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To 1x11 or to not. That's the question.


Jacobus Louw

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Posted

I'm sorry to be that guy, but no 26er can be a current one...

 

OP ride your bike as the man says and see if you really do get back into it after such a long layoff, as maybe you don't and then you have not spent unnecessary ZAR.

i was talking geo wise....its a longer 2016 cotic BFE in 26" guise is all i meant and they still make them even in 2019 geo so your argument is invalid :whistling:. different strokes...

what i meant to say was it's a slacker LTHT fand thus theoretically will not go uphill AS good as a Xc geo bike. It was built to go downhill fast...that being said...i just did 80km on the road with it last weekend in prep for CTCT (which i'll ride on it aswell) and it was just fine. spins out at 40kph but thats about it. 36T in the rear was enough for any hill.

 

ride what you got OP and don't by into all the marketing BS. it has wheels and pedals and hopefully goes forward. all you need.

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Posted

But why ?

 

Why do you want to upgrade ?

 

Why do you need to upgrade ?

 

All you doing is spending more money for fewer gears. Save the money and ride in the big chain ring or small chain ring of your choosing.

1 x is way better if you do wet muddy riding as a 3 or 2 x is prone to chainsuck if you put the power down, this is due to different wear rates on the chain blades. 2 x is less prone to this but 1 x is immune to it and you can ride your drivetrain into the ground.

 

Have you done the math (excluding eagle) swapping out chains these days is the equivalent of riding a 1 x into the ground and then replacing the drive train.

Posted

1 x is way better if you do wet muddy riding as a 3 or 2 x is prone to chainsuck if you put the power down, this is due to different wear rates on the chain blades. 2 x is less prone to this but 1 x is immune to it and you can ride your drivetrain into the ground.

 

Have you done the math (excluding eagle) swapping out chains these days is the equivalent of riding a 1 x into the ground and then replacing the drive train.

 

going to make interesting maths, when the time comes ..... do I replace the Eagle components when worn, or convert to one of the more affordable 1x systems ....

 

 

For NOW - I am considering getting another chain .... apparently some people use 2 or even 3 chains, swopping these out regularly, thereby extending the life of the gears ..... would be interesting to hear the experts opinion ...

 

IF going this route, do you buy the KMC 12 speed chains on special at Evobikes for R325 ... or the KMC chains for R900 ... or what else ?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Gents, dont want to open another thread as i have a similar question.

 

I am replacing my 2 x 10 groupo with a 1 x. 

 

I am looking at a 36 front blade and a 10 - 42 at the back. 

 

Was looking at the eagle gx 12 speed but i really doubt if ill use the 50T.

 

Is there anyone with experience on this.

 

My current min ratio is 0.86, and ive never needed a lighter gear (28/39 -11 -36)

 

on a 36/42 ill be on 0.95. Is this a massive difference? 

Posted

Hi everyone! New here. 24, Bellville/Langebaan WC, 1.96m, back on the bike after 7 years of not riding. I have a 2008 Merida Matts TFS 700 XC  26er with Deore on the front, XT on the back, and those stupid Deore brake lever / shifter hybrids. I have also realised that even though I want to, I can't buy a new bike.

 

Now – Would it be wise/possible to upgrade to a Shimano or Sram 1x11 system? Any input on other upgrade suggestions are also welcome. Thanks in advance! Jakes. 

I rode the trails at Tranquilitas on a Diamond Back Topanga for a year with 1x9 (30 front, 11-36 rear). I also had those Deore brake lever/shifter hybrids (9spd), so I kept poking around in the classifieds until I found replacements which would work (independent brake levers and a shifter for rear derailleur).

 

As others have said - don't over-capitalize on this bike. Rather do a cheap-ish upgrade and then save for a new or second-hand bike (e.g. here in the classifieds). 

Posted

Hi Gents, dont want to open another thread as i have a similar question.

 

I am replacing my 2 x 10 groupo with a 1 x. 

 

I am looking at a 36 front blade and a 10 - 42 at the back. 

 

Was looking at the eagle gx 12 speed but i really doubt if ill use the 50T.

 

Is there anyone with experience on this.

 

My current min ratio is 0.86, and ive never needed a lighter gear (28/39 -11 -36)

 

on a 36/42 ill be on 0.95. Is this a massive difference? 

 

YES, that is a massive difference 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

varkie2 what did you go for ?

 

And is it working for you ?

 

 

I have since stumbled upon this  - http://www.ritzelrechner.de/

 

 

Make sure to select the correct tire size, and then the gearing options.  I started with a KNOWN tire size and gear ratio, knowing where it works and where it hurts the rider.  It was then easy to determine what new options may or may not be suitable for the particular rider and terrain ....

Posted

Hi Gents, dont want to open another thread as i have a similar question.

 

I am replacing my 2 x 10 groupo with a 1 x.

 

I am looking at a 36 front blade and a 10 - 42 at the back.

 

Was looking at the eagle gx 12 speed but i really doubt if ill use the 50T.

 

Is there anyone with experience on this.

 

My current min ratio is 0.86, and ive never needed a lighter gear (28/39 -11 -36)

 

on a 36/42 ill be on 0.95. Is this a massive difference?

My legs are hurting just thinking about 36 42 on a hill. That's like Niño level quads and i heard the guys workout includes 300% Squats.

 

I recently went 1x11 and took 30t to test and it was fine, made it like 250km before upping it to a 32t oval which feels like a nice but tough balance. You def feel it on the climbs considering that as I understand it the long side which it meant to be in the most powerful part of your Stoke is basically a 34t and the narrow is a 30t.

 

Its more expensive but maybe try ease in or see if a mate has a 2x with a 36t in front to take for a spin.

 

When I do kill my cluster I am gonna get an 11 46 instead of a 42 just to give that little more chill on a long climb, but ya by the time I get the a 50t will make me lazy again and its 4k vs R800 between a 46 and a 50t seeing as I'll need a jocket 'n Shifter.

Posted

My legs are hurting just thinking about 36 42 on a hill. That's like Niño level quads and i heard the guys workout includes 300% Squats.

 

I recently went 1x11 and took 30t to test and it was fine, made it like 250km before upping it to a 32t oval which feels like a nice but tough balance. You def feel it on the climbs considering that as I understand it the long side which it meant to be in the most powerful part of your Stoke is basically a 34t and the narrow is a 30t.

 

Its more expensive but maybe try ease in or see if a mate has a 2x with a 36t in front to take for a spin.

 

When I do kill my cluster I am gonna get an 11 46 instead of a 42 just to give that little more chill on a long climb, but ya by the time I get the a 50t will make me lazy again and its 4k vs R800 between a 46 and a 50t seeing as I'll need a jocket 'n Shifter.

 

Reme but then again .... the 11\50 11 speed Sunrace gives you the option to go larger in the front ....

 

Keep the climbing where you are happy, and gain valuable top end for the tar sections to the trails (IF that is a consideration for you)

Posted

Interesting to see how the brands adjust the gear spread ....

 

post-110956-0-46833600-1556123622_thumb.jpg

 

I am liking the Sunrace 1x11, with the 11-50 cassette ....  This comes CLOSE to the full gear range of the traditional 3x setup ....

 

seems you have to trade of "full range" vs "smaller steps" between the mid range gears.

Posted

Reme but then again .... the 11\50 11 speed Sunrace gives you the option to go larger in the front ....

 

Keep the climbing where you are happy, and gain valuable top end for the tar sections to the trails (IF that is a consideration for you)

I have made that consideration and it was cost vs value. The 50 will allow moving from a 32 to a 34 with a near zero energy cost, at the bottom that gives me about 5 to 7kph pedal speed before spinning out,which can be valueable.

 

But considering I am not gonna hit a podium any time every it comes down to spending near R4500 for that 7kph.

 

Could probably make up the time defacit in the 2 or 3 races i do a year by simply not eating so much crap which would ironically in turn probably save me money.

 

To me spending that much money what is to me a negligible benefit is not worth it.

Posted

I have made that consideration and it was cost vs value. The 50 will allow moving from a 32 to a 34 with a near zero energy cost, at the bottom that gives me about 5 to 7kph pedal speed before spinning out,which can be valueable.

 

But considering I am not gonna hit a podium any time every it comes down to spending near R4500 for that 7kph.

 

Could probably make up the time defacit in the 2 or 3 races i do a year by simply not eating so much crap which would ironically in turn probably save me money.

 

To me spending that much money what is to me a negligible benefit is not worth it.

 

Hiehie .... yes, once we have the basic setup it becomes too expensive to swop out key bits ....

 

 

With any luck some will read these threads and learn from our school fees ....  :whistling:

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