powder coating of MTB Parts

[RudoJ]

I'm considering pimpin my MTB a bit and at one stage thouhgt I could buy all the bits & pieces (skewers, seat post clamp, front derailer clamp headset spacers etc) but wouldnt powder coating work as well? thought it might be a bit more cost effective and quicker.

[Caerus]

I'm considering pimpin my MTB a bit and at one stage thouhgt I could buy all the bits & pieces (skewers, seat post clamp, front derailer clamp headset spacers etc) but wouldnt powder coating work as well? thought it might be a bit more cost effective and quicker.

 

 

More like you want to anodise them?

[AndreZA]

I'm considering pimpin my MTB a bit and at one stage thouhgt I could buy all the bits & pieces (skewers, seat post clamp, front derailer clamp headset spacers etc) but wouldnt powder coating work as well? thought it might be a bit more cost effective and quicker.

 

Powder coating stuffs up the dimensions of parts. It might just be microns but it can still make something not fit anymore. And most pimp parts are anodized and not powder coated. And besides, what is quicker then walking into a shop and buy the pimp part and walk out.

[DMC007]

I dont think powder coating will last too long...once the paint work start chipping it wont look good. I had some spokes Ceramic coated last year and still looking like new. A bit expensive though.

[DMC007]

Powder coating stuffs up the dimensions of parts. It might just be microns but it can still make something not fit anymore. And most pimp parts are anodized and not powder coated. And besides, what is quicker then walking into a shop and buy the pimp part and walk out.

 

RudoJ...just save and buy what you need.

Edited October 13, 2010 by DMC007

[Caerus]

Also if you are gonna do it, the parts will need to be new, as any scratches will still show up through the anodising - As someone else said dont go for podwer coating - it will chip & messes with dimensions, force it and the podwer coat might crack and then the problems just gets worse

 

 

 

[Brighter-Lights]

Powder coating... and anodising changes dimentions.

 

Powdercoating adds quite a thick layer and is the more robust/durable finish. Overseas, there's amazing powder coating color's and finishes available, even pearl colors, but locally the situation kinda sucks... the typical bland colors and some vein finishes. (Silver vein is a common one used for shop shelving - I once had a frame done in Silver Vein, very very hard and tough, but changed color over a period - especially where it got perspirated on. )

 

Anodising is prettier but requires a lot more prep. than powdercoating. It's said that anodizing is the 2nd hardest substance known to man, but normal anodising is scratched very easily.

 

Proper anodising shops should have the right chemical's to strip old/existing anodising off a part without changing the tolerances, but every shop I've contacted seems to use caustic solutions which will change the dimentions of the part slightly to a lot, depending on how long it's dipped and the concentration of the solution.

 

I've done both. All critical areas should be masked.

 

Use a RTV silicone gasket maker to fill threaded area's or bearing surface area's.

[RudoJ]

Thanks Guys

I saw a few threads on this on the Hub.

Think I will end up buying what is needed. Just thought I'd check out all the options. Will go read up on powder coating and anodising anyways.

 

Later!

 

BTW DMC007: 1 week no puffs!!

[Johan Bornman]

Powder coating... and anodising changes dimentions.

 

Powdercoating adds quite a thick layer and is the more robust/durable finish.

 

It is reasonably robust compared to household paint. Hoewever, UV attacks it and it chips in big chunks. It certainly isn't more durable than a substantial anodising. Is is mega soft by comparison.

 

 

Overseas, there's amazing powder coating color's and finishes available, even pearl colors, but locally the situation kinda sucks... the typical bland colors and some vein finishes. (Silver vein is a common one used for shop shelving - I once had a frame done in Silver Vein, very very hard and tough, but changed color over a period - especially where it got perspirated on. )

 

 

Plascon is one of the large powder paint suppliers and I think you'll be amazed when you see the colour catalogue.

 

Anodising is prettier but requires a lot more prep. than powdercoating. It's said that anodizing is the 2nd hardest substance known to man, but normal anodising is scratched very easily.

 

Proper anodising shops should have the right chemical's to strip old/existing anodising off a part without changing the tolerances, but every shop I've contacted seems to use caustic solutions which will change the dimentions of the part slightly to a lot, depending on how long it's dipped and the concentration of the solution.

 

I've done both. All critical areas should be masked.

 

Use a RTV silicone gasket maker to fill threaded area's or bearing surface area's.

 

I agree that tolerances are changed by both processes, but anodising changes it so little that it is negligible in our application. Powdercoating is crude, thick, invasive and difficult to remove.

 

Anodising is ceramic (OK, ceramic-like if you want to be pedandic) and penetrates the substrate by one half its thickness. In other words, whatever thickness the layer is meant to be, one half is under the surface and one half on top. Therefore a 1 micron anodising layer ony adds 0,5micron to the overall dimension. It is not an issue at all.

 

Anodising in threads is OK, but you cant submerge a part containing steel, in an anodising vat. You first have to apply some silicone or as you say, gasket maker to the steel.

 

You have to be meticulous in isolating the steel. If you anodise a frame without removing the steel bottle cage rivnuts, you end up with a mess. Likewise Mavic hubs that look all alu but have steel pins pressed in where the freewheel pawls seat.

[Shebeen]

can you powder coat ALU?

 

my grandfather has a steelworks factory, and i think i might fool around with the fork on my singelspeed mtb.

[Peach.]

can you powder coat ALU?

 

my grandfather has a steelworks factory, and i think i might fool around with the fork on my singelspeed mtb.

 

let me rephrase that.

you can yes, but the only 1 i have seen done started coming off, it is alot cheaper than spraying thou so mb its worth a try.

Edited October 13, 2010 by peach

[Tubeless]

Most coloured alum doors are powder-coated. Including all the doors and windows in my house (black). No problem.

[Jono Waddell]

Recently pimped my fork when i built my new MTB. Was advised by the guys from the LBS and the agents they use to service the fork NOT to powdercoat the fork. The baking process could cause damage to the thin metals used.

 

It seemed logical to me, so i decided not to risk it and went for a spray paint job which came out really nice.

[Johan Bornman]

Recently pimped my fork when i built my new MTB. Was advised by the guys from the LBS and the agents they use to service the fork NOT to powdercoat the fork. The baking process could cause damage to the thin metals used.

 

It seemed logical to me, so i decided not to risk it and went for a spray paint job which came out really nice.

 

 

Hmmmm.

[dcal]

There's a place in Blackheath (cape town) that does anodizing.

and they are super cheap

[Don1]

Recently pimped my fork when i built my new MTB. Was advised by the guys from the LBS and the agents they use to service the fork NOT to powdercoat the fork. The baking process could cause damage to the thin metals used.

 

It seemed logical to me, so i decided not to risk it and went for a spray paint job which came out really nice.

 

I own a business that supplies retractable security barriers and roller shutters throughout SA, Africa and Australasia where we make use of manual and robotic powder coating plants. Powercoating , if done correctly is very durable and if the raw material is submitted to efficient pre-treatement processes can last for many, many years. The powder supplier must be reputable and the powder used must be external (uv resistant) and will withstand anything the elements can throw at it.

 

The colours available are as varied as any "plascon" type colour swatch you can find..and more with viens and hammertones for most colours. Yes the "microns" required might be a little thicker than required on some tolerances and yes the heat required (220+ deg c) to bake the parts might be too high for some sensative parts, but in general can be done and can bling your bike for relatively "cheap".