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Need some advice on my MTB Disk brakes


Bateleur1

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Find a downhill on the road somewhere, head down it at about 20km/h and brake hard until you are almost stopped (don't lock the wheels and don't actually stop) repeat this a few times and then do it a few more times from higher speed (about 30km/h). Then Robert is your mother's brother.

Gotta be careful not to overdo it and glaze them again.

Bateleur1, get an Alen key and crack the seal of the caliper bolts on the frame. Hold the brake lever in and tighten the caliper bolts again. That should align the disk to the rotor. Google it and have a look on YouTube first. Very simple when you've done it a few times

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1. Remove pads.

2. Use P240 wet emery paper and sand them for 4 seconds.

3. Reinstall your pads.

4. Buy your wife flowers with the money you saved.

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Shimano deore and XT are noisy when moist and cold .Maybe they never warm up in Munich 

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Shimano deore and XT are noisy when moist and cold .Maybe they never warm up in Munich 

 

My wifes city bike has deore on not as much as a sound comming out from them after 4 years.  Moisture could very much be a factor as the bikes are park in the garage behind the car.  But then why do the other bikes not have the same problem.

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Ok.  New disks and new pads.  Back wheel is perfect.  Brakes still needs to be bedded.  But the front seems to have a problem.  When putting the wheel back in all is well but applying the brakes and after centering the calliper it seems the pads are not moving back far enough and are constantly making contact with the disk.

 

Any advice?

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Put the old brake pads back in the caliper, and then use a broad/wide bladed flat screwdriver to carefully push both sides pistons back into the caliper. Re install your new pads, put the wheel back in, center the caliper and then pump the brake lever a few times. This should sort out your grabbing brakes problem.

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Assuming you mean that the disk caliper pads are rubbing on the rotor when the lever is not being used/squeezed:

 

1) The fixed/non-moving pad/side in the caliper on my brakes are adjusted with an allen key from that outer side of the caliper. If it has been a while this bolt could require some effort to get moving. On my brakes there is a decent such that I back off the bolt one click at a time and see how the clearance is.

 

2) The moving pad/side in the caliper is adjusted by cable tension in the usual way, i.e. with the barrel adjuster at the lever or the pinch bolt at the caliper.

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Put the old brake pads back in the caliper, and then use a broad/wide bladed flat screwdriver to carefully push both sides pistons back into the caliper. Re install your new pads, put the wheel back in, center the caliper and then pump the brake lever a few times. This should sort out your grabbing brakes problem.

 

Yip been doing that.  Pushed the pistons back.  Installed the pads.  Loosend the bolts on the caliper to center it.  Pulled the brake then tightened the bolts again but after that make contact even when not touching the levers.  Will follow up on SlickJay007 answer.

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Thanks for all the info.  I have order new discs and resin pads.  The Icetech discs of Shimano can take both metal and resin.  The current disks will not get thrown away.  They will be cleaned properly and checked and stored for later.  Will check the calipers as well when replacing.

 

I have seen quite a ideas on how to bed the brakes.  How do you guys do it?

 

I bomb down Helderberg. One session does it usually.  :clap:

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Ok.  New disks and new pads.  Back wheel is perfect.  Brakes still needs to be bedded.  But the front seems to have a problem.  When putting the wheel back in all is well but applying the brakes and after centering the calliper it seems the pads are not moving back far enough and are constantly making contact with the disk.

 

Any advice?

 

This is probably why it is getting glazed all the time. This also seems to indicate that you have a very small leak somewhere in your system. If the pads don't return home it means that there is not enough suction created when you release the brake lever. Check the bolt that tightens the brake lining connector to the caliper. It does sometimes loosen up from vibration.

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Ok.  New disks and new pads.  Back wheel is perfect.  Brakes still needs to be bedded.  But the front seems to have a problem.  When putting the wheel back in all is well but applying the brakes and after centering the calliper it seems the pads are not moving back far enough and are constantly making contact with the disk.

 

Any advice?

 

System may need a good bleed, or as others have mentioned, there may be a small leak.

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Yip been doing that. Pushed the pistons back. Installed the pads. Loosend the bolts on the caliper to center it. Pulled the brake then tightened the bolts again but after that make contact even when not touching the levers. Will follow up on SlickJay007 answer.

Try adjust them manually by positioning the Caliper using hand / eye and a torch....

 

It’s painful and a good test of your patience and fine tuning skills...There should be a slight torch light gap visible on either side of the disk after adjustments to the caliper position.

If you can’t maintain the gap after applying the brakes then there is something else wrong.

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Yip been doing that.  Pushed the pistons back.  Installed the pads.  Loosend the bolts on the caliper to center it.  Pulled the brake then tightened the bolts again but after that make contact even when not touching the levers.  Will follow up on SlickJay007 answer.

Piston seals are gone/gummed up. YouTube how remove and clean the piston.

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Piston seals are gone/gummed up. YouTube how remove and clean the piston.

 

Take it easy. Don't stuff them up if you do this. Shimano don't sell any parts. You have to buy full new brake set if you do. Ask me how I know.

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The guys at Park Tools say to clean the pistons, carefully, without removing them from the calipers.

 

 

Mind you don't inadvertently pump them out too far out of the calipers without pads and disk to stop them. You may need to bleed them as well.

 

My wife and I both have SLX brakes. When we ride down to Muizenberg, sometimes both bike's brakes start squealing as we approach within a block of the beach and stop squealing when we get a block away again. I assume those days had high moisture on the coast.

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The guys at Park Tools say to clean the pistons, carefully, without removing them from the calipers.

 

 

Mind you don't inadvertently pump them out too far out of the calipers without pads and disk to stop them. You may need to bleed them as well.

 

My wife and I both have SLX brakes. When we ride down to Muizenberg, sometimes both bike's brakes start squealing as we approach within a block of the beach and stop squealing when we get a block away again. I assume those days had high moisture on the coast.

 

Good video thanks.  Will run down at do the same.

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