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Posted

One for the vintage MTB collectors, Bridgestone MB-4 Trailblazer with a Shimano LX group. It is about a 1988 model and rides remarkably well for such an old bike. It is fitted with a touring saddle and have all the fittings for conversion to a touring bike. I bought the bikes as a pair. It belonged to a husband and wife and the one is a bit smaller than the other. All steel. post-51655-0-44797600-1490359927_thumb.jpgpost-51655-0-83658700-1490359949_thumb.jpg

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Posted

One for the vintage MTB collectors, Bridgestone MB-4 Trailblazer with a Shimano LX group. It is about a 1988 model and rides remarkably well for such an old bike. It is fitted with a touring saddle and have all the fittings for conversion to a touring bike. I bought the bikes as a pair. It belonged to a husband and wife and the one is a bit smaller than the other. All steel. attachicon.gif20170321_180527_resized.jpgattachicon.gif20170321_140501_resized.jpg

Interesting one for you on these; you can easily convert to 700c on these frames and create a wonderful gravel grinder.  My MB5 is my favourite bike to ride

Posted

Interesting one for you on these; you can easily convert to 700c on these frames and create a wonderful gravel grinder.  My MB5 is my favourite bike to ride

Thanks, I am going to definitely look into that.

Posted

My 1982 Colnago restoration is coming along . See picture .

I am a Campag man but when I bought the old Colnago it had about 60% Gippieme parts so I decided to make it full Gippieme .

After waiting patiently for several weeks for a rear derailleur I found to my horror that it won't fit . See picture . This derailleur has a bolt through fitting wheras my frame provides for a screw in fit .

So who can help ?

And then this one is available .

Also looking for for rear wheels adjusters , see picture .

And a nice Italian 26.8 seatpost will be nice .post-62084-0-13796300-1490791197_thumb.jpgpost-62084-0-05010900-1490791221_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Not an exotic  Italian race frame . . 

But I got this piece SA steel back  in the road again this weekend. 

 

My 1st "barn-find" since the vintage steel bug sank its Reynolds teeth into me.  :blush:

 

Le Jeune Super Prestige.   Reynolds 708.     60cm CTC top tube. 

 

Apparently 708 was not used much, and it was more for "bigger riders"/bigger frames.

It had a sort of 8 ribs or flat sections running in the length for extra strength, and thus added weight,   

The chain- and set-stays section used on 708 frame was apparently from Reynolds 753. 

(Courtesy of Wikipedia) (Don't quote me on this) 

 

Got it  with Full Shimano 600 group-set.

 

Did a complete tear-down, cleaned everything up.  

Had a  part made for the seat bolt.

Redid the brake levers with new plastic and rubbers hoods. 

New cables and chain and brake-pads 

 

Got some spare parts I needed in the from of hubs and derailleurs from hubber,  Eppie  in CT. (a super gentleman and always willing to help a newbie)

 

Added my Brooks  and swapped a shorter stem as the frame a  bit big for me. 

 

 

Took it  out for a 50km on Sunday and man, I  like it a lot.  

(coming from a "MTB only"   guy like me)  

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Edited by IH8MUD
Posted

I have a friend that's looking for a complete vintage Pinarello. Any size. Please let me know if there's anything available. 

Posted

Not an exotic  Italian race frame . . 

But I got this piece SA steel back  in the road again this weekend. 

 

My 1st "barn-find" since the vintage steel bug sank its Reynolds teeth into me.  :blush:

 

Le Jeune Prestige.   Reynolds 708.     60cm CTC top tube. 

 

Apparently 708 was not used much, and it was more for "bigger riders"/bigger frames.

It had a sort of 8 ribs or flat sections running in the length for extra strength, and thus added weight,   

The chain- and set-stays section used on 708 frame was apparently from Reynolds 753. 

(Courtesy of Wikipedia) (Don't quote me on this) 

 

Got it  with Full Shimano 600 group-set.

 

Did a complete tear-down, cleaned everything up.  

Had a  part made for the seat bolt.

Redid the brake levers with new plastic and rubbers hoods. 

New cables and chain. 

 

Got some spare parts I needed in the from of hubs and derailleurs from hubber,  Eppie  in CT. (a super gentleman and always willing to help a newbie)

 

Added my Brooks  and swapped a shorter stem as the frame a  bit big for me. 

 

 

Took it  out for a 50km on Sunday and man, I  like it a lot.  

(coming from a "MTB only"   guy like me)  

Absolute beauty

Posted

Can anyone with the knowledge please assist me? I want to buy a vintage bike. My height is 1,82 cm and my inseam in 89,5 cm.

 

Please advise what size Wilier Superleggera I must look at? Am I correct that the seatpost should a about a "fist" height above the top tube - not for sizing but to get the look right too as the seat tubes of the bikes of that   era where much longer creating a higher top tube than the modern bikes of today.

 

Assistance greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

Thanks Gerhard

 

 

Posted

You can google or browse YouTube but it's known that a cyclist is the most efficient when the saddle height is 109% of the cyclists inner leg measurement.

 

Saddle height measured from top of saddle down the seat tube through the centre of the bottom bracket down the crank arm to the centre of the pedal axle.

 

Make a rough calculation and then add a few mm's for the your sole of your shoes. Once you have this measurement you need to deduct crank arm length and estimated amount of the saddle depth and seat post (extruding out of the frame).

 

This will then give you a frame size (measured centre to top) for a retro, 80's or earlier frame. Smaller frames generally have less seatpost length showing than larger frames. I can't recall the present percentage but a 57cm frame should have approximately 10cm of the post sticking out the seat tube.

 

A quick and dirty sizing method is take your inside leg measurement and subtract a third from it. So using your inner 89.5cm it gives you a frame size of 59.7cm (60cm ctc).

 

Hope that makes sense?

Posted

No problem, please note it only works with traditional frame geometry and not any sloping top tubes.

 

Top tube length is also important. Shorter top tube to seat tube makes for lower bar position for racing but would be a pain in the back for touring.

 

The shorter distance between the front and rear axles make for twitchy steering and pedal overlap of front wheel (track bikes being the extreme) whilst a longer stretched wheel base make for a comfy ride for touring and general riding.

Posted

No problem, please note it only works with traditional frame geometry and not any sloping top tubes.

 

Top tube length is also important. Shorter top tube to seat tube makes for lower bar position for racing but would be a pain in the back for touring.

 

The shorter distance between the front and rear axles make for twitchy steering and pedal overlap of front wheel (track bikes being the extreme) whilst a longer stretched wheel base make for a comfy ride for touring and general riding.

Thanks a lot, looking forward to be joining you guys on a vintage bike soon!

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