Skylark

CWC has quite a few last I checked, do you need IS to post mount or IS to IS?

With the oem bike paints they probably also bake the paint on in an oven so it cures really hard and tough? I understand why the power coated oem finishes are tough but even the normal paint finishes they use are very hard and scratch resistant.

Bike on bike head on collision? How's the other guy?

Probably a centerlock rotor, if I remember correctly they use the same splined tool that you take cassettes off with, otherwise it will have 6 bolts attaching it to the hub. If it's not to badly out you can straighten the rotor.

Bearing manufacturers know exactly what they are doing when they supply new bearings with minimal grease, some end users do not understand the rationale behind that choice.

Hope hubs all the way, easy to service and new hub bearings rather cheap at your local bearing shop, very nice not needing proprietary bearings that can only be purchased at an Lbs.

Sorry to hear man, beautiful bike, hope you get it back. What was the scam? Scammers normally prey on your trust and good faith, scum of the earth.

Wurth duct tape? Wurth makes good stuff.

What function does the cardboard play in that combination? Used brasso many times with a rag, does the cardboard help to flatten the metal?

Agree Lbs can't afford to fiddle with borderline bearings but that's about it, many good reasons to service a bearing if only just to take off the seals to apply better quality grease and possibly just greater quantity thereof than factory supplied grease. If you damage a seal then bin the bearing, really not hard to remove a seal though.

I'm not following your logic, care to elaborate why you think not?

The chrome on the rims look toast, other parts may be pretty decent under the oxidisation, I'd try some heavy steel wool.

You've never serviced a sealed bearing in your life?! Hope factory specified and aftermarket(enduro, bearing man etc) bearings come with 2RS/rubber seals and are easily serviceable, pop the seals off, clean and relube.

^^ www.robertscycle.com/chrome-clean.html

Seriously? Never removed a bearing seal before? hauw

You ever looked at how much factory grease new bearings are typically packed with? Apparently can be quite an issue with pivot bearings on some brand new frames and even heard it in relation to new hope wheel hub bearings, so little factory grease in them(as in almost nothing) if something is not done to remedy that(pack them with sufficient grease) the bearing fails prematurely.

I wonder what the record is for DHL shipping from crc to in your hand in Sa? Your delivery must be pretty close! Suppose you hit a lucky break with your order being placed at the perfect time relative to the DHL collections at crc and the DHL freight flight to Sa, also helps with the Sa part of the delivery if you are in a major center.

That Gobi pricing vs the materials used is very confusing, they all look identical but the price is radically different.

Ag shame, that is one seriaasly hot bike. Hope you get it back!

Looks like I put too much grease in, like mild hydraulic locking, especially in the end caps like the non-drive side one with the seal, I rammed them full of grease, the wheels spun but not freely. Opened up as many bearing seals as I could get access too without knocking them out and cleaned out as much grease as possible and then put in some Fox float fluid equivalent(synthetic 90W gear oil, trying something a bit like the Chris King hub fluid) incl in the freehub ratchets, now its much better.

How could I have damaged the hub? I didn't use a helluva lot of force, first try I did knock it in for 5mm a bit skew though but then started again and it went in straight I think I more damaged the bearing itself(seal or race) than knocking it in skew, I probably shouldn't have used the word skew when describing it in my other reply, if I'd knocked it in properly skew the hub would have been totally butchered

Ok I've almost definitely knocked in the drive side bearing skew, will pull it out and report back on what how it goes and using a rod and washers to press a new one in.

Would using 2 thick washers and some threaded rod pull them in squarely/do the job?

Flats all the way! Where did you get those Vp pedals from?

Thanks V12, I think I may have damaged the drive side bearing knocking it in, so the rear hub should spin almost as freely as the front hub?