Skylark

Just imagine a guy googles bearing regreasing and he comes upon this thread with 2 internet nobodies called Wyatt Earp and Golefty shouting the odds, both back slapping each other claiming amazing bearing knowledge but the one doesn't even know what 2RS means or how to service his own headset and still thinks a rubber seal is made with plastic. Hahahahaha

I didn't say that I personally took it literally. But Wyatt certainly did "will be sitting back and smiling when the rope you have chokes you around the neck" Can only assume he's referring to (a) not (b) when he went into such graphic detail.

Back to the topic. Anyone not clear on how easy it is to clean and regrease a headset or BB sealed bearing at the same time that you take off the fork or crank to do some other work? There's lazy and then there's lazy, nothing worthwhile comes easy. I personally would not remove a hub bearing or any bearing that needs to be pressed in just to service it, I'd service it in place. I know that's common sense talking but considering some previous posts its worth mentioning. The key with this process is catching the contamination early, if you fall over in a river or get caught in a mud bath know that your bearings should really get some maintenance just about straightaway when you get home. Leave it for a few days or weeks and the window to prevent damage to your bearings is probably closed and new bearings will be in order. If the lbs fit the new bearings and they are branded bike bearing know it will be a hugely expensive exercise. Preventative maintenance is the key to keeping you out of the lbs and saving your hard earned bucks. Stainless steel bearings can take contamination like water better than plain steel bearings but if you leave them unserviced for too long after water ingress they to will be tickets.

I've used a small copper hammer very sucessfully, fingers also good, shifter I have also found is much force. The advice to use a marker works like a charm, I draw it all over the side that's rubbing, the high spots become clear immediately, clean properly with isopropyl alcohol afterwards.

Wyatt, you think its appropriate to be alluding to users of thehub hanging themselves with a rope. Is that thehub forum you aspire to, where other users must go hang themselves if they don't conform to your view of the world? We are discussing bicycle bearings.

Age unfortunately is not a good yardstick to use, like wine, some mature with age others just go rancid.

Diald bikes sell them online I think, try a google local search, there are a few people that sell them, not many walk in shops do though.

Probably something from fiveten or similar but they are pretty expensive, like R1500 a pair but they will probably last for a few years if you don't use them for walking around in too much. Fallen's with some viciously spiky pedals should be good enough though, just get shin guards to go with the pedals! You probably have a good few horror stories of your own from pedals imbedded in your shins, don't let those memories fade.

Looking good! Get some proper flat pedal shoes, or some pedals with death spikes.

Good question, I'd throw that question right back at you and then ask how you can own an Lbs and have 4 Chris King headsets on your personal bikes and not know that the headset bearings need to be regularly serviced and regreased. You live you learn, no doubt about that.

That's correct rubber seals, as used successfully literally in 100s of millions of bearings the world over everyday, tried and tested/industry proven for decades. At least you can say you've learnt something from this thread, so not all is lost. Keep an eye on those 4 Chris King headset bearings and don't forget to service them regularly.

Eeish sorry to see that man. I reckon you have missed a bullet though, near the top of the travel and as long as it's smoothed off and won't damage anything in the lowers, seals/bushings etc it's fine. Probably won't even lose to much oil from a mark that high up, if it was in the earlier part of the stroke it might have affected stiction negatively and allowed a fair amount of oil to weep out with each stroke.

A RS seal is rubber with a rubber lip to seal onto the inner race, most have a metal frame, no plastic anywhere, although a layman would probably call it plastic. Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to safely take a bearings rubber seal on and off no problem. RS Contact seal of acrylonitrile-butadiene rubber (NRB) with or without sheet steel reinforcement on one side of the bearing 2RS RS contact seal on both sides of the bearing

So in a nutshell you are saying you are not skilled enough to take the seals off a 2RS sealed bearing and that's why you never open them? Because the 2RS bearing manufacturers themselves specify that the seals on the 2RS bearings can safely be removed for servicing and regreasing.

You know that for a fact or you want to give them a quick call, maybe phone a friend? The biggest bearing manufacturers in the world with the biggest bearing R&D budgets and the most amount of tooling won't able to make a bearing of the same precision and quality as Chris King uses on bicycles? Just to confirm you do know now that 2RS refers to a bearing having two 2 rubber seals and has nothing at all to do with the quality of the bearing? Just so no one is under any illusions about anything bearing related on this thread.

Both respond the same to contamination and have the same requirements. Bearings with the same level of quality and precision as those made by Chris King can be ordered from FAG/SKF/BMG, they are just very expensive. By the way 2RS refers to a bearing having two 2 rubber seals and has nothing at all to do with the quality of the bearing.

Interesting points made by Chris King, Wyatt hope you get to read this, will help you with your 4 headsets and giving clients at your shop the right advice: " HEADSET SERVICE: In general, headset service should be done at least every two years. In dry climates, service intervals may be longer. In wet climates, service may be necessary as often as every 6 months. You may service your Chris King headset while in the frame using a light solvent based lubricant (e.g., Bullshot aerosol or WD-40,) to flush the bearings. If you have access to the correct tools for the proper removal and reinstallation of Chris King bearing cups, we have found it easier and more effective to remove the cups and use a solvent tank. Remove snap ring and seal: Take a pointed instrument, such as a penknife, insert it at the split in the snap ring, and lift the pointed end out. Once the pointed end is free, the remainder of the ring can be removed easily. Lift out the inner seal. At this point the bearing will be exposed. Clean and re-grease the bearings and replace the seal and snap ring: With a small brush (e.g., a tooth brush) clean the bearing while rinsing with solvent. If the bearing has been neglected and is frozen, let it soak for a few minutes. Then, rotate the inner race back and forth to work it free. Rinse in solvent and blow dry with an air hose to remove any excess solvent. Test the bearing for smoothness. If the bearing was frozen for too long it may have become damaged or may be too rough and need replacing. However, if the bearing has lost only some of its silky smoothness, it may not be evident at the handlebar once re-greased and reassembled. If bearing replacement is necessary return cup(s) to us to have a new bearing(s) installed. Re-grease the bearings using Bullshot or any other waterproof grease. Carefully wipe off the inner seal and reinstall. Finally, insert the pointed end of the snap ring into the snap ring groove, working it around the bearing until the other end seats and a small gap is noticed. Inspect the rest of the parts for any wear. At this time, you are ready to reassemble the headset and adjust."

You can buy bearings from SKF at Chris King levels of precision if not surpassing them, they cost a small fortune though. Zero engineering difference between a sealed and open cage bearing, other than the seal. Would have expected you to be fully clued up in Chris King stuff, especially seeing as you have 4 of them on various bikes and you say the headsets shouldn't be regreased: https://chrisking.com/tech/tech_headsets

Address the facts of bearing engineering and common sense preventative maintenance folks, pointless trying to base your argument on an acknowledged mistake. I said I discovered that I overfilled the grease on the rear, the key word being "overfilled". In that instance I took it to the other extreme, too much, I hope you understand that differentiation. Realized that after putting the rear hub back together, so I used a lighter hand when doing the grease on the front and it spins as expected and with the added benefit of a better protected bearing. Glad I did it and will do it again, the benefit cost me very little in time and money. Ordered some Phil Wood waterproof grease, looking forward to using it in all the sealed bearings on my bike.

Bearing manufacturers specify removing the seals and servicing bearings on their spec sheets and any industry that uses sealed bearings with removable seals will typically re grease them periodically. And in an mtb situation dirt isn't the only reason bearings get repacked, water ingress if caught soon enough and the grease replaced will keep a bearing in tip top condition. Especially if you are using expensive stainless steel bearings you'll most definitely want to open the seals and repack the bearings after water ingress, to do otherwise would be ludicrous. And flogging a dead horse but the amount and type of grease supplied with a new bearing is not optimal for low rpm wet muddy mtb conditions. For instance the average mtb wheel hub bearings is typically designed for max speeds of 12,000 - 24,000rpm, bearing manufacturers can't supply them with much grease because if used at that speed it'll all come flying out. They also don't use grease ideal for damp muddy conditions where we ride nor would they use any expensive high performance greases, something some people choose to use. If you want to use say Phil Woods over priced but good quality waterproof grease in your bearings the only way it's getting in there is by taking the seals off. Ridiculous debate, you don't smaak opening bearing seals, fine your choice but it's not wrong to do so. Logic dictates the extra effort will reward you in the long run, some don't care for the extra effort they'd rather replace, no problem suit yourself.

Nice, price is reasonable as well considering how much they are in the USA.

To get more hits maybe add the lift details to the thread title, "Lift needed Knysna to Somerset West, Sunday 21 Sept, after Karoo to Coast"

Injecting a bit of grease into a bearing and then putting the seal back on makes nothing messy or a magnet for anything. The grease is all safely behind the seal inside the bearing and I have yet to see a rubber seal become worn out unless it's donkeys years old or suffered physical damage. Servicing bearings is preventative maintenance not magic, a worn out rough bearing is toast so you bin it and put another one but if it's still good you clean it out and pack in some good grease/lube. Packing a bit extra(within reason) or just better better quality Teflon or whatever grease into new bearing helps keeps things running smoother for longer. Specifically on the headset and BB bearings I service those anytime I take the crank or fork out , they are the bearings I have found most susceptible to getting contaminated. It's not about right or wrong, choose what works for you and do that but there is no issue with opening bearings to add grease or service them. For some people incl the lbs it's less hassle just to roll with whatever grease a new bearing is supplied with and chuck bearings whenever they get contaminated.

Google it and find out or put them next to each other and see.

Also the 2 mounts you are looking for are identical, 160mm rear is the same as 180 front, for some reason they still label them as front and rear even though they are identical. So if a shop says they only have 2 180 fronts or 2 160 rears they will do the job.