly, and actually my most concerning point, gear spacing... The spacing between gears is fantastic on the 12 vs 10...

 

Still happy with sunrace and its performing flawlessly. Have decided to just go 34t up front until chainring are more readily available. Love the change and got good value for money, IMHO.

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