Front rotor touching Pads

[david16v]

Hey guys,

 

Maybe someone can answer this question,

 

On Several occasions when I transport my bike I remove the front wheel and install the brake block.

Once I get to my destination I re-install the front wheel.

Now all of a sudden my rotor touches my pads?? This happens quite often. (System has been cleaned and rebled several days ago, new pads also installed at the same time)

 

I re-align the caliper to the disk and everything sounds fine until I ride.

The rotor touches the pads slighlty when my shock is off `lockout`.

When I `lockout` there is no noise??? Very strange!

 

Rotor is about 1500km old, could this be the problem?

[jacostrydom]

"Rotor" should last 10 000+ km's. What type of breaks?

[Gillie]

Hi David

 

Does it happen that when you pull the brake slightly the "grinding" disappears?

 

I have the same issue and saw that adjusting where the brake gets bolted to the fork, helps a bit, but it is annoying, I agree, so looking forward to see what the others say.

 

Gillie

[andretraut]

When last did you give the calipers a good clean? Remove the pads, and check that the pistons operate smoothly, by pushing them back. Once cleaned, the problem should be solved. Also check that the spring that holds the pads are still good, and did not suffer any damage with removing the wheel and fitting the caliper block. SLX brakes are great and are not known for giving problems. Since I changed from Hayes to XT, my braking has been sweet without any rotor/pad rub!

 

@jaco - just read the Giant's cv on the footer and you will know what breaks, or rather brakes he is using!

[david16v]

When last did you give the calipers a good clean? Remove the pads, and check that the pistons operate smoothly, by pushing them back. Once cleaned, the problem should be solved. Also check that the spring that holds the pads are still good, and did not suffer any damage with removing the wheel and fitting the caliper block. SLX brakes are great and are not known for giving problems. Since I changed from Hayes to XT, my braking has been sweet without any rotor/pad rub!

 

@jaco - just read the Giant's cv on the footer and you will know what breaks, or rather brakes he is using!

 

When I bled them I pulled the lever slightly so the pistons moved inwards, so I could lube them with some brake fluid (mineral oil). I then pushed them back and worked it backward and forwards. Felt good!

 

The problem is not that they touch after transporting because I can sort this out by re-aligning the caliper.

 

My main concern is that when I lift the front up and spin the wheel, the rotor does NOT touch the pads.

When I ride the bike with the fork `locked-out` there is no noise. When I `unlock` the fork then there is a slight scrapping sound, almost like the rotor is bent as it only touches in one place??

[Mojoman]

Prehaps some flex in the fork?

[KnobbyMech]

When replacing the wheel, always do it with the bike right side up, weight on the wheel while fastening the skewer. DO NOT pull the brake to assist with disc allignment, your wheel will not be seated properly on the shock attachment slots. Then you can re-adjust the caliper by loosening it, pulling on the brake to assist allignment and fastening it again. Hope it helps.

 

I know i'ts irritating if you hear the risc rub, but generally there is very little friction when the rotor touches and "sings" (shwing....Shwing...) This is obviously better that a rotor that rubs hard and you do not know about it.

[adogshow]

Prehaps some flex in the fork?

 

exactly. i get the same thing. no rub, take wheel off, replace it (ends up in a different postition because the fork will flex a little different). if thats the case not a lot to be done, how bad is the rub? if not too serious, why worry?

[david16v]

exactly. i get the same thing. no rub, take wheel off, replace it (ends up in a different postition because the fork will flex a little different). if thats the case not a lot to be done, how bad is the rub? if not too serious, why worry?

 

It`s never done it while riding between locked and unlocked fork modes!

Normally does it once the wheel is replaced ( I re-install the wheel the right way up) and then I normally realign the caliper and all good!

 

I have just come back from Oudtshoorn after riding 300km over 3 days. On one of the stages I noticed that my lockout had automatically `locked` out. My shock is the SID Race. Maybe it got damaged?

[Johan Bornman]

Ugrade to V-brakes. Problem gone.

[Weight Weenie]

I also get this at times and have found that the wheel was not sitting square in the drop-outs so maybe that can sort it out.

I also have a SID fork

[david16v]

Ugrade to V-brakes. Problem gone.

 

Was hoping you were going to give a technical diagnosis, not a sarcastic remark by `down-grading` to V-brakes!

 

Never heard of Burry Stander, Christoph Sauser or Kevin Evans still using V-brakes

[Johan Bornman]

Was hoping you were going to give a technical diagnosis, not a sarcastic remark by `down-grading` to V-brakes!

 

Never heard of Burry Stander, Christoph Sauser or Kevin Evans still using V-brakes

 

 

Relax China

 

You should have searched here first before asking that question. It comes up every two months.

 

Touching disk brakes is the bane of the cyclists' life judging by the number of times that old questions is posed here.

 

Who are these people you mention anyway? Your friends?

[Shebeen]

Ugrade to V-brakes. Problem gone.

following the hijack

I ride upgraded Vees.

 

I have also found on occassion that when weight is on the fork (ie. out the saddle when climbing) that the pads do rub. I assumed it is because the fork is not symmetrical (different stanchions have different insides). I didn't bother worrying because it's got to be a common issue.

 

fork is manitou skareb comp '03.

 

back off the hi-jack

 

i'm still amazed at how often i realign friends' calipers for them, using the loosen caliper, squeeze brakes, tighten caliper trick.

[david16v]

Relax China

 

You should have searched here first before asking that question. It comes up every two months.

 

Touching disk brakes is the bane of the cyclists' life judging by the number of times that old questions is posed here.

 

Who are these people you mention anyway? Your friends?

 

No, these people aint my friends!

 

As far as I know, tubeless rims only come in disc format (Centrelock, 6-bolt) so `down-grading` to V-brakes is really a no-brainer!

 

And muddy/sandy conditions chowed rims when V-brakes were used!

 

I could spend several hours searching about this on the hub, when someone might be able to give me a simple yet `higher-grade` explanation.

[Tieffels]

following the hijack

I ride upgraded Vees.

 

I have also found on occassion that when weight is on the fork (ie. out the saddle when climbing) that the pads do rub. I assumed it is because the fork is not symmetrical (different stanchions have different insides). I didn't bother worrying because it's got to be a common issue.

 

fork is manitou skareb comp '03.

 

back off the hi-jack

 

i'm still amazed at how often i realign friends' calipers for them, using the loosen caliper, squeeze brakes, tighten caliper trick.

 

What amazes me even more is that the trick ONLY work on friends' bikes..

 

Found a solution though but to lazy to type it up nicely.. basically for Avids get rid of the spherical washers on the bolt head side of the connection. I had a shop machine some stainless steel spacers. Still have to do more intense riding though, but seems much better for now.