greatwhite

My word - what a load of dribble!!!!! There are huge variances in the various greases you get - the big plus with a bike none of the bearings are ever running fast enough for the grease to be a big issue. To put things in perspective a 6000-2RS deep groove ball bearing used in some bike wheels has a limiting speed of 40000rpm - at 40km/h the wheel is doing 5rpm. Marine greases are simply waterproof i.e. they don't mix so easily with water and create an emulsion If you have a deep groove ball bearing assembly - leave the seals alone - they bearings are pregreased, so there is no need to add more. In bike applications the raceways are likely to brinnel before the grease life is exceeded anyway. You only need a small amount of grease to lubricate - adding more does little to help (in high speed applications ie not bikes, overgreasing will lead to rapid failure of the bearing) Also - when apply new grease: If you are not sure what the previous grease is i.e. not the same as you are putting in now, make sure clean out the old greases completely - NOT ALL GREASES ARE COMPATIBLE. Most grease is lithium (or lithium complex) based, so 90% of the time this is not a real issue, but if you were to mix a sodium base in you would have a balls up of note. @dirt-rider: Copperslip is not a grease, it is an antiseizing agent. While grease will work in the place of copperslip, copperslip will not work (properly)as a lubricant in the place of grease. Also, be careful what use on carbon seat posts and frames. The resins in carbon fibre are sometime affected by certain greases - eg. Scott issue a warning on their CR1 frames about it

And soon they'll leave you behind

yes if set up properly, but not ideal since mtb deraileur geometry set up for a larger ratio spread (11-32 or 11-34). What are you thinking of doing?

Also had a broken steerer on RS Duke Race, but that was from a crash

Generally CRC deliveries are quite good - they dispatch the same or next day - usually leave the UK within a day of that (track it on parcleforce.co.uk). The problems are mostly SA end - customs and theivery. I had my 1st problem with them recently, an XT crank delivered with a few pit marks on it - they cover your return postage and if it is a cosmetic issue, they offer you the option of a gift voucher as a discount for the cosmetic damage.

I can't comment on XTR hubs, but the road counter part has also done me extremely well - a set of 7700 Dura Ace hubs I got 2nd hand in 2000 have outlasted many rims and spokes - and still as strong as ever

Like, say a set of wheels I sold here 2 months ago, that I was called about 3 times in the last 2 days.....

I think they looking to 'pad' the publication. Pity they have to waste everybodies time by doing it

I've never placed an ad in the ride mag - don't even know if you can, but I have folks calling me for bike bits that I sold weeks and sometimes months ago. I believe they fill it up with ads from the junkmail where I do advertise bike bits I want to sell, but by the time Ride mag goes to press, they are way out of date. How many other people have experienced this? Especially buyers who waste phone calls only to find everything they call about is sold?

I agree, you have been screwed over. Unfortunately the banks have played all these games before and I'll say with 99% certainty there will be a clause in the loan agreement somewhere which allows them to do this when they feel the need - along with a good number of other things that are borderline unethical. My only suggestion is you speak to your bank manager and see if you might get him to be sympathic to your cause (don't waste your time with a call centre - they are not allowed to make such decisions). The attorneys should not be an issue, since all the legal docs were registered at the higher level anyway

Hmmmm - doubt it - ISO std You might have hassles with shimano C/Lock

Thanks

Can anyone confirm if the 6.8kg limit apply to track bikes. If not, what is it?

No Myth - GoLefty nailed it with a more detailed answer than JBs unusually short 'NO'

I had XTR but could not afford the wear on it' date='got XT and it is sweet.[/quote'] XTR is great just stay away from cranks and cluster - cost a fortune to run those 2 items

In an ideal world yes' date=' but we know that people don't remain seated all the time with their CoG directly in line with wheel all the time For cheaper cup and cone bearing arrangements maybe R30 - for Record or Dura Ace, I assure you it will be a whole lot more

........ Why do you say angular contact is better suited to the application than deep groove? Angular contact have better latter force handling characteristics - the net effect is like a cup and cone arrangement - also they are only generally made by the big name suppliers and of better quality because: 1. volumes are so much lower 2. they are inevitably used in more specialised equipment which is more likely to be 'under the microscope' so to speak. GW' date=' reveal your sources. Where in this town can you get a quality (Japanese, German or Swedish) cartridge bearing of wheel size for R20? Indian and Chinese ones are plentiful, but they're crap. [/quote'] Agreed, some of the indian and chinese stuff is crap. I'll see what can dig for you supplierwise - I normally buy direct from SKF OEM, but appreciate that this is not a channel open to most folks

Comments from all the usual suspects..... The advantage of throw away bearings in not lost on me and the it can be very attractive to some people. If you are paying R90 for a bearing you are getting ripped off - you can get most of the bearings for about R20 if you speak to the right people. When you look at it from that perspective it is probably cheaper than cones for Campag Record or Shimano Dura Ace. I believe the main reason so many manufacturer use deep groove balls has nothing to do with improving the product, but rather eliminating tooling cost - you don't have the cost to produce cups and cones, just buy hugely mass produced deep groove balls which are dirt cheap (as an OEM, expect to pay less than R5/bearing) In general, I prefer the cup and cone concept. It is: 1. full complement - i.e. no cage and hence nearly twice as many bearings in the same space to carry the load. This means the point load per bearing is nearly half - the result there of is a massive life improvement (not double, but in the order of 10 times) 2. Misalignment (and the premature failure that results) is a non issue with cones on a straight shaft I know I have done good miles with my D/A hubs and one guy on the forum claimed to have done nearly 100000km on his 7700 D/A hubs - show me deep groove balls that do that......

I got this post while selling a set of XT wheels (along with my reply to which In never got an answer) I am keen to here peoples perceptions with regard the the 2 bearing configurations....

bump

Hi All, As per thread title: What Tubular do you race on and why? I used to race on Corsa CX years ago, but haven't used tubbies in quite a while. Was thinking of Corsa Evo CX now, but also have seen Conti Competition and GP4000 as well as Tufo S33 are quite popular now, so ai ask again: What Tubular do you race on and why? Thanks in advance for you input