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To open the PD-M540 Pandora's box?


straatvark

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For me the only way to "feel" if the MTB pedal bearings are fine is to take it out of the cranks and spin the axel by hand. Now obviously this dont happen to often, but so it did tonight on the 6 month old set.... The Lefty was clearly already in trouble, but Mr Right was still fine.

 

So I opened both sides, cleaned and re-packed. (Not a quick task with those small bearings, so there was heavy discussions between me and the little buggers) But I'm afraid that Lefty will never be new again with only grease replacement. Confused 

 

Since 6 months was clearly to long and the tech pdf doc "SI-41R0F" on Shimano state only "If you experience any trouble with the rotating parts of the pedal, the pedal may require adjustment. Obtain advice from a professional dealer."

 

For me that say open only when you feel something wrong, but then it might be to late...

 

So:

How often do one check your MTB pedal by spinning it?

How often should they be re-packed?

Should i have left Mr Right closed because I dont "feel" problems?

 

Thanks
straatvark2008-07-01 14:55:03
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This is a good and bad question. Bad, in that it may require you to do some extra servicing on your bike that you could really do without. Let's face it, you'd rather spend some quality time with your lawnmower than open those bearings again.

 

My answer is that you should open them at least once a year and repack them. Buy new balls and replace them as a matter of routine. In between your annual service, spin them on or off the bike and see if any one is gritty or even spins too freely. A pedal that spins too freely has loose cones, reduced lubrication and worn seals. There should be some seal drag, lubrication drag and bearing drag. A bearing that's too loose will spin better but only load one or two bearings at a time, whereas a tighter bearing will load more balls and hence reduce wear.

 

If you put your ear against your seatpost and spin those pedals, you'll quickly hear if the bearings rumble (bad) or whizz (good).

 

Repacking once a year is a big thumbsuck. Obviously if you do a dirty, filthy muddy race, the bearings may be contaminated the day after their last service.

 

 

 
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Johan where would you buy new balls' date=' bike shop? or elsewhere?[/quote']

 

There was a thread here a week or two ago where I wrote extensively on the merits of bearing balls.  Search and see if you can find it. Point was, fine bike components such as Shimano 105 and up and most Campag, requires Grade (Class) 20 balls whereas in South Africa I have to date not yet find a source of these balls. The best you can find here are Grade 100, which have aberations five times larger than their Grade 20 cousins.

 

Bike shops don't know the difference and their sources cannot tell me either.

 

Therefore I buy balls from Loosescrews.com.

 

I'm putting an order together right now, if anyone wants to share postage with me.

 
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Johan where would you buy new balls' date=' bike shop? or elsewhere?[/quote']

 

you have to grow them. But if you're married you'll never get them back. LOL

 

Okay, I'm outa here.

 

 

 

 
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Buy new balls and replace them as a matter of routine.

 

Yes, and grow a spine while you're at it! Angry LOL

 

 

 

 

 

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Guest Big H

Ek het vir jou Chapter 14 - Adjustable Cone/Cup Pedals van die Barnes Cycling manual ge- email. Lees maar daardeur.

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Johan where would you buy new balls' date=' bike shop? or elsewhere?[/quote']

 

There was a thread here a week or two ago where I wrote extensively on the merits of bearing balls.  Search and see if you can find it. Point was, fine bike components such as Shimano 105 and up and most Campag, requires Grade (Class) 20 balls whereas in South Africa I have to date not yet find a source of these balls. The best you can find here are Grade 100, which have aberations five times larger than their Grade 20 cousins.

 

Bike shops don't know the difference and their sources cannot tell me either.

 

Therefore I buy balls from Loosescrews.com.

 

I'm putting an order together right now, if anyone wants to share postage with me.

 

 

JB, the 316 bearings I got from Bearingman refer to the steel grade, not the bearing grade.

 

"KMS Bearings Inc. manufactures radial ball bearings utilizing type 316 stainless  which provides superior corrosion resistance when compared to conventional 440 stainless bearings. AISI 316 is more resistant to atmospheric and general corrosive conditions than any of the other standard stainless steels. 316 stainless is widely used in the food and medical industries. Bearings produced from this type of steel can run in liquids or can run dry at slow speeds."

 
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Ek het vir jou Chapter 14 - Adjustable Cone/Cup Pedals van die Barnes Cycling manual ge- email. Lees maar daardeur.

 

Vir wie is dit BigH? Ek het nog niks ontvang nie, maar as dit nog op pad is baie dankie Wink
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Guest Big H
Ek het vir jou Chapter 14 - Adjustable Cone/Cup Pedals van die Barnes Cycling manual ge- email. Lees maar daardeur.

 

Vir wie is dit BigH? Ek het nog niks ontvang nie' date=' maar as dit nog op pad is baie dankie Wink
[/quote']

 

Sorry my dom!!!!! PM vir my jou email adres en ek mail dit vir jou ook. Mampara se mail kom tansd by hom uit sonder die attachment. Ek is siek by die huis en sal dit more van die werk af aanstuur.
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Thanks JB

 

I would be interrested in bearings - will PM you my list.

 

A practical problem I experienced was that if I fill the pedal with to much grease before I insert the axel - it pops out the rubber seal because it has to escape somewhere. (Had seen a car flywheel that was stucked removed with this same concept before)

 

A good old grease nipple on the pedal would have been nice Smile
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JB' date=' the 316 bearings I got from Bearingman refer to the steel grade, not the bearing grade.

 

"KMS Bearings Inc. manufactures radial ball bearings utilizing type 316 stainless  which provides superior corrosion resistance when compared to conventional 440 stainless bearings. AISI 316 is more resistant to atmospheric and general corrosive conditions than any of the other standard stainless steels. 316 stainless is widely used in the food and medical industries. Bearings produced from this type of steel can run in liquids or can run dry at slow speeds."

 
[/quote']

 

Yes, I know. I discussed that here very recently as well, perhaps with you? I don't recall the mention of 316 but to address the point: "superior corrosion resistance" is a myth in bearings. You'll see, they rust like anything else. It is simply because stainless steel makes for a very poor bearing and the use of chrome in the steel is therefore limited.

 

Further, once there is water in there, the balls still suffer because the real superior steel races rust, depositing gritty iron oxide into the grease, crunching the balls. This is evident from examining them with a magnifying glass. I make my students all look at their balls so that they can get an idea of what happens inside that crucible of water, grease, grit and force.

 

In summary, the bearings (no mater what grade of steel), you buy from Bearingman are inferior because they are not as round as we'd like to have them in our superior hubs - Shimano and Campag. It's no use having a bearing made from nice steel when it is square.

 

 
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 [...]
I make my students all look at their balls so that they can get an idea of what happens inside [...]

 

 

 

 

is that a group thing then? or single lessons?

 

Big%20smile

 

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Guest Big H

I see in the new Bicycling Magazine they advertise Ceramic Balls....... are they any good. For the price they must be??????

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I see in the new Bicycling Magazine they advertise Ceramic Balls....... are they any good. For the price they must be??????

 

Oom I'm not sure about 'good' but I don't think they'll make me or you go any faster that's for sure ..........
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My boetie has some of those tea service bearings in his radio control cars ...... apparently you just have to blow lightly on the wheels and they turn!

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