Fox RP23 shock

[Johan Bornman]

A rear shock Is a can of worms Drew..I'd just leave it up to them. I have seen plenty of explosions with rear shocks in my life. Front shock is a different story though. If youre up to that I'd say go bos' date=' I services my Fox and my Manitou Sherman my self. I dont service my revelation myself, just cause I service it like once a year, and its R200 ..Just cant be to spun, so I let the LBS do both in one go.[/quote']

 

One man's can of worms is another's breakfast. Shocks are quite daunting at first, but they're all consistent and once you've done one, you can probably busk the next one.

 

I really think any reasonably-competent DIYer can do the air sleeve service.

 

For those wondering what an air sleeve is: a rear shock is actually a spring and a shock in one. On some of them you can actually see the spring - it is a steel coil. On others, the spring is compressed air in a can - hence the air cannister moniker. That's the fat part of the shock. The other part of the shock is the damper. That's all built into the thin shaft - usually grey.

 

The two can be serviced independently. The one that needs a service more often, since that's the one that's exposed to dirt, is the air cannister.

 

It has a little bit of oil inside, a few O- or quad-rings and sometimes a proprietary wiper seal of sorts. The DIYer's challenge is sourcing parts and small quantities of the oils and hydraulic grease. The oil required is little (5mls) that buying a gallon of the stuff is criminal.

 

The damper also requires an occasional service since the oil inside works very hard and starts to break down. This is slightly more difficult since you need to get all air out (that's done by drenching your whole workbench in oil, including your feet, socks and the dog).

 

Then you have to inflate it - with NO2 (nitrogen) or sommer just air. The problem here is usually a special adapter that fits into some proprietary valve gadget. I won't suggest a DIYer do this unless he's really determined and his bike shop really annoyed him.

 

If anyone wants consumables in small quantities they're welcome to contact me. I have teensy little containers for grease and oil as well as supplies of O- and Quad-rings.

 

I can even supply instructional PDFs and special tools such as soft jaws for the vice, shaft clamps, pin spanners, strap wrenches, odd-sized allen keys, large hammers, nut whackers (for fork footnuts), seal extractors, crush washers, seals, oil etc etc.

 

BTW - my next fork service workshop in Jhb is on Saturday 10 October in the afternoon. If anyone is interested in an air sleeve service workshop that same morning (perhaps just before the fork service workshop), I'll consider it, depending on demand.

 

The format is usually a short talk, a demo and then hands-on doing the job. It is dirty, slippery and full of surprises (usually supplied by hapless Marzocchi and Manitou owners).

 

 

 

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

Jo' date='  I notice that most of the bushes are metal on metal on the shock assembly. Whats your thoughts on using thin teflon washers as a protection against both surfaces?

[/quote']

 

This is now such a frequently asked question that someone is going to crack and start producing such products soon.

 

You're on the right track, but the solution is not a washer, but an entire bush made of a fancy plastic called Vesconite. It is a job for someone with a lathe and some machining experience but I have no doubt that brussel or some other lathe jockey will soon come up with a Vesconite bush for bicycle suspension pivots.

 

 

[TNOSE_E]

Mmmmm Vesconite

[Brighter-Lights]

 

Jo' date='  I notice that most of the bushes are metal on metal on the shock assembly. Whats your thoughts on using thin teflon washers as a protection against both surfaces?

[/quote']

 

Hi! Most of the shocks I've had, had anodised bushes, but the press in sleeve in the shock's 'eye' was teflon coated.

 

Normally, there's 2 bushes per side. They are supposed to be pressed together by the bold and with the bolt tight, give just enough sideways clearance for the shock to move/rotate around the bushing freely.

 

If there's a bigger gap the shock will have sideways movement on its bushing and then you can add a teflon washer. If the washers are too thick, the bush won't make contact with its other half when tightening the bolt and could add resistance, but worse, have the bolt move in the frame, depending on the type of susp. design and how much the shock rotates at its pivot - some barely move out of line when suspension is compressed.

 

Don't know if what I'm trying to say is very clear...  

Brighter-Lights2009-09-29 02:07:16

[taygan]

Thanks guys for all the advice, won't be doing it myself but will get my LBS to have a look, I think it might be the pivots??

[Bos]

Jo' date='  I notice that most of the bushes are metal on metal on the shock assembly. Whats your thoughts on using thin teflon washers as a protection against both surfaces?

[/quote']

 

This is now such a frequently asked question that someone is going to crack and start producing such products soon.

 

You're on the right track, but the solution is not a washer, but an entire bush made of a fancy plastic called Vesconite. It is a job for someone with a lathe and some machining experience but I have no doubt that brussel or some other lathe jockey will soon come up with a Vesconite bush for bicycle suspension pivots.

 

 

 

Im convinced! Drew mabe we should order a couple of "service's" worth of consumables from johan, my RP2 havnt had a service since september last year. Lockout isnt working so well anymore as I sometimes cant tell which is locked out and which is open

 

On the Vescanite topic, A friend of mine had some Vescanite bushes made for his FS frame, they work amazingly well.

 

Im going to California Desember and have considered Taking my Revelation to get "PUSHED" but Its working so well right now, and I dont want to sit on the other side of a globe when something goes wrong.

 

One last Question, JB, BL mabe someone with experiance can help me. My RP2 Is about 6 years old now (I kept it from my Raleigh RDS which I had yonks ago and then put it on my Cruse.. Like I mentioned above, the lockout doesnt work to well and littlebits of oil is left on the stnction after rides.. Can this all be fixed by replacing some O rings or is It time for a new one? also, Where do I get the nitrogen refill If I deside to do the home job, Or do I leave that bit closed?

 

Last time I got my Shock back from Fox,  the rebound assembly was fitted upside down or something cause If I turned up the rebound It locked the shock out!! I had it sent back and they told me that nothing was wrong! Except that It worked Fine this time..

 

In retrospect.. Im not sendingmy fox in ever again..

[TNOSE_E]

 

Jo' date='  I notice that most of the bushes are metal on metal on the shock assembly. Whats your thoughts on using thin teflon washers as a protection against both surfaces?

[/quote']

 

Hi! Most of the shocks I've had, had anodised bushes, but the press in sleeve in the shock's 'eye' was teflon coated.

 

Normally, there's 2 bushes per side. They are supposed to be pressed together by the bold and with the bolt tight, give just enough sideways clearance for the shock to move/rotate around the bushing freely.

 

If there's a bigger gap the shock will have sideways movement on its bushing and then you can add a teflon washer. If the washers are too thick, the bush won't make contact with its other half when tightening the bolt and could add resistance, but worse, have the bolt move in the frame, depending on the type of susp. design and how much the shock rotates at its pivot - some barely move out of line when suspension is compressed.

 

Don't know if what I'm trying to say is very clear...  

 

It's for a single pivot type. yes I understand the concept of the bush not moving in order for the pivot action to work where it was desighned too. Side ways movement is never good there... 

[Johan Bornman]

 

On the Vescanite topic' date=' A friend of mine had some Vescanite bushes made for his FS frame, they work amazingly well.

 

Im going to California Desember and have considered Taking my Revelation to get "PUSHED" but Its working so well right now, and I dont want to sit on the other side of a globe when something goes wrong.

 

One last Question, JB, BL mabe someone with experiance can help me. My RP2 Is about 6 years old now (I kept it from my Raleigh RDS which I had yonks ago and then put it on my Cruse.. Like I mentioned above, the lockout doesnt work to well and littlebits of oil is left on the stnction after rides.. Can this all be fixed by replacing some O rings or is It time for a new one? also, Where do I get the nitrogen refill If I deside to do the home job, Or do I leave that bit closed?

 

Last time I got my Shock back from Fox,  the rebound assembly was fitted upside down or something cause If I turned up the rebound It locked the shock out!! I had it sent back and they told me that nothing was wrong! Except that It worked Fine this time..

 

In retrospect.. Im not sendingmy fox in ever again..

[/quote']

 

If the lockout doesn't work anymore, it is time for a damper service. This is the one that I said is not really a DIY job because of the shaft clamps, nitrogen etc etc.  Either the oil in there has completely degraded or it has leaked out. The damper can only leak into the air cannister and the oil you see on the damper body (that's the grey smooth thingy that moves in and out of the fat black thingy) is either air cannister lubrication oil or a combination of air cannister and leaked damper oil. It does indicate new seals though.

 

Your lockout story is quite funny. Obviously there is a Japanese mechanic in that shop that had to save face. He fixed the problem but pretended it wasn't there in the first place.  In Japanese (and Afrikaans) culture you're not supposed to probe deeper. Otherwise you have to duel with samurais until one of you die - preferrably both.

 

I got this at the post office this morning. I checked the progress of a parcel via a tracking number I wrote down in my notebook. It was there. En-route, I emptied my post box and also found the parcel notification. I left this in the car and only showed the tracking number at the counter. She insisted the parcel wasn't there yet. Only when I returned with the note (sporting the exact same tracking number) did the parcel suddenly arrive. I challenged her but soon realised that since there are no swords handy, it is futile.

 

Lockout is just an extreme form of compression damping. By increasing compression damping, you are closing a valve that restricts oil flow somewhat. By closing the hole altogether, you are preventing oil flow altogether. If the oil level is too low, lockout stops working even though it will still offer some damping.

 

 

[Bos]

 

On the Vescanite topic' date=' A friend of mine had some Vescanite bushes made for his FS frame, they work amazingly well.

 

Im going to California Desember and have considered Taking my Revelation to get "PUSHED" but Its working so well right now, and I dont want to sit on the other side of a globe when something goes wrong.

 

One last Question, JB, BL mabe someone with experiance can help me. My RP2 Is about 6 years old now (I kept it from my Raleigh RDS which I had yonks ago and then put it on my Cruse.. Like I mentioned above, the lockout doesnt work to well and littlebits of oil is left on the stnction after rides.. Can this all be fixed by replacing some O rings or is It time for a new one? also, Where do I get the nitrogen refill If I deside to do the home job, Or do I leave that bit closed?

 

Last time I got my Shock back from Fox,  the rebound assembly was fitted upside down or something cause If I turned up the rebound It locked the shock out!! I had it sent back and they told me that nothing was wrong! Except that It worked Fine this time..

 

In retrospect.. Im not sendingmy fox in ever again..

[/quote']

 

If the lockout doesn't work anymore, it is time for a damper service. This is the one that I said is not really a DIY job because of the shaft clamps, nitrogen etc etc.  Either the oil in there has completely degraded or it has leaked out. The damper can only leak into the air cannister and the oil you see on the damper body (that's the grey smooth thingy that moves in and out of the fat black thingy) is either air cannister lubrication oil or a combination of air cannister and leaked damper oil. It does indicate new seals though.

 

Your lockout story is quite funny. Obviously there is a Japanese mechanic in that shop that had to save face. He fixed the problem but pretended it wasn't there in the first place.  In Japanese (and Afrikaans) culture you're not supposed to probe deeper. Otherwise you have to duel with samurais until one of you die - preferrably both.

 

I got this at the post office this morning. I checked the progress of a parcel via a tracking number I wrote down in my notebook. It was there. En-route, I emptied my post box and also found the parcel notification. I left this in the car and only showed the tracking number at the counter. She insisted the parcel wasn't there yet. Only when I returned with the note (sporting the exact same tracking number) did the parcel suddenly arrive. I challenged her but soon realised that since there are no swords handy, it is futile.

 

Lockout is just an extreme form of compression damping. By increasing compression damping, you are closing a valve that restricts oil flow somewhat. By closing the hole altogether, you are preventing oil flow altogether. If the oil level is too low, lockout stops working even though it will still offer some damping.

 

 

 

Ok cool, I wil have it sent in then.. that oil leaking is probably the oil from that damper part, which meens my damping probably isnt working what it should anyway.  Johan, Is there a "blow off" for that lockout damning piston? cause I have sometimes forgotten the shock in lock mode and then bombed down a mountain to realise that Im locked out halfway down. Does this must damage the damper/seals/pistons, If there was to be no blow off.

[brianj]

 

I got this at the post office this morning. I checked the progress of a parcel via a tracking number I wrote down in my notebook. It was there. En-route' date=' I emptied my post box and also found the parcel notification. I left this in the car and only showed the tracking number at the counter. She insisted the parcel wasn't there yet. Only when I returned with the note (sporting the exact same tracking number) did the parcel suddenly arrive. I challenged her but soon realised that since there are no swords handy, it is futile. 

[/quote']

 

LOL, had the same thing last week. Had to phone customer care and they told the counter attendant to look again - and it miraculously appeared. Maybe its because it was 3:50....

[Super_mil]

<Hi-Jack>

 

Defnitely will be attending the workshop on the 10th JB.

 

Some Marzocchi fun to had

 

 

 

Would be keen for the air sleeve demo too if possible.

 

<Bye-Jack>

[anthemboy]

Hi Guys' date='

 

I wonder if any one can help...I am getting a loud squeak from my back RP23 fox shock??

 

On Sat ride I put lube all over it and it seemed to soften the noise for a while, but when the lube dried are dripped off it started again.

The shock seems to be working ( going up and down)...Does that mean it just needs oil??

[/quote']

 

I had the same thing.  It was very loud and sounded like an old barn door.  Ask Jo, he was there. 

 

It turned out to be the rear mounting bushes which were moving inside the shock instead of the revolving around the mounting bolt.  When I removed the mounting bolt, the 2 bushes fell out and were black around the outside.  A temp fix was to grease the outside of the bushes so that they rotated without squeaing.  I later added some green loctite to keep them from turning.  My shock went in for a service last week and the bushes were replaced.l

[mountain_lion]

My Fox RP23 is started to leak oil through the air valve when removing the shock pump. Releasing the air pressure by pressing in the valve pin produced a rather large squirt of oil.

 

I hope this can be fixed with a air sleeve service or is a damper service also required?

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

My Fox RP23 is started to leak oil through the air valve when removing the shock pump. Releasing the air pressure by pressing in the valve pin produced a rather large squirt of oil.

I hope this can be fixed with a air sleeve service or is a damper service also required?

 

Unfortunately not. The air sleeve has very little oil in - less than 5ml to start off with - and it is thickish and consumed quite quickly.

 

Therefore, if yours squirted, it indicates a thinner oil and more than 5ml. It can only come from one place - the damper leaked into the air chamber.

 

Time for a full service.

 

 

[mountain_lion]

 

My Fox RP23 is started to leak oil through the air valve when removing the shock pump. Releasing the air pressure by pressing in the valve pin produced a rather large squirt of oil.

 

I hope this can be fixed with a air sleeve service or is a damper service also required?

 

 

Unfortunately not. The air sleeve has very little oil in - less than 5ml to start off with - and it is thickish and consumed quite quickly.

 

Therefore' date=' if yours squirted, it indicates a thinner oil and more than 5ml. It can only come from one place - the damper leaked into the air chamber.

 

Time for a full service.

[/quote']

 

Thanks for the bad news JB; I thought this might be the case.

Will get the LBS to send it in to the agents.

Shock has been in use for one year since new. Will check Sporttracks for kms tonight.

 

 

[Kritzie]

Johan.

 

My fox 100 rl after riding a bumpy course had some oil residue left on the tubes, both sides, the oil was running from the top of the tubes where the shock reached its maximum travel, not a lot of oil but it bothers me as the shock is still brand new not even 300km done on it!

 

Is this normal or should I have it checked?