Tacet Posted June 21 Share Hi all, Does anyone know of a bike shop in Pretoria that can do pedal thread repairs? I somehow stripped the thread on an XX1 crankarm (right hand side), so would love to get an insert in rather than replace the crankarm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prince Albert Cycles Posted June 21 Share 10 minutes ago, Tacet said: Hi all, Does anyone know of a bike shop in Pretoria that can do pedal thread repairs? I somehow stripped the thread on an XX1 crankarm (right hand side), so would love to get an insert in rather than replace the crankarm. Rook Popich can do it . Take the arm to Bruce he will organize it BruceReynekeCycles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacet Posted June 21 Share 18 minutes ago, Prince Albert Cycles said: Rook Popich can do it . Take the arm to Bruce he will organize it Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prince Albert Cycles Posted June 22 Share 10 hours ago, Tacet said: Thanks! Sorry my spelling it’s Rocco Popich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacet Posted July 1 Share Update I took it to Bruce's (on the super dirty bicycle, I was racing there to catch them before closing time). They sent it on to Rocco, who put a heliocoil in. Total cost about R650. It seems pretty solid, though I'll reduce the number of pedal-swops I do a bit. All in all, I'm very happy not to have had to replace XX1 cranks! Andro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertWhitehead Posted July 2 Share 10 hours ago, Tacet said: Update I took it to Bruce's (on the super dirty bicycle, I was racing there to catch them before closing time). They sent it on to Rocco, who put a heliocoil in. Total cost about R650. It seems pretty solid, though I'll reduce the number of pedal-swops I do a bit. All in all, I'm very happy not to have had to replace XX1 cranks! I suppose you pay for the "know-how" and experience as a heli-coil and it's tool is less than one blue Mandela Mook 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmarc Posted July 2 Share 4 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said: I suppose you pay for the "know-how" and experience as a heli-coil and it's tool is less than one blue Mandela Its having the correct tools and inserts as well as the know how - I have both and would have probably charged the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betaboy Posted July 2 Share Having experienced Bikehubber help. Priceless, for everything else, there is Matercard. 🤛🏻 Prince Albert Cycles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacet Posted July 2 Share 8 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said: I suppose you pay for the "know-how" and experience as a heli-coil and it's tool is less than one blue Mandela And availability. I couldn’t find 9/16” repair kits locally, and I didn’t want to try an M14 only to find out that the pedal doesn’t fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmarc Posted July 2 Share 32 minutes ago, Tacet said: And availability. I couldn’t find 9/16” repair kits locally, and I didn’t want to try an M14 only to find out that the pedal doesn’t fit. The repair Tap is 5/8" X 24 TPI not easy to find and the left hand tap is almost impossible to find locally ChrisF and mazambaan 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazambaan Posted July 5 Share It isn't Pretoria but I think I have a related problem. Giant eTrance, LBS had it about a year ago for a few things including new motor bearings and took it upon themselves to replace my battered and loose flat pedals with some used plastic flat pedals that I really only noticed when I next rode the bike. I meant to raise the issue but didn't use them again (other grumbles) until I decided to replace the pedals, now also battered and loose, a few weeks ago. Pedal spanner didn't budge them (actually stripped the soft BBB spanner) and neither did the 6mm Allen key, first just a long key, then a 3/8" drive breaker bar and finally a 1/2" breaker bar. Then heat, vice and Makita rattle gun, no hint of movement. Yes, it was all loosen to the rear, left and right. Bear with me; only now, defeated, do I inspect more closely. Only marking on pedals is K 1283 and VP-573-R (on one pedal) and L on the other. Now the plot thickens, maybe sickeningly, as R was on the LHS of the bike and the pedal slope was up where it is normally down 🤑. The L pedal, with some markings on the 15mm hex was on the RHS 🙃. This is not good at all 👺. Question: Can you really cross thread the pedals as these appear to have been and get them to seat? Then: is this fixable, eventually pedals are extracted (I probably have to revert to said LBS)? ChrisF 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmarc Posted July 5 Share 22 minutes ago, mazambaan said: It isn't Pretoria but I think I have a related problem. Giant eTrance, LBS had it about a year ago for a few things including new motor bearings and took it upon themselves to replace my battered and loose flat pedals with some used plastic flat pedals that I really only noticed when I next rode the bike. I meant to raise the issue but didn't use them again (other grumbles) until I decided to replace the pedals, now also battered and loose, a few weeks ago. Pedal spanner didn't budge them (actually stripped the soft BBB spanner) and neither did the 6mm Allen key, first just a long key, then a 3/8" drive breaker bar and finally a 1/2" breaker bar. Then heat, vice and Makita rattle gun, no hint of movement. Yes, it was all loosen to the rear, left and right. Bear with me; only now, defeated, do I inspect more closely. Only marking on pedals is K 1283 and VP-573-R (on one pedal) and L on the other. Now the plot thickens, maybe sickeningly, as R was on the LHS of the bike and the pedal slope was up where it is normally down 🤑. The L pedal, with some markings on the 15mm hex was on the RHS 🙃. This is not good at all 👺. Question: Can you really cross thread the pedals as these appear to have been and get them to seat? Then: is this fixable, eventually pedals are extracted (I probably have to revert to said LBS)? I'm a bit lost here Are you saying th pedal marked L is mounted on the drive side crank and the R market pedal is mounted on the non-drive side ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazambaan Posted July 5 Share 2 minutes ago, madmarc said: I'm a bit lost here Are you saying th pedal marked L is mounted on the drive side crank and the R market pedal is mounted on the non-drive side ? Yebo, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmarc Posted July 5 Share Just now, mazambaan said: Yebo, yes. I would love to meet that mechanic that was able to thread a L-hand thread into a R-Hand threaded crank and visa versa - The threads should'nt even pick up. If they did then its seriously cross threaded - did you try loosening the L-hand pedal in the wrong direction ? Even cross threaded it should come out but the threads will be toast Just another point when using a hex wrench depending on where you sitting when loosening the pedal. If you sitting on the drive side loosening the non-drive pedal (kind of working through the frame) with a hex wrench you turn the wrench anticlockwise. With even some good mechanics, they dont grasp the concept L-hand thread is clockwise to loosen the pedal towards you, so you be sitting facing the pedal L-hand thread is anti-clockwise to loosen the thread away from you, so you be sitting on the drive side working through or underneath the frame. Opposite applies for the R-Hand pedal mazambaan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted July 5 Share 1 hour ago, mazambaan said: Question: Can you really cross thread the pedals as these appear to have been and get them to seat? Then: is this fixable, eventually pedals are extracted (I probably have to revert to said LBS)? Met genoeg geweld kan jy jou vinger in jou poephol afbreek. Fixable with a set of inserts and the right oke to put them in, but if the threads are that knackered you may end up with a wobbly pedal. First check pricing on a replacement crankset, saving the old one may not be worth the effort. mazambaan and Dusty 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted July 6 Share Just had a random thought, if both sets of pedals are flats it's possible the cranks are on backwards. It's possible with ebike cranks. Dusty, mazambaan and ChrisF 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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