Is the price right for this hardtail

[117]

It changes the angle of your fork to be more slack (ie: a slightly longer wheel base), without changing any major components on the frame

https://9point8.ca/collections/slack-r-kits 

If you buy that HT, just know the lauf fork is very specific for its intended use. You'll hate it on the first single track you hit. 

[TheoG]

22 minutes ago, 117 said:

It changes the angle of your fork to be more slack (ie: a slightly longer wheel base), without changing any major components on the frame

https://9point8.ca/collections/slack-r-kits 

If you buy that HT, just know the lauf fork is very specific for its intended use. You'll hate it on the first single track you hit. 

I got a 1.5 deg slack-r on my 2013 RM frame (very un-slack) and it does make a big difference.

Stick with the Methanol, much more capable bike imho.

Edited March 27, 2023 by TheoG

[Shebeen]

On 3/25/2023 at 10:04 PM, RobertWhitehead said:

Just sad to see that the chain is too short 😜

the fact that this is the gear he chose to post the advert photos in is concerning about how the bike was looked after.

[Scott roy]

3 minutes ago, Shebeen said:

the fact that this is the gear he chose to post the advert photos in is concerning about how the bike was looked after.

Out of curiosity, just how bad is it to run a chain that short? 

[RobertWhitehead]

27 minutes ago, Scott roy said:

Out of curiosity, just how bad is it to run a chain that short? 

It wears the big fat spring on the rear mech that controls the cage and then it turns into a "slap-noodle". The other thing: you will start noticing some chain drop in the front as the rear mechs spring works against the length of the chain. The sciency bit with the spring wanting to return to its natural resting position and the chain not allowing it. 

Whilst typing this I just wondered if this can also contribute to wear of the drive train faster than normal . But this I will leave to the folks who knows more than me. 

PS: I do not know everything and the above is my opinion, please don't take this as gospel or the absolute truth. 

[Scott roy]

5 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:

It wears the big fat spring on the rear mech that controls the cage and then it turns into a "slap-noodle". The other thing: you will start noticing some chain drop in the front as the rear mechs spring works against the length of the chain. The sciency bit with the spring wanting to return to its natural resting position and the chain not allowing it. 

Whilst typing this I just wondered if this can also contribute to wear of the drive train faster than normal . But this I will leave to the folks who knows more than me. 

PS: I do not know everything and the above is my opinion, please don't take this as gospel or the absolute truth. 

Surly that would be if you if you stick to say granny gear or at least the top 3? If you rode in say the lower two thirds of the cassette it won’t have more tension than just one cog bigger for a correctly lengthen chain?

 

I'm just curious because I just fitted a larger chainring and I noticed my chain is a bit short, not as short as the above one but still a bit short. 

[TheoG]

11 minutes ago, Scott roy said:

Surly that would be if you if you stick to say granny gear or at least the top 3? If you rode in say the lower two thirds of the cassette it won’t have more tension than just one cog bigger for a correctly lengthen chain?

 

I'm just curious because I just fitted a larger chainring and I noticed my chain is a bit short, not as short as the above one but still a bit short. 

The bigger issue for me is, is the biked stored/sleeping in that largest gear?  That will make the derailleur spring go "pap" in no time.

Edit:  Always store your bike with the chain on the smallest (10 or 11 teeth) gear.

Edited March 27, 2023 by TheoG

[Scott roy]

1 minute ago, TheoG said:

The bigger issue for me is, is the biked stored/sleeping in that largest gear?  That will make the derailleur spring go "pap" in no time.

That’s how I’ve always viewed it as well ,bike always gets stored in smallest cog. I mean the bike only gets ridden for a very small percentage of its overall lifespan 

[RobertWhitehead]

41 minutes ago, Scott roy said:

That’s how I’ve always viewed it as well ,bike always gets stored in smallest cog. I mean the bike only gets ridden for a very small percentage of its overall lifespan 

Buuuuuut, if and when you are in the granny gear you're normally pushing the watts to overcome the monster of a climb lying ahead of you and if you then have an oval in the front it will cause more movement and stress on the rear mech. It is true that you do not spend a lot of time in the upper part of the cassette and you will most likely not have an issue during the lifetime of the chain / rear mech. It is just such a simple fix to get it sorted and it is also convenient to tap the keyboard in my comfy chair criticizing the kit of others . 

[droo]

2 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said:

It wears the big fat spring on the rear mech that controls the cage and then it turns into a "slap-noodle". The other thing: you will start noticing some chain drop in the front as the rear mechs spring works against the length of the chain. The sciency bit with the spring wanting to return to its natural resting position and the chain not allowing it. 

Whilst typing this I just wondered if this can also contribute to wear of the drive train faster than normal . But this I will leave to the folks who knows more than me. 

PS: I do not know everything and the above is my opinion, please don't take this as gospel or the absolute truth. 

The spring going pap isn't really an issue - the two big ones are breaking stuff if the chain is too short to make the big/big combo, and the fact that on the horizontal parallelogram RD designs, the distance between the top pulley and the cassette is controlled by the offset between the pulley and the pivot point, which is in turn controlled by the angular position of the cage. This makes the chain length crucial to achieving the best shifting, and chain length on Eagle drivetrains is typically one link shorter than you think.

Drivetrain wear is a total non-issue from this, think of the chain tension from pedalling compared to a derailleur spring... that spring won't get you moving even on a flat piece of road.