Eddie Stafford Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Bearings, reliability and it's not so much POE but angle of engagement. I'm with DnD on the ratchet upgrade. 36-54 is a waste of money. Chris King aren't light, but their bearings are the best in the business without dispute. If you service them and clean and lube the ring engagement they will last forever. DT freehubs are made of cheese. This is probably my only 'complaint' but I got around it by pinning the cassette. I think there used to be a far bigger gap between 'good' and 'cheap' hubs, but these days that gap seems to be closing considerably. I built a set of 650b wheels onto a Lyne hub for my gravel bike and it is fantastic. Hope are designed for the UK. They are largely fit and forget products, which IMHO is what you want. I have 2 x sets of hope, 1 x set of CK and 1 x set of DT swiss all in operation and I cannot fault any of them. All easy to take apart and service/clean, all reliable and I couldn't give a hoot about the sound, so I'm probably not helping. waffle waffle... sorry Excuse my ignorance. What does this mean?: I got around it by pinning the cassette.
MORNE Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 There's a saying in Afrikaans:"Hoop in die een hand en k@k in die ander..." Translate as you see fit
Zorro5614 Posted June 24, 2019 Author Posted June 24, 2019 Will "better" bearings make any difference to how fast the wheels spins up and keeps spinning?
Thermophage Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Will "better" bearings make any difference to how fast the wheels spins up and keeps spinning?They would, along with longevity/etc. But...bearings are an easy thing to swap out aftermarket anyway.
MORNE Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Will "better" bearings make any difference to how fast the wheels spins up and keeps spinning?well...here is just one example i guess. it is all about tolerances.
Jewbacca Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Excuse my ignorance. What does this mean?: I got around it by pinning the cassette.Some cassettes come with a spider for the larger cogs and then have separate cogs/spacers. I lined up the cogs and spacers on an old freehub, then drilled the spacers in line with the pin hole. After that I used a clamp to slowly force a pin rod through the holes to make the next part of the cassette 1 solid piece. Left with only the bottom 2 as separate pieces. This stops the single cogs from digging into the alu splines under load. Not an issue with some cassettes as they come already made up in blocks.
DieselnDust Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Good to hear. Will "better" bearings make any difference to how fast the wheels spin up and keep spinning? Whats a better bearing? the ZeroTwo hub bearings were selected for the seal integrity. they don;t spin as freely initially as maybe a Hope or DT Swiss because the seals need to bed in first. Once they're in the hubs spin as freely as any other. The only hubs tht will spin freely from new and are well sealed are the Chris King ISO Disc. R10k for a rear hub alone.... You can buy bearings that will spin freely from the start but you will be re-greasing them more often. I'm starting to to wonder what the problem is you're really trying to solve because it sounds like you're after change for changes sake and want to add more bling. If this IS the case then I can help you more clearly./For BlingECCHopei9ChrisKing in order of increasing cost
Zorro5614 Posted June 24, 2019 Author Posted June 24, 2019 Thanks Diesel You are talking me out of spending a lot of money. Looks like the performance increase will be minimal at best. Durability and reliability as also been faultless so far So maybe I am looking for something where there isn't a problem
DieselnDust Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Thanks Diesel You are talking me out of spending a lot of money. Looks like the performance increase will be minimal at best. Durability and reliability as also been faultless so far So maybe I am looking for something where there isn't a problem well pretty hubs are always nice to look at.Performance of your ZeroTwo can be improved through different bearings, like maybe ceramics, but this is a marginal gain at best. I'd hang ten till you know exactly which hubs you want and why. Sometimes it takes a while to meet the right hub. Having a gold hub because you want one is just as valid as getting a 10gr lighter hub because it may you ride faster.What you currently have is really good kit so I wouldn't feel 2nd class rolling up to the start line with those wheels. In fact I'm looking at as well for a 2nd set of wheels because they tick a lot of boxes.I spoke to Steve about bling hub options and he just laughed and said that it just adds complexity and they're trying to offer a great product at a great price with local backup/servicability and dependability. The Dormakaba team rides those wheels as well as the units their bikes are shipped with.
Zorro5614 Posted June 24, 2019 Author Posted June 24, 2019 Also thinking that my local climbs are pretty straight forward and not very technical. No need to ratchet the crank or anything of the sort Also the cost of new spokes and rebuilding the wheels could make this a R10 000 exercise for no benefit than just looking nice
Jewbacca Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 WHAT?! Is sense prevailing here before anyone started a fight with someone over a moot point?! I won't have it!
Zorro5614 Posted June 24, 2019 Author Posted June 24, 2019 The upcoming tax refund will be burning a hole in my pocket
arendoog Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Will "better" bearings make any difference to how fast the wheels spins up and keeps spinning?Yes
100Tours Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Your conclusion should be to not skimp on the upgrade, but don't stop thinking about it either (Or bide your time and keep an eye on the classifieds). Also if you're not the weight weeny type how about not going carbon and rather riding high end aluminium rims. Good hubs are a really nice upgrade (assuming the rest of the bike is worth upgrading). I rate the improvement on hubs at more than upgrading the rims, and you should be able to do a lot for 10 grand. If I had 10k to spend I would budget on -R5000 for the hubsR2500 for the rimsR2500 for the wheelbuild and other hardware And you could save a grand on both hubs and rims if you shop carefully. I'd say my best personal wheel buys (in terms of giving me most pleasure) have been- Campy Shamals (Road) for R9k in 2009. Still smooth as butter, and still riding them hard. Expensive at the time, but oh so good and they have lived up to the investment - well over 15,000k's now.- R4.5k for a set of Hope hoops for a 26"er in 2012. The hoops are long gone, but the hubs live on in a lively 650 wheelset laced to Raceface rims.- R4k rebuild on a set of DT540 tandem hubs - installed a narrow 29er Alexrim rim and now run it with 28mm rubber on the road. The wheels I've wasted money on are those when I tried to go too light and broken them, or where I've gone for no-name brands that are hard to maintain.
arendoog Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Expensive hubs are great ,especially on a road bike .But average and even cheap ones work very well also .If you can afford the best then buy them .I have spoilt myself to a set of Mavic pro wheelset .I can feel the difference from my Hope/Arch set .The ceramic bearings on a Fulcrum zero wheelset are awesome ,but they cost plenty
Zorro5614 Posted June 24, 2019 Author Posted June 24, 2019 Think I will stick with these hubs for the time being. Maybe do some more reading into bearings. Maybe something TBT bearings offered by Token Cycling
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