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I-FELT-the-FORCE

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Everything posted by I-FELT-the-FORCE

  1. Oi Love the guys website!!! WTF!!
  2. THAT is the best tool... the saw guide.... better than using the clamps , I would think a little more pricey though REMEMBER my disclaimer in my post above !! !! !!
  3. Just from what I have read, aparently the pipe cutter compresses the carbon and can cause slightly warping or indentation. The pressreu you have to apply to the thing, stretches the threads instead of cutting it when in its natural position. I was going to use the pipe cutter, till I read this. Choice is yours though, cause the pipe cutter would work at the end of the day. DISCLAIMER!!! I am NOT a professional bike mechanic. I have however, NEVER taken my bike in for servicing, and have rebuilt a couple of frames myself. All I know I have learnt through trial and error myself. Please also note, I am pretty hands on....
  4. Hold on..... under the hoods of my STI's??? NO. around where I was putting the clamps to do the cutting? Absolutely I did. Sorry for not mentioning it. I wound some insulation tape / electical tape round the tube, where the clamps would touch the bar. Just PLEASE make sure that you have the correct measurements, otherwise you might end up doing 'throwaway" bars and that is NOT cool.... Mark your measurements in pencil. Use the clamp on the bar (lightly tightened) as a guide to making the mark around the bar. Remove the clamp and do the electrical tape wrap, right next to the pensil marking 9leaving maybe 1mm gap so you can see the pencil mark. Place the two clamps on opposite sides of the marking and start by gently cutting (gently as in pressure). Just keep turning it and you will be fine!!
  5. Just saying . Found this out by trial and error myself, after stripping the inner thread on my Ultegra FD
  6. If you dont loosen the cable at the derailer, you are putting added pressure on the thread whilst it is still under load from the cable, the more that this is done, the faster the thread on the screw (or derailer itself) is going to strip.
  7. PM me your number I will gve you a call quick
  8. Absolutely.... Loosen the cable completely from the FD. Then adjust your limit screws, BIG blade first... WITH THE CHAIN ON!! Then, manually move your chain to your small blade and adjust the bottom limit of the FD. When you re-attach the cable, make sure that your lever is in the small blade position and that the FD is also in the small blade postion. THEN attach the cable, DONT stretch it to get into on to the FD too tight. TEST then, and make adjustments to the tension as necessary, the cable might just need to re-sit itself on the FD again, so do some upwards and downwards changes with the FD. Hope that this helps
  9. Yip, looking aroudn the Nottingham area > look about as good a place as any and pretty close to other major centres for work . Just looking forward to a bit of a change in lifetyle really. How would you rate Nottingham?
  10. HA HA HA!!! All good man, we will be there !
  11. I cut my Carbon Steerer Tube just the other day... a FIRST for me.. and I have NO splintering whatsoever. My tools were pretty "average" to say the least, stuff you can buy at any hardware store.... The most important thing being the balde you using....... MUST be 32tpi blade. I bought two clamps, like the below picture and literally, used these as a guide for the blade to go between. DONT put a lot of pressrue on the blade, take your time and move the bars around. Also FINE sandpaper for smoothing the edges off at the end of the cut, concentrate on the inside of the bars... Just my 2c worth .....
  12. I am personally gonna make sure that you are there We will discuss the details on the "leg loosener" and I will pick yourself and your mate up and take you through and home
  13. Am I right? This is what you are looking for? Just the sealed bearings.
  14. I got mine from Mark at Cape Town Cycles. I am going to have a look for your specific bearings on the net and get hold of mark. If he has (which I am positive he does), I will get them and send them up to you!
  15. Markings on the Frnt Derailer should have a H and a L for obvious reasons. Shift to your highest (in you BIG ring) and slowly turn the H until there is a 1 mm between the chain and derailer. Should fix the problem.
  16. I vote for Leet22 as "The Pre Argus Man"..... AND I am gonna keep bumping this thread until some of the folk start taking notice of it!!!
  17. What??? Tilted into the back of your balls??? That must hurt like a b***tch!!
  18. Awesome. I really do try and mix up my short hours int he week. so one of the day with be intervals, the next is an easier day, following will be hill repeats and followed by a tempo ride. It just bothers me that its just an hour, not longer. Times are getting better, seeding better, but think I am seling myself short and denying myself even better times and seeding
  19. +1... It was like payback for all the time I was on the road training when she was looking after the kids.... NOT pleasant Will be doing the shaving again from now on... damn, gives me the opportunity to do a good stretch session once a week as well and come "race" day.... I will be the pretentious "roadie" with the hairless legs, sniggering at those with added leg warmers
  20. Please post some info... I was thinking about this last night and was just about to start up a thread again. Thankfully came across this one just in the nick of time. Come on Hubbers.... get your A into G and come along... especially the upcountry folk, so that we can meet who we chat to everyday
  21. Any decent LBS should have them. I bought 2 at R90 each on Tuesday.
  22. Tristan, where are you in the Northern Hemisphere?? I am immigrating to The West Midlands UK in August. Been looking around the British Cycling Website for Racing info and, man... what a confusing site
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