henningvr Posted February 13, 2020 Posted February 13, 2020 Having experienced and solved the maddening clicking sound several times: Does it click when you stand up out of the saddle? If not, it's likely your seatpost/saddle. Remove and clean seatpost and clamp. Add a smidgen (microns, as said by morneS555 above) of carbon grease on the section that goes into the seatstay. Re-assemble and test. If yes, it could possible be a dry rear (through) axle. Take out the axle, clean it, and apply just a smidge of grease. Re-assemble and test. Good luck.
Shebeen Posted February 13, 2020 Posted February 13, 2020 Hi, Has anyone got a good reference on a bike store that can find and sort out a clicking sound when I pedal?I have a 2013 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp 29 Its been Centurion Cyclery 3 Times now and everytime I get it back its quiet for about 25km and then the sound comes back. Over the last couple of visits and service they replaced the following... Steering BearingsWheel Bearings (Front and Back)BBNew PedalsChecked all FSR BearingsSpokes and yet again today 2 weeks later click is back.if they have not checked saddle/seatpost yet then get a new bikeshop AdamA and henningvr 2
Barry_W Posted February 13, 2020 Posted February 13, 2020 I had an irritating click that carried on after checking seat post, rails, BB, crank bolts pedals and stray cables. It turned out to be a little bit of grit wedged under my SPD cleat on my shoe! Might be worth a try to remove cleats and clean under there, you never know.
Psyrax Posted February 13, 2020 Posted February 13, 2020 All of the above is a possibility, BUT there is one thing which is always overlooked. Your bottlecage mounts, on the inside of the frame, could also have a welding spot that scratches against the tube. We once had a bike with also a creak that seem to disappear and reappear like out of the blue. You say it appear after a few km ridden. It could be that frame heats up in the sun and then it starts. The last thing we asked from the bike supplier is a special tool that you insert into the bottlecage hole with thread on, and you pull it tight, almost like a pop rivet gun. Needles to say that was the problem from the start and much time and money wasted. Good luck.
Pieter Carl Taljaard Posted February 18, 2020 Author Posted February 18, 2020 Hi guys thanks for all the feedback, just a quick update... I took the bicycle to Lynwood Cyclery as the Centurion one closed down and it turns our they never replaced the rear suspension or the wheel bearing, after a hefty argument, as I was invoiced for it and told it was done. They are now replacing them, lets hope this sorts it out as I honestly don`t trust the brand anymore. Holding thumbs.
Jewbacca Posted February 18, 2020 Posted February 18, 2020 Yoh.... Loving the name and shame straight from the hip! Pure Savage and Eddy Gordo 2
CharlesV Posted February 18, 2020 Posted February 18, 2020 Hi guys thanks for all the feedback, just a quick update... I took the bicycle to Lynwood Cyclery as the Centurion one closed down and it turns our they never replaced the rear suspension or the wheel bearing, after a hefty argument, as I was invoiced for it and told it was done. They are now replacing them, lets hope this sorts it out as I honestly don`t trust the brand anymore. Holding thumbs.I had the same click on a 2019 Stumpjumper, asked Stellenbosch Spez to sort it out, but click was back after one ride. Put Spanjaard copper compound (From Takelot) on the seatpost and the click is gone till today.
Butterbean Posted February 18, 2020 Posted February 18, 2020 Clicks suck balls. Normally I'm okay at finding them, sometimes they get chased for agers and you almost wanna sell your bike to find peace... My list of where to look, incase you haven't found a capable shop: Seatpost Saddle rails into saddle body, if they're loose, they'll click Saddle rail clamps. Don't grease, just run clean and dry Seatpost clamp interface. Clean and dry Grease the Seatpost Pedal threads into cranksCleats on pedals Tighten up clasping systems on shoes Grease rear axle, especially if its a QR Tighten and grease cassette. Make sure rear derailer bolt threads are tight and greased Check your cables where the rub or intersect each other Check that spoke intersections are clean and all spokes are tensioned Obviously bottom bracket and pivots if you have them Some BBs need special bits to stop creaking. My anthem pressfit now has a Wheels Manufacturing thread together BB to sort it. Check your headset, bars and stem clamping surfaces. Check the ends of gear and brake cables, make sure they don't hit anything during a pedal stroke. Pedal bearingsInspect frame for cracks From this list, seeing if it happens ooy when seated normally means seat related. Only in some gears may be cable related. Everything else needs a full check. Lastly, checking, cleaning, and greasing all these bits, where necessary, can't hurt. It's a good thing to have this long look over your bike anyway, so just be patient and enjoy it.
Hairy Posted February 18, 2020 Posted February 18, 2020 Last two "clicks" I had on my bikes. 1. Most Recent = the chainring had to be torqued up (raceface thingie mabob direct mount)2. Previous one = crack to frame near BB on downtube I hope it is no.1 for you.
Hairy Posted February 18, 2020 Posted February 18, 2020 Dry Epoxy in the BB shell Pitcha's first Mongoose! and MORNE 2
Gideondv Posted February 18, 2020 Posted February 18, 2020 Check your spider (If you have one). Caused my click.
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