Sram Eagle Chain noise

[Sidmouth]

My second Sram XX1 eagle drive chain, got 9000km out of my first one, Love the Eagle

On my second XX1 drive chain now, with 3000KM, I rotate two chains , change them every 700KM, the problem with the one chain is that it feels like its full of sand, a grinding feeling no matter how clean it is, its so irritating i can no longer use it, 

with 3000 on the entire drive chain theses chains have around 1500km on the each, they can handle more, in fact the second chain has been doing it after 500km, any clue or should i just replace one chain at R1450 

[DieselnDust]

try and get t cleaned in an ultrasonic bath. If its really clean then try lubing with motorcyle chain lube. apply a few coats. if it persists then warranty the chain. If possible there's a few burs on some rollers

[madmarc]

Why would you rotate chains ? i cannot see any benefit it would have on wear.

 

The noise you hearing indicates a chain that not been cleaned properly, How do you clean it ? you say its clean but is it really.

 

I would submerge it in petrol shake/shake/shake let it stand and shake again. Then rinse it in Mentholated spirits/benzine or thinners. If you still seeing dirt and particles then repeat. Once the final rinse is clear then re-lube and check for the noise - If its still there then i fear the chain is toast

[Sidmouth]

try and get t cleaned in an ultrasonic bath. If its really clean then try lubing with motorcyle chain lube. apply a few coats. if it persists then warranty the chain. If possible there's a few burs on some rollers

Thanks, I have cleaned it a few times, its still makes the grinding sound, great Idea, I bought it from Chain reactions cycles, I will buy another from them and then submit a warrenty claim

[Sidmouth]

Why would you rotate chains ? i cannot see any benefit it would have on wear.

 

The noise you hearing indicates a chain that not been cleaned properly, How do you clean it ? you say its clean but is it really.

 

I would submerge it in petrol shake/shake/shake let it stand and shake again. Then rinse it in Mentholated spirits/benzine or thinners. If you still seeing dirt and particles then repeat. Once the final rinse is clear then re-lube and check for the noise - If its still there then i fear the chain is toast

Why would you rotate chains.

when a chain stretches the stretch wears the cassette and ring, the idea of rotating a chain is to wear cassette and ring to a minimum, if the first chain wears to much the cassette and ring will not accommodate a new chain , the wear at this point is to great,  and the drive chain needs to be replaced or you just have to keep running it was the same old chain

[DieselnDust]

Thanks, I have cleaned it a few times, its still makes the grinding sound, great Idea, I bought it from Chain reactions cycles, I will buy another from them and then submit a warrenty claim

 

 

ok thats one way to solve it

[SwissVan]

Why would you rotate chains ? i cannot see any benefit it would have on wear.

 

The noise you hearing indicates a chain that not been cleaned properly, How do you clean it ? you say its clean but is it really.

 

I would submerge it in petrol shake/shake/shake let it stand and shake again. Then rinse it in Mentholated spirits/benzine or thinners. If you still seeing dirt and particles then repeat. Once the final rinse is clear then re-lube and check for the noise - If its still there then i fear the chain is toast

I dunno boet, my day only has 24 hrs in it.

 

I’ve never bothered cleaning my chain to this extent, because quite simply it’s dirty again a few km’s later again no matter how well you clean it.

 

Rag or paper towel, wipe well, lubricate and wipe off excess.

And my chains are not noisy by any means, nor do they wear out prematurely.

 

OP I’d suggest you try a new chain and see if the problem persists / returns. If it still happens with the new chain, then check the jockey wheels and chain ring for something abnormal that might create the noise.

[Sidmouth]

I dunno boet, my day only has 24 hrs in it.

 

I’ve never bothered cleaning my chain to this extent, because quite simply it’s dirty again a few km’s later again no matter how well you clean it.

 

Rag or paper towel, wipe well, lubricate and wipe off excess.

And my chains are not noisy by any means, nor do they wear out prematurely.

 

OP I’d suggest you try a new chain and see if the problem persists / returns. If it still happens with the new chain, then check the jockey wheels and chain ring for something abnormal that might create the noise.

I kind of agree, if you use wax on a MTB chain it almost self cleans to a point, petrol is not a good idea its to dry and strips all oils, re lubing with a wax lubricant with a very high viscosity cannot get into the rollers with are deteriorating as the petrol drys from them, rather use paraffin or diesel or a chain cleaning product for chains.

 

I have two chains, the second one with the same mileage is smooth as silk , I guess i have to drop R1400 and get a new one while they are still in compatible mileage 

[DieselnDust]

or just run the one you have till its at 0.5% wear and then move it to a road bike

[madmarc]

I kind of agree, if you use wax on a MTB chain it almost self cleans to a point, petrol is not a good idea its to dry and strips all oils, re lubing with a wax lubricant with a very high viscosity cannot get into the rollers with are deteriorating as the petrol drys from them, rather use paraffin or diesel or a chain cleaning product for chains.

 

I have two chains, the second one with the same mileage is smooth as silk , I guess i have to drop R1400 and get a new one while they are still in compatible mileage 

 

There no such thing as a self cleaning wax lubricant, if, as you say, the wax viscosity is too high to get into the rollers, then how does it flow in and out of the rollers to clean it. Most wax lubes are snake oil sold by marketing hype. Unless its made from Paraffin based wax mixed with Paraffin oil suspended in a fluid that keeps the viscosity similar to water. And even then, once the suspension fluid has evaporated after application, the viscosity increases and the wax becomes more solid, under pressure its squeezed out of the rollers and cannot run back once tension is released. this is why chains run dry when using these so called dry lube.

 

The name Dry Lube says it all - How does something dry have any lubricating properties. the only benefit is that it doesn't attract dirt as it's dry.

 

As a Mechanical Engineer, i can tell you the only thing that lubricates metal is oil. Chains are metal - go figure.

 

Yes the oil gets dirty and needs to be cleaned, but that's just the way it is - Your car needs oil changes, just like your chain. Or maybe we should start throwing wax lube in our car engines.....mmmmm now there's an idea

[Wayne pudding Mol]

There no such thing as a self cleaning wax lubricant, if, as you say, the wax viscosity is too high to get into the rollers, then how does it flow in and out of the rollers to clean it. Most wax lubes are snake oil sold by marketing hype. Unless its made from Paraffin based wax mixed with Paraffin oil suspended in a fluid that keeps the viscosity similar to water. And even then, once the suspension fluid has evaporated after application, the viscosity increases and the wax becomes more solid, under pressure its squeezed out of the rollers and cannot run back once tension is released. this is why chains run dry when using these so called dry lube.

 

The name Dry Lube says it all - How does something dry have any lubricating properties. the only benefit is that it doesn't attract dirt as it's dry.

 

As a Mechanical Engineer, i can tell you the only thing that lubricates metal is oil. Chains are metal - go figure.

 

Yes the oil gets dirty and needs to be cleaned, but that's just the way it is - Your car needs oil changes, just like your chain. Or maybe we should start throwing wax lube in our car engines.....mmmmm now there's an idea

To lubricate is to make something run smoothly - usually grease or oil is used yes but lubrication doesn’t have to be wet

 

For example - the tender process in South Africa is often lubricated with off book cash. The corridors of power in the case being greased with dry cash.

 

Bit off topic I know.

 

Wurth make a really good dry lube in a can which stops all sorts of squeaks WD40 or Q20 won’t

 

I use it on my road chain

[Shebeen]

Why would you rotate chains ? i cannot see any benefit it would have on wear.

 

The noise you hearing indicates a chain that not been cleaned properly, How do you clean it ? you say its clean but is it really.

 

I would submerge it in petrol shake/shake/shake let it stand and shake again. Then rinse it in Mentholated spirits/benzine or thinners. If you still seeing dirt and particles then repeat. Once the final rinse is clear then re-lube and check for the noise - If its still there then i fear the chain is toast

because rotating two of the highest wearing item inline with one of the lowest wearing item makes perfect sense.

 

 

if you can be dedicated about it

[DieselnDust]

Oh I do so love an oil war.

 

So let's get some facts on the table.petrolwum wax is pretty much wax....and that means it's paraffinic. The purity can vary. The more pure it is the easier it dissolves into a lubricating oil. Solvents allow a higher diluent effect.

lubricating oil as far as bicycles chains are concerned are pretty much the same. The chain is not a high speed device so viscosity doesn't play as an important a role as it is made out to be. It just needs to be viscous enough to not drip off the chain and onto the floor.

naphthenic oils work well because they allow a better absorption of additive.

 

Wax lubes work by keeping the oil suspended in the wax crystalline structure. Under pressure the local temp is raised and the wax melts releasing the oil and adds to the oil. It solidifies again and will also then trap dirt. This cycle continues. This is the cleaning that marketers claim. Is it real. You decide. I will say wax lube is easier to clean off the chain.

 

Although I do so love to see a strong oil debate all based on the bs the marketers throw out there I prefer to make my own lube and I do use wax as an ingredient because it just works. The oil used is far more important.

 

Dry lube is just a lighter viscosity oil

Wet lube is an oil with a lot of tackiness additive so stop the oil being wash away. It's not always more viscous than dry but tackiness additive can make it more of muktigrade oil to a limited extent hence they sometimes appear to flow more slowly at room temp. Add some pressure and you're back to oils normal behaviour. But really don't overthink this thing. Even a can of sae40 from your local petrol station will work.

 

For the cost of one bottle of chain lube I end up making about 15 times the volume of that bottle.

[Sidmouth]

problem solved, I run a oneup chainring with one chain and a blackspire chain ring with the other chain, today I put both chains on with the Blackspire and both times the noise and grit was prominent, put the oneup component chainring on, tried both chains and both silky smooth, 

The Blackspire chain ring has less than 500KM on it the one up just over 800KM.

 

Blackspire made in Canada what a load of crap, I have run Csixx chainring to 4000km and they still feel new.

 

wonder how much damage i have dont to the second chain which worked with the Blackspire

[BikeisLife]

problem solved, I run a oneup chainring with one chain and a blackspire chain ring with the other chain, today I put both chains on with the Blackspire and both times the noise and grit was prominent, put the oneup component chainring on, tried both chains and both silky smooth,

The Blackspire chain ring has less than 500KM on it the one up just over 800KM.

 

Blackspire made in Canada what a load of crap, I have run Csixx chainring to 4000km and they still feel new.

 

wonder how much damage i have dont to the second chain which worked with the Blackspire

Those chainrings are terrible with eagle chains.

 

I used one for less than 500km, put a new chain on and it was making a terrible noise and staying hooked on the chainring.

 

Sold it to a mate that was running 1 x 10 and it ran smoothly.

 

Edit: Spelling (been a long week)

[DieselnDust]

aaahhh a little detail you failed to mention because then we could have asked you to check for chainring wear