EddieV

Ja, I didn't think about a BMS if I get the 12V batteries, only if I bought the 8 x 3.2V cells .... I saw a nice kit here: https://lithiumbatteriessa.co.za/collections/diy-kit/products/24v-8s-daly-smart-100ah-lifepo4-lithium-iron-phosphate-diy-kit-new-a-grade-cells?variant=38166158901415 I read this blog since my last post, but I think he is using the same type of batteries here although their loads are different? https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/13366/mixing-battery-types-and-capacities-my-experiences.html But I think I'm going with your advice then ..... back at BMS on a 8 x 3.2V lithium pack if I can find something in stock?

I thought I had my battery packs sorted, wanted to buy 8 x 3.2V LifePo4 cells, and then just add as I go along, but this morning I'm wondering whether that is a good idea? It's a 24V system, but thinking, for the application, which is off-grid living, not close to any amenities or suppliers, I need to be able to source another battery if cells fail in a rural area. Thus thinking of buying 12V batteries rather, but then do I go Gel, lead-acid or Lith-iron? What risks is there if you have a mix of gel/lead-acid/Lith batteries in series / parallel to make up a 24V pack if it should come to that?

Thank you Was trying to get hold of a Victron Phoenix Inverter 24/3000-230V VE.Bus in order to be portable enough for off-grid and home back-up use. Reasoning for this inverter was installation/operation without the need for a mobile interface device for programming. Made the purchase, now just holding thumbs CO stock record is correct as Cpt stores was out of stock, if not I'll have to go with the Multiplus or Smart inverters?

Has anyone have experience from this online store: https://thepowerstore.co.za/collections/inverters/victron_phoenix Looking at buying a Victron inverter from them? Or any suggestions as to which store would be able to supply me with a Victron Phoenix inverter in Cape town?

.... another solution might be to borrow the wedge from a fellow hubber, and have it 3D printed/machined?

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge I feel much better about the project now! ????

Thank you for the advise I saw the Corrocote 1 Metal Etch Primer when I ordered these 2 etch primers: Glaker and Supreme, but at the time they only had the 5L units for the Corrocote. I do have some etch primer thinners as well. Have you any experience with these manufacturers above? I will order the Corrocote 1 in any case. It's early enough in the job to strip the frame again, the etch primer on there is pretty soft and came off easily when I tried to smooth out the flaws. I'd rather start from scratch. I aim to use this frame as my future road-bike, thus want to do it properly. And everything rusts to sh!t in Cape town if not done properly. How many layers of initial etch primer should I use, or should it be very thin - just enough to make sure I cover the steel, before applying the 2K primer filler?

I have done a few projects in 2K including some classic cars, but it's been a while - more than a decade ago. I did purchase a quality lvlp gun, and touch-up gun for this project. Had to do a bit of testing before I got the right gun setup, but my last coat seemed pretty uniform. Did the can thing on a few frames in the last couple of years but wanted a durable 2K finish and a proper setup for future projects. Happy to clean equipment, and like the idea of mixing my own colours. What is the difference in primers? I can't seem to find a 2K etch primer in SA? Will the non 2K etch primer not compromise the project by having a soft binding layer?

I've got a few components including a modified frame that I'm busy painting after stripping to bare metal. I've used Rust-oleum etch primer on the bare metal/steel, and started with a thin coat of 2K base coat just to detect the flaws in order to fill and sand. Should I have used a 2K epoxy/other primer on top of the etch primer as filler before the base coat. This frame was in good nick and luckily did not have many dents. What is the difference in 2K primers - what type do I use in whichever situation? Also, and maybe a question for my next spray attempt and other components - is there a 2K "etch" primer available in SA, or is that overkill? Current process is: 1. Rus-oleum etch primer (1.b Should I rather use a epoxy 2K epoxy primer after/instead of the etch primer here?) 2. 2K base coat (red) on specific areas - then some minor masking (light sanding) 3. 2k base coat (black) - major masking (light sanding) 4. 2k base coat (grey) - remove masking (light sanding) 5. 2k Clear coat All criticism is welcome ....

mmm …. Think the investigative journalism is a bit “off” here. The numbers don’t make sense. While I’m sure they got away with a lot, I think somewhere between the copy-paste journalism we see these days – someone made a typo or misunderstood the source article. It's sad none-the-less. It was probably a "ponzi" from the start, and had nothing to do with bitcoin or cryptocurrency.

My V800 just died completely ... over the last 6 months it started glitching ... side buttons didn't function completely anymore, and this weekend it seemed to have taken in some water. Worked really well with the Polar OH1. I see there is a V800 available in the classifieds for R1950? .... Should I negotiate ..... or do start looking at whatever's out there (new-tech) for saltwater and swim-bike-run?

(I'm using AGS now when purchasing from Bike24 and BikeComponents.de) The last time I used DHL from Germany was in 2018. And as mentioned above DHL is not DHL Express. DHL is contracted by the German Government for their local postal system. I used to try and intercept the SAPO parcels as they land in SA, and collect from the Epping Sorting Facility, taking cash to settle taxes. These are the email addresses I used: Phillipine.Ramashetsa@postoffice.co.za Ndivhuho.Sikhala@postoffice.co.za Rhulani.Mthembu@postoffice.co.za Quote your International tracking number and request an update of the parcel status, request cost, and then if you are lucky collect from the Epping Sorting Facility(next to Grand West Casino).

I love the Cederberg, ...from Algeria to the Cracks, to Biedouw Valley. Up to now I've not ventured too far away from the camping sites' with the bikes. We again spent some time there a few weeks ago, and did an unplanned reconnaissance ..... ended up doing +- 240km (in the LC) for the day .... but have now mapped out our next gravel ride.???? Looking forward to doing this route with a gravel and/or mountain bike the next time I get to the Cederberg ...... I've not seen the Doringrivier in the rainy season though, wonder if I'll be able to cross it walking through ..... (it's the crossing at "Uitspankraal") ?

I can't even imagine the head-work needed for something like that (200 miler) .... I at last qualified for the Comrades last year doing the Peninsula Marathon, but then the Comrades never happened. In December I suffered a serious stress fracture of the 4th metatarsal doing a trail run, and it's taken me a while to recover. I've been cycling the last few months to get/keep my fitness up whilst allowing the foot to just heal a bit more. Last week I did a first 5K. It's difficult not to push to hard knowing where I want to be, and what I did before.....

Looks like it's now 6 -10 March 2022 .... ????

That's always a risk for me ... luckily my work is uploaded/backed-up to the cloud daily, and I have a second laptop at home setup with all the software I need, thus I do not need to ride with my laptop. On the odd occasion when I do need my office laptop, I am also fortunate to have a colleague that stays close-by, thus I just hand it to him, and collect when I get home ???? (I haven't commuted for a while, we are encouraged to work from home still .... I now just ride the Peninsula coastal road to Simon' s Town and back in the mornings before office hours start) .... FOMO runs deep when I read posts about commuting ????...

Don't know if it is workable in your case, but consider running it as a freezer only and have a separate coolbox for the stuff that only needs to be cool, but not necessarily cold. Transfer from the freezer to the cooler to Defrost. +1 I have a 50L SnoMaster and do exactly that ... works a treat. Just spent 9 days in Cederberg & Tra-Tra Mountains no issue. Transfer ice-packs between the cooler-box and freezer as needed.

Same ... I was surprised when I got to the Arch ... I could see the remnants of a large bonfire, with the side of one of the large boulders blacked completely? You would think the memory of having the Arch closed to the public for so long would have had some influence .... eish?

Did the Wolfberg Arch this weekend again, up through the 'Narrow crack', and down via the 'Wide crack', and slept over at the Arch. Was an excellent weekend, the hike was pretty busy, not seen as many sleeping over at the Arch before. We had a moonless clear evening sky - with a breathtaking view of the Milky Way. Did the customary dip at Maalgat afterwards .... the water was little chilly though. Awesome to have the Cederberg so close to Cpt. .

We had a light blue 73' VW 411 Variant (station wagon) .... I remember the trips down to Durban, fully laden, with 5 kids and luggage ... and my mom's driving that would scare even Sarel van der Merwe .... she was a proper petrol-head. Oh … what memories

maybe not in the bottom tiers ..... but it might well be very pertinent higher up the hierarchy

I've never looked at bike finance, but have had to assist someone before who found themselves in a difficult situation after purchasing furniture on credit and being charged ludicrous amounts for credit and insurance (all types of insurance incl. life etc.) I digress, but looking at the above website, the effective rate is nearly 22% (22K interest repayment on 100K), thus maybe look at your credit card, if you already have insurance on your CC, and can add the bike onto your general insurance, .... your credit-card might too be an option? (Simpler and cheaper?). Cois's suggestion on an (Absa) personal loan seems viable too if the rates are competitive? .

saw this a while ago on Hambini - not sure whether it is applicable. He used de-scaler and left it overnight.

Stability on a descent with a narrow bar can be offset by using a longer stem maybe? Drop your frame size slightly and lengthen the stem?

As society we create/promote this ‘roof ry” culture. In a cycle race it’s just more detectable or obvious? In business it’s “big business” to find tax loopholes, yet use the same infrastructure financed by other’s tax? Whether it’s having a tax lawyer on the payroll, under-declaring, or working/banking offshore etc ....