Dappere

I have heard the newer Selle Italia saddles aren’t as durable as the older ones. Might that be something to do with them becoming more “green”. Recycling more and using materials that can by naturally broken down. Read something about that a while back. Not sure if that could be a potential reason.

Flite boost, superflow. I can’t seem to find the width I need. So thinking the Ergon SM saddle might be a good alternative.

Hi, I have been looking to replace my current saddle. Previous saddle got a bit damaged in a crash and due to stock shortage, I am not able to find the exact one which was damaged in the crash, I settled for the Pro Turnix AF 142MM. The Pro Turnix AF isn't bad by any standard, it just doesn't offer the same level of comfort I had on my Selle Italia. Especially on longer rides; > 4 hours. I mate recommended I look at the Ergon SM Comp Saddle. Does anyone own one? What is your experience with the saddle?What is the saddle stack height?-- Bit about my riding. I ride mostly XC / Marathon. +- 4. Areas I mostly ride: Botties, Jonkers.

Went there when they reopened not so long ago. Bought our day passes and then we were told we have to be back by 09:30. Clay Hub could also not really give us any specific detail on the trails. Just kept pointing to a map on the table. Trails aren’t bad, there just seems to be some weird rules

I run the Maxxis ardent race upfront and ikon in the rear. In winter I change my tyres to Maxxis forekaster up front and ardent race / rekon in the rear. Enjoying this setup, for me its a good balance of grip and rolling resistance. That being said. Some of the guys in my cycling group prefer to run the ikon up front and ardent race in the rear. In my opinion. Can’t go wrong with the ardent race / ikon setup

It depends what type of riding you do? Aggressor is quite an aggressive tyre. Would give you a lot of grip upfront, but will come with some drawbacks. Tyre might feel sluggish on climbs. I can’t see that the above combo will give you any issues. From experience, most of the groups I ride with. Run the Barzo front en Mezcal rear. Given we ride mostly marathon/xc. I run the Maxxis ardent race upfront and ikon in the rear. In winter I change my tyres to Maxxis forekaster up front and ardent race / rekon in the rear.

My mtb has a matte paint job. I have used https://namgear.co.za/ bike wash on all my bikes with a lot of success. In my experience, matte paint jobs do have the tendency to get dirty much quicker than gloss paint jobs. On most days, I hose off my bike after a ride, if it was really muddy. I use a soft bristle brush to get off all the mud/dirt. When washing, I spray my bike with the Namgear bike wash, let it sit for a minute or two, and then use a soft cloth, or sponge to wash the bike. After rinse and dry, I use the muc off matt finish detailer. Works like a charm

Awesome. Point of the matter; as long as you are sufficiently covered. That is all that matters. Don’t want to get any surprises at the claims stage. Who you choose to get your cover with, and how you choose to insure your bike is completely personal and preferential.

Might be good to check your policy wording. https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/bicycle-insurance-guide/ https://insurance-uk.chainreactioncycles.com/compare/ Not RSA companies, but when it comes to insurance there is generally a lot of overlap

You can get stand alone bicycle insurance through: MiWayDiscovery (if you have a medical aid with them)CyclesureKingPrice (if you have car insurance with them)OmniSureJaSure (underwritten by Santam) - Fastest solution. Stand alone bicycle insurance, covers all the additional items where home and contents falls short. One prime example, theft away from home. Home and contents won't cover that.

From the symptoms described, sounds similar to pain I had. The most logical question would probably be - have you had a bike fit? If you had just contact the fitter. They would be able to help you, should it be fit related. This might not be the same for you, but hopefully it can give you a starting point. My pain came from the cleat being shifted a little outward (probably from walking or something). Shifting it back inwards resolved my issue - no pain since. The guy who did my fit helped with this. As other hubbers also mentioned, spending some time stretching, or on the foam roller might also be beneficial. If that is a struggle, maybe try and get a sports massage once of twice a month. If the issue doesn't get better after trying a few things. Best to go and see a professional.

I can second the Lake recommendation on the thread. Recently bought a pair, after owning a bunch of shoes from other brands as well. Lake is definitely one of the most comfortable shoes I have worn. Lake also offers insoles, which I would highly recommend to buy as an addition. Depending on the amount of arch support needed. Lake is also extremely helpful. If you aren’t sure, reach out to them. They assisted me in getting the best fit shoe in their range.

Would probably wise to get a battery extender https://buy.garmin.com/en-ZA/ZA/p/571552 Using gps drains the battery.

My suggestion; mezcal back, ardent front. Should give you the grip you need up front, while still having a fast rolling rear tyre. Where are you riding?

Completely understand. As Headshot so adequately put. "Fast rolling generally means narrower, less tread and less grip. You can't have everything in one tyre unfortunately." I do swop out my front tyre to something a little more aggressive for winter; forekaster or ardent. Find a tyre that suits the type of riding you would like to do.

Try a few rides with the new tyres. Get use to how they handle, then make a decision.

From my experience, that is normal. I get that with my Ardent race as well. Part of the compromise I guess. Faster tyre - less grip compared to that of an Ardent. You get use to it, and your riding style slightly adjusts. Why did you change your tyres?

I ride Jonkers en Botties quite a bit. My current go to tyres are; Ardent Race (front), ikon (back). Both in 2.35. They are fast rolling and in most cases gives fairly good grip. In winter I change my front tyre to a ardent 2.4 or forekaster 2.35. I run my tyre pressures; 18psi (front), 19psi (back). My weight is 76kgs. Having ridden the Ardent 2.4 up front. I can say, they have much more grip than the barzo. Maybe take a few more chilled rides, to get use to how hard you can push your new tyres.

I have had numerous pedals, and xtr pedals have lasted the longest. I have found that I have to more frequently service and replace parts on the crank brothers eggbeaters. I ride a fair bit, generally lube the pedals after every wash. I use either MO94, or WD 40. Depending on what I have. I replace my cleats on average every 10 - 12 months. Previous set of pedals I had shy of 2 year. Had a crash and buggered the one pedal. Only reason for buying new pedals.

I have been told some, let’s call ‘interesting’ things by gym staff in the past. I wouldn’t take it at face value. You mentioned you are a spinning instructor. If the movements described is detriment to you offering a class. My suggestion would; see which manufacture make the bike, and speak to one of their technical advisors. They should be able to give you all the necessary information. You could potentially educate the gym manager.

Mate of mine in our cycling group recently bought an e-bike. He was in the same boat as you, due to medical reasons, he either had to give up cycling, or get an e-bike. He went with the latter. I certainly don’t hate e-bikes, I am of the believe that it gives more people the chance to get on a bike and experience the sport. My mate still rides with us, him being the only one on the e-bike. He sits in the back of the bunch and keeps our pace, not the other way around. I believe that is the differentiator, being aware that you have this assisted power and who you are riding with. E-bikers generally get a lot of flack, and one can say for good reason. E-bike or not, respect the the group you ride with, then what you ride shouldn’t really matter. Thanks for the informative post. Been looking at e-bikes for my Mum. At 70 years old she wants to start riding mtb.

Spinning bikes generally have weight limits. Home use is generally around the 120kg - 150kg mark, and commercial use would be slightly higher. These can vary from manufacture-to-manufacture. In terms of the cranks bending, when used properly and within the weight limit of the equipment. Shouldn't bend. I have a mate that bought a cheap spinning bike from Game I believe, in order to lose weight. His starting weight was 105kgs. He has been using his spinning bike for close to a year (bought before lockdown). No issues. At 65kg, I can't imagine you would bend cranks by standing. I am curious to know, who told you that?