TheoG

I'm riding like this for months now, the flex is not much, the frame can easily take up that flex (depending on the frame). I didn't remove anything in fact I simply popped a boost wheel into a non-boost frame, and it work 100%.

I found adaptors (non boost to boost) for center-lock hubs, it does however convert to 6 bolt which is no problem for me ... . https://www.summitbikes.co.za/index.php?id_product=1406&controller=product&search_query=boost+conversion&results=23

Going from 142 to 148, no problem with a conversion kit, my one bike got this front and back, work 100%. Going from 148 to 142, not so easy. What frame do you have? If it is rather flexible like my Rapidé, you can try to fit the 148 on a 142 frame and then you don't have to worry about the rotor spacing, it will be correct.

You might be right ... will give it a shot. I did SBR on the past weekend (57km, 1200m for those of you that don't know), never felt out of my depth on a 36T, but that's tar road, climbing on the tech stuff, completely different animal 🤪. Previous time I did it with a 38T, that was not fun at all.

I'm not at all concerned about "resistance", I'm strong enough to overcome that 😋, besides its a bit more exercise gain that you get for mahala. I'm more concerned about which one will make my chain last for ever .... 🤪 And also like @BaGearA said, the one that is the least magnet for k@k .... ☺️

I like it BUT, it only add a little to your top speed with the detriment that in granny up a steep incline you keep wishing you were rather on a 36 ..... 🤪 If you are strong, light and fit though 38 might be the thing for you. When I am on goal weight about 15kg lower than now, I would seriously consider running 38 most of the time.

I have a 36 and 38 for both of my bikes. When riding flat & fast I prefer the 38 but mostly use the 36 at the moment since I'm trying to do more climbing.

Agree, that stem is horrifying

Take the plunge you will regret it ? 🤪🙈🤣

I just ordered an Orange Pi with SA. I'm not clear however on the communication with the batteries. I have a Lux-Power inverter and Mecer M3000 (Dyness B3) batteries. The inverter and batteries are connected with a LAN cable and the BMS on the master battery tell the inverter how it want to be charged/discharged. How does this work with the Pi & SA? As far as I know the current cable between the batteries and inverter is replaced with one between the PI and the batteries, is this correct? If correct, how does that work then? The BMS communicate with the PI and it then tell the inverter what to do? Sorry for all the questions, SA is very slow to respond to emails and that seems to be the ONLY means of coms with them.

The 12sp locknut is different from the rest, most noticeable its much "thicker".

I found the "center ring" of the 3x worked well for me. On a 2x, use the inner side of the big cog to mount. It will however all depend on your specific setup. Fit it these positions (probably the 104 BCD) and check the chain line. If the chain line is too far out, you might need spacers of some sort, but first check as is.

Did you ever try Shimano 12sp. On my rigid fork hardtail I have manual Shimano 12sp. No issues what so ever. Shifting is just as good as the electronic shifting on my full sus bike.

Agree, electronic shifting does make a huge difference to have nice smooth shifting on 12sp.

To be honest, I don't get the resistance towards 12sp. Been using 12sp for a while now and was on 1x11 before that. For me it work equally well with the benefit of an extra gear. If you on a budget, sure it make much more sense to go 1x11.

I had a Axpert variant before the Lux-Power, they are very different imho. Lux-Power is much much better.

I am very happy with it so far. Two of my neighbors also have and no issues for any of us so far. Support is difficult because I bought from a company in vd Bijl and I'm in Alberton, I literally have to beg them but eventually they do respond. All of these solar suppliers/installers are to busy making money at the moment to provide proper backup support. Besides that, the Lux-Power inverters is for sure excellent value for money and the quality is also excellent. The monitoring/managing software is sufficient for most people but too basic to me, that's why I'm looking at Solar-Assistant to get an upgrade on this.

Yip, that pretty much give all the info in one place .... 👍

Can even get a 12 speed cassette for Shimano HG. Only drawback is the smallest cog on the cassette can only be 11 teeth and not 10 as for Microspline or SRAM XD. Edit: SRAM NX, e-thirteen and Sunrace make 12 speed HG cassettes as far as I know, might be other also.

I noticed SolarAssistant recently added support for LuxPower inverters. Anyone on here tried and got it working yet?

Mine is also facing almost exactly north, single slanted roof to one side, so I have plenty of space for panels. Roof angle is 17.5 deg, a bit steeper would have been better but I cant complain. We are 3 units in the complex facing north and the other three are the opposite, facing south. Would be a big issue for them to go solar . Blue circled is my house, the 2 geyser panels is shown in blue also, red arrow facing north, so almost perfect for 3 of our complex units.

I would love to have enough batteries to store all the sun I can catch on a max sun day in summer. I calculated for me that would be about 24 KWh. Unfortunately that would mean spending a lot extra 🙈. imho, you can never have too much battery storage, you never know when you will be hit by more than 3 rainy days in a row and also long power outages. Normal load-shed is a non-issue for me, but our failing infrastructure in Alberton is a major issue.

Just different brands but my setup is very similar: 5kW Lux-Power 3 x 3.6 = 10.8 kWh Mecer (Dyness) batteries 8 x 455 = 3640 W PV panels 2 x 455 panels dedicated on my geyser Working like a charm .... 🤪

Awesome, enjoy ! I also don't regret it for second, despite the big bill . Edit: What's the size of those 2 batteries?

What energy meter is this? I think I need to get one of those .