Suspension fork travel

[gu3st]

Hi guys

 

I have a Rockshox Reba RL from 2018. It's supposed to be 100mm travel (that's how I bought it and had it installed) but I know it can be changed to 80mm too.

 

When I measure the stanchion, there is 100mm exposed. But when I take all the air out and push right to the bottom, and then pump up the shock again, I only measure 80mm of movement. Similarly, while the fork is bottomed out (with no air in it) there is still 20mm of stanchion exposed. I thought this meant that my fork was set up as an 80mm fork, so I took it back to the LBS, however, they are adamant it is set up as a 100mm. When I pointed out that the fork only moves 80mm - i.e. it is only 80mm of travel - they just said that the forks are built to protect themselves from bottoming out, that's why it stops at 80mm.

 

The story sounds like bull to me - and I'm convinced my shock is set up as an 80mm fork.

 

Am I wrong/crazy?

[Quagga]

That story is BS. I could be that your fork has way to many tokens on the left side

If you are in the cape area....Contract Droo at Stokesuspension

 

Or Robbie's Bicycle Concept in PE

 

There is also a hubber in JHB just can not rememver his name now

EDIT: David Marchall in JHB at spoke and spanner

[Hamstring]

  BS  i say, just a quick WWW 

People also ask

What does 100mm travel mean?

travel is how far down the fork can compress (how much shorter it will get when it is pushed as far as it will go) like spawne said, short travell (usually 120mm or less) is for cross country, medium (130-160mm usually) is for trail, or all mountain riding. anything 160mm or more will be for downhill or freeride.

[DieselnDust]

there is a bump stop in the airspring but it should not start at 80mm, more like 85mm but it could be 20mm depending on the  serial number. Has the fork been serviced recently? perhaps there's too much oil in the lower, or water has got in

[gu3st]

It hasn't been serviced recently, but I don't ride that often and never in bad weather. But it is probably due a service.

 

The reason I don't think it's something random like oil or water is because it is a hard stop at exactly 80mm (measured with calipers). If it was something like oil or water I would expect some random amount of travel reduction.

 

To me, the obvious, easiest answer is usually the correct one! I also thought about excess tokens but I wasn't brave enough to pull the fork apart to have a look!

 

I'm in Cape Town so I'll definitely give Droo a shout and get him to have a look.

 

Thanks!

[Martin PJ]

I had this problem once, the bike shop told me that all the forks were like that. Took it to another bike shop, now the fork goes all the way down.

[DieselnDust]

It hasn't been serviced recently, but I don't ride that often and never in bad weather. But it is probably due a service.

 

The reason I don't think it's something random like oil or water is because it is a hard stop at exactly 80mm (measured with calipers). If it was something like oil or water I would expect some random amount of travel reduction.

 

To me, the obvious, easiest answer is usually the correct one! I also thought about excess tokens but I wasn't brave enough to pull the fork apart to have a look!

 

I'm in Cape Town so I'll definitely give Droo a shout and get him to have a look.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Its a ReBA , any SRAM ?rockShox dealer should be able to remove the airspring top cap to check for excessive number of tokens. they will also know how many should actually be in there.

 

REBA should not have more than 3 tokens. the 100mm version ships with Zero tokens inside

[gemmerbal]

Coming in from the side here, but it just amazes me the utter BS "expertise" some of these so-called bike shops try to sell us consumers, I mean really!

 

That's why i prefer to work on my own bike. I just walk in, buy the tools and parts I need and then off I go. Unless I REALLY cannot do it myself, I will go to my LBS (Attitude Cycles), Mark is a good guy, always willing to help a guy out and share some of his views.

 

I know some people don't have the inclination/time to pick up a spanner, but in my humble opinion if you understand your equipment and what it is supposed to do, you will much sooner realize when the paw-paw is approaching the fan.

 

And if money is no problem, just chuck it and buy a new one. I like my money in my pocket, not someone else's More money for coffee...

[droo]

Coming in from the side here, but it just amazes me the utter BS "expertise" some of these so-called bike shops try to sell us consumers, I mean really!

 

That's why i prefer to work on my own bike. I just walk in, buy the tools and parts I need and then off I go. Unless I REALLY cannot do it myself, I will go to my LBS (Attitude Cycles), Mark is a good guy, always willing to help a guy out and share some of his views.

 

I know some people don't have the inclination/time to pick up a spanner, but in my humble opinion if you understand your equipment and what it is supposed to do, you will much sooner realize when the paw-paw is approaching the fan.

 

And if money is no problem, just chuck it and buy a new one. I like my money in my pocket, not someone else's More money for coffee...

 

Some of the scariest jobs I see in the shop come from engineers.

 

So the most important 2 parts of DIY are, in order:

 

1. RTFM.

2. Know when you're running out of tools or talent, stop, and call someone who either has the tools or understands the problem.

3, just cos I can't count. Know who to call when 2 happens. Good mechanics exist, you just need to find one.

 

OP - my guess is hydraulic lock, either from an overfilled damper or too much oil in the lowers. Bring it round and I'll tell you which one it is.

[gemmerbal]

I still run a coil fork. Cheap as chips to service and easier than peeing in my short pant. When i get a proper fork you are the first person ill call bud. Your legendary status preceed you.

 

Some of the scariest jobs I see in the shop come from engineers.

 

So the most important 2 parts of DIY are, in order:

 

1. RTFM.

2. Know when you're running out of tools or talent, stop, and call someone who either has the tools or understands the problem.

3, just cos I can't count. Know who to call when 2 happens. Good mechanics exist, you just need to find one.

 

OP - my guess is hydraulic lock, either from an overfilled damper or too much oil in the lowers. Bring it round and I'll tell you which one it is.

[gu3st]

Thanks droo. I'll bring it round early next week, if that's okay!

 

Some of the scariest jobs I see in the shop come from engineers.

 

So the most important 2 parts of DIY are, in order:

 

1. RTFM.

2. Know when you're running out of tools or talent, stop, and call someone who either has the tools or understands the problem.

3, just cos I can't count. Know who to call when 2 happens. Good mechanics exist, you just need to find one.

 

OP - my guess is hydraulic lock, either from an overfilled damper or too much oil in the lowers. Bring it round and I'll tell you which one it is.