Johan Bornman Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Maybe hijacking this thread a bit' date=' but JOHAN, when is your next suspension course in cape town, AND will it include both the front and rear shock ? As i reckon the back shock needs as much services as the front one And lastly when will you have all the seals and washers ready for us, [/quote'] Next fork workshop in Cape Town on 14 August. Fully booked. You can go on standby in case one of the guys can't make it on the day. Next Repair and Maintenance course in CT on 15 and 16 August. One space left. Neeeeext Fork workshop in Cape Town on Friday 16 October. Wide open Neeeext Repair and Maintenance course in Cape Town, 17 and 18 October. Two places left. I have a very interesting student on this course but I cannot let the cat out of the bag....half the okes that lurk in that very long other thread will immediately book for all the wrong reasons.
mountain_lion Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Next fork workshop in Cape Town on 14 August. Fully booked. You can go on standby in case one of the guys can't make it on the day. Next Repair and Maintenance course in CT on 15 and 16 August. One space left. Neeeeext Fork workshop in Cape Town on Friday 16 October. Wide open Neeeext Repair and Maintenance course in Cape Town' date=' 17 and 18 October. Two places left. I have a very interesting student on this course but I cannot let the cat out of the bag....half the okes that lurk in that very long other thread will immediately book for all the wrong reasons. [/quote'] Johan, is your CT wheel building course still happening in September?I am temped, but for R3400, I can have many wheels trued at the LBS...
straatvark Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Johan' date=' is your CT wheel building course still happening in September?I am temped, but for R3400, I can have many wheels trued at the LBS... [/quote'] If I can chip in here... Yes a lot of money and don't think I made it back in the year+ since my course with JB. But did not have a SINGLE wheel problem since (including our tandem wheels) Made some money back with wheels for friends or referred "customers", but did it more for practice than to make money. Now if I accumalate my hours and fristration for driving back to LBS's to fix newly build wheels... It is VERY practical with lots of touchable examples. With your academic background you should glide through the theory. EDIT: oh yes and JB don't hold back on tips and tricks that make so much sense after. straatvark2009-07-30 15:08:50
Johan Bornman Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Thanks Straatvark. You forgot to tell them that you flew up to Jhb for the course, adding another couple rands. Also, you have to purchase a set of hubs, rims and spokes in order to build your own set. Guys, if you're thinking of doing the wheelbuilding course just to true a few wheels, you're wasting your money. I can show you that in 30 minutes. The wheelbuilding course is for people who are serious about building wheels and who would like to understand how wheels work. It deals with all the components and you learn how to spot and select the best of the best. You'll learn the weaknesses of common commercial wheels and rims and, techniques to address those. You should walk away from that course in full understanding of how wheels work, build, fail etc etc. Further, you get a wheel truing stand worth about R1100, a copy of the Bible of wheelbuilding that costs $25 plus import costs and...dont forget this one, a world famous Yellow Saddle workshop apron. I almost forgot the spoke spanner. However, R3400 is a lot of money. If there is a need for a one-day course where I simply show you how to build a wheel, I'll do it. Talk to me. The September date is scheduled but I have to have a reasonable class in order to do it.
Johan Bornman Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 And lastly when will you have all the seals and washers ready for us' date=' [/quote'] Captain, I have the crush washers ready in small quantities right now. I'll ramp up production in a few weeks. (That sounds so pompous....I'll get Philemon to make lots more, quite soon). The wiper seals are a little way off, but getting there.
mountain_lion Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 Thanks for the replies re wheel building, but lets start a new thread on that before completely hijacking this one...
JA-Q001 Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 Okey, so I did a little bit of shopping around and saw some all purpose oil from SINGER, the oil is very thin and on the bottle it says its a ISO VG 10 (Viscosity). What viscosity is the SAE 5WT oil?
Pappa Bear Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 Hi, Can anybody give me some advice on a Mazorcchi 888 Downhill fork..... I strugel to get / use the last 30m of travel on the fork. Th etech. Manual says that I must reduce the oil volume which I did (from 220ml to 200ml per leg). Still not working also changed the oil to (1/4 - W10) and (3/4 - W5)...... Thanks
JA-Q001 Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 Hi' date=' Can anybody give me some advice on a Mazorcchi 888 Downhill fork..... I strugel to get / use the last [b']30m[/b] of travel on the fork. Th etech. Manual says that I must reduce the oil volume which I did (from 220ml to 200ml per leg). Still not working also changed the oil to (1/4 - W10) and (3/4 - W5)...... Thanks BIG SHOCK!!!
Pappa Bear Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 well spotted. My brain is a bit faster than my fingers
Hairy Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 BUMP ... just because there is so much valuable information in here! Hairy
techguy Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 Motorex does fork oils in all the above viscosities that one will ever need, its available from any half decent LBS or the guys at KTM also bring it in.
techguy Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 That is the million dollar question. Unlike all the other fork companies' date=' Manitou, being French and thus otherwise, don't publish volumes. They publish levels, but don't show you where to measure the level from. They'll say 72mm of oil. Therefore what you do is reassemble the whole thing, put the 16ml of lube oil into each lower let, redo the bolts etc etc. Then, you take of the top left cap and pour some oil into the damper. You manipulate the legs up and down until no more bubbles come out of the oil/damper submersion. Then you add a bit more oil. How much is a bit? I don't know, but it should be enough to cover the damper when the fork is fully compressed. If you put in too little, the lockout wont work (neither the damper, but lockout is either on, or off). If you put in too much, the oil can push out the top cap or through the shaft seals during hard compression. Manitou does publish the service guides but keep a few things secret. Damn frogs! PS - the foot nut on the one side in a Manitou is strange. It screw in, using an 8mm allen key. It is not a left hand thread, but screws in, rather than out. [/quote'] Manitou is actuallyan American brand, developed by Doug Bradbury. and you measure the oil level from the top of the fork with the compression/lockout damper out.
techguy Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 That is the million dollar question. Unlike all the other fork companies' date=' Manitou, being French and thus otherwise, don't publish volumes. They publish levels, but don't show you where to measure the level from. They'll say 72mm of oil. Therefore what you do is reassemble the whole thing, put the 16ml of lube oil into each lower let, redo the bolts etc etc. Then, you take of the top left cap and pour some oil into the damper. You manipulate the legs up and down until no more bubbles come out of the oil/damper submersion. Then you add a bit more oil. How much is a bit? I don't know, but it should be enough to cover the damper when the fork is fully compressed. If you put in too little, the lockout wont work (neither the damper, but lockout is either on, or off). If you put in too much, the oil can push out the top cap or through the shaft seals during hard compression. Manitou does publish the service guides but keep a few things secret. Damn frogs! PS - the foot nut on the one side in a Manitou is strange. It screw in, using an 8mm allen key. It is not a left hand thread, but screws in, rather than out. [/quote'] Manitou is actually an American brand developed by Doug Bradbury.The oil level is measured from the top of the fork with the damper assembly removed, to the top of the oil, basically you need a dipstick setup...
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