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Tomik

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Everything posted by Tomik

  1. That height/inseam put you on a M for a Trek and an S for a Giant so be careful relying on a manufacturers guide. An XS sounds like it will be way too small, but an S may well fit. Don't rush it. There will always be bikes available. In that price range, bikes don't sell immediately and you shouldn't have to compromise on fit. As others have mentioned, if you have time, ask the guys at Bike Market to put it on a trainer or let you ride it for an hour at least.
  2. A cut steerer on an endurance bike isn't as much of a deal breaker as a cut steerer on a race bike because the head tube on an endurance bike is usually about 2cm taller than a race bike, so one is naturally sitting more upright. But as Ross said, make sure it fits and is comfortable as you don't want to go with an angled stem (it will look terrible on such a nice bike). Worth looking at the geometry on geometry geeks to see how different bikes will fit. Reach and Stack are probably the most important numbers to compare. Also look at a Giant Defy - very good value for money (but it won't come with as nice wheels as the Canyon).
  3. An endurance bike is definitely the way to go, coming from a commuter. Shimano Di2 is awesome and the older 2x11 is a long way from being obsolete (even though 2x12 has been around for a while). The price appears very good for those wheels and drivetrain. Shimano drivetrain components are not expensive to replace and last a long time.
  4. FWIW, I have a '21 Trek Checkpoint SL7 AXS and while it's great for bikepacking, I feel it lacks punch for racing. The frame is heavy (new ones are also quite heavy) so even with lots of carbon bits, it'll never be a light bike. It is very comfortable though with the rear flex stay (with is elastomer based as far as I know so not really a failure point). I am in the same boat as you - but going to go with 2x for a racing gravel bike as I'm very sensitive to cadence and love my DA DI2 on my road bike. The 1x AXS drivetrain (40T chainring, 10-51 Eagle cassette/derailleur) just feels like it has extra drag. It may be in my head but I can get a much smoother/easier pedal stroke on the road bike. And smooth = powerful. The Cervelo Aspero was top of my list as my LBS could do a Shimano GRX DI2 setup for about R130k. But I don't think it meets your 50mm clearance requirement. I'm sticking to 42/45 as I am light and find them perfect for WC gravel. Hope this helps - good luck with the search.
  5. If you didn't confirm via x-ray, it could be some other bio-mechanical issue. I've not had this specific problem but had constant knee/ITB issues post knee surgery (which was required due to a very bad bike fit by a reputed organisation) and eventually got to a solution through trial and error based on significant research. My solution was to use the highest commercially available arch support (G8 performance insoles), a 3mm heel wedge and 2 cleat wedges for R shoe, and slightly less support for L shoe. I would suggest googling Steve Hoggs bike fitment - he has done extensive work with Leg Length Discrepancies, whether real or imagined, and has made his findings available to the public (might require a small subscription fee but is worth every cent). Good luck.
  6. Tomik

    Inner Soles?

    I wouldn't use these. You need something firmer. I have a selection of the Spez ones in size 43 I can send you. I no longer use them as I need higher arch support. I'm in CT, you can collect or cover the shipping. DM me.
  7. One thing not mentioned, is you have to set the connection to the trainer as a "controllable", not as a power meter/power source. That is how it works on Zwift, and if only using a Garmin, it is set as an "indoor trainer" so the trainer gets the resistance signal from your computer/phone. See what similar option your trainer gives you when connecting via ant+ or BT. This is usually the first step. Apologies if you've tried this already. (Edit, I see you have). Edit 2: Try connect only via Ant+. An old trainer of mine couldn't do the resistance thing with BT.
  8. Yes, if you have the right adaptor (I assume it's a thru-axle). The trainer came with the thru-axle adaptor and a QR adaptor. I've had my Pyga Stage on an Elite trainer and it works fine. Just lock out the rear shock, and don't expect to keep up with the roadies.
  9. Had 3 Garmin straps - they don't last. My Wahoo one has lasted the longest, but occasionally doesn't connect to my phone (for Zwift). No problems with connecting to Garmin Edge. Friend bought generic strap, lasted 3 rides. I guess it's luck of the draw with those. I've moved away from straps though and use my Garmin Forerunner 45 to broadcast HR. Good enough for me and no annoying strap to deal with.
  10. You've started. Well done. I also started on a makro bike, It broke within a year, but I did get some enjoyment out of it. Was fixing things often though. Pedals, cranks, you name it. Built cheap. You're probably a heavy guy being so tall. The Makro bike won't last very long, especially the wheels. But enjoy it while it lasts and enjoy researching a new bike, which I would venture would be a hard tail 29er. Something like a Merida Big Nine would serve you well.
  11. Get an adaptor from Sportsmans Warehouse or any LBS I presume. https://www.sportsmanswarehouse.co.za/product/concept-av-fv-valve-adapter/?sku=1689883&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyL24BhCtARIsALo0fSBsaYBhkb5akSxVbr8lcHYi99zUuyq6lxeQefdRVqfrDvzj8oHV0xwaArh8EALw_wcB
  12. The long gravel route (86km) only had 766m of climbing.
  13. Route marking was excellent so there really isn't a need for a gpx file. The route was fantastic too. Funny, I was feeling it had a bit too much tar in the beginning as I run very soft tyres, but quite enjoyed the 'free' miles on the way back. Lol. The finish line could be a bit more of an event. Maybe say "finish" on it. Haha.
  14. I've got both. Sigeyi on my GG. Both work perfectly. Had the Sigeyi for about 3 years, no issues. Been underwater with it too. I like the internal battery and IMO it is nicer looking than the NGeco that is on my mtb. The sealing rubber on the NGeco doesn't seem very robust. A friend's one fell off mid ride.
  15. I rode to Doringbos from Pakhuis Pass (and back) on my gravel bike in Dec 23. From Wuppertal it will be all good gravel, very isolated, Beautiful. The road to Doringbos just keeps going. Otherwise head South over Eselbank as others mentioned and have a beer at Oasis before heading back home.
  16. I have one of these. 35mm rise, 760mm width, 31.8mm clamp. https://korecomponents.com/product/mega-handlebar-2/
  17. I have a spare Magic Shine charger, but it has a European plug so you'll need a SA adaptor. DM me if interested.
  18. @Kimikaze do they need MTB shoes with cleats, size 8/9? Or are they youngsters? I have two pairs in excellent condition that aren't selling here so can put them in the box if needed.
  19. @Zebra Friends are emigrating and gave me lots of stuff to donate, mens and ladies, and I will add some of my own. Helmets, sunglasses, gloves, road shoes (with cleats), a floor pump and of course some kit. Will throw in a lightly used MTB tyre too as that is needed. Will drop at Flying Brick tomorrow around lunch time.
  20. Yes. Just call first to let them know (I think Brandon is the guy that deals with it) then you drop at security.
  21. A normal Garmin device can also control a smart trainer for workouts or even to ride routes but a cell phone/tablet/laptop works best. The iPad was amazing but my wife didn't appreciate all the sweat on it so took it back. The only thing with using the phone is it's bluetooth based so your HR sensor needs to be BT. My Garmin watch transmits ANT+ (not sure about your Huawei watch) so I have to use my Wahoo strap with the phone. No big deal really.
  22. Replying in general here. I have an Elite Suito T. Just "broke" (loud grinding noises). Took it to Omnico in Lansdowne, dropped it at security, got it back a day later, fixed. R400. I was expecting a BIG bill and a lengthy wait. Amazing service. So quiet now. I use it with Zwift (to respond to latest post) via my Huawei cell phone (no need for anything else). I cast it using Chromecast to my big TV when I'm "racing".
  23. I've toyed around with this on a 2015 Pyga Stage Max. Started with a 50mm stem and riser bar. Front felt too light, couldn't do switchbacks properly. Went to a flat bar and a 70mm stem (same length bar, 740mm) and removed the steerer spacers and immediately the front stayed planted on steep uphills and switchbacks (down and up) were far easier. I bought a cheap alu bar to mess with bar length. A shorter stem will improve turn-in, but might make your position a bit too rear-oriented. A slightly shorter bar might be the solution, depending on your shoulder width. p.s. I ride 40cm bars on my road bike, not the usual 42.
  24. I can neither confirm nor deny the allegations. Lol.
  25. Folding a mirror is not malicious damage to property (unless you broke the mirror). Whipping is assault, period. You are in the right here, no matter that you instigated it by folding his mirror. If you had punched him, and then he whipped you, that's a different matter. But someone can't assault you for touching their car. Problem is that it would take a lot of capacity and energy to take this to court, and the satisfaction you get from it will be fleeting. Yes, I agree, Uber is really poor from a customer perspective. I also get angry when buzzed by a car as it is 30cm away from potential death if you think about it. Most drivers have poor judgement so not much room for error. My strategy for this to try memorise the number plate, if I see the car again, I let down a tyre with a valve tool. 5 seconds and done. Then I go back and leave a note if near my house.
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