ACM

To hospital... In prep for northern night race my middle finger got caught in rotor (wheel was spinning). Rotor cut off top part from nail cross down to finger tip. Chance I might need to amputate top part Bugger!!!

Just for FYI, I use a topeak electronic gauge & have tested mine readings with another topeak electronic gauge just to make sure mine is bot 'broken' and on this i ride 0.8 & 0.6bar

Thanks for the input gents. Based on this formula I should be riding 1.5bar back and 1.3front which I (my 2 cents...) feel is way to hard :-)

I do ride my shocks very soft as well; so wasn't too worried about damaging rims But you have a point!

Can there be something as TOO flat? I weigh +-65kg and ride a dual sus bike. I've been experiencing with tyre pressures and have lowered pressure of my tubeless tyres to riding at 0.8bar back and 0.6 bar front. Racing ralph & rochet ron snakskin. Grip is great! Apart from tyre climbing off rim; any other issues with riding at such low pressure?

I did a 40km ride with Chris & team during our December 2012 camp at ATKV drakensville. What a great experience! Various routes. Chris & team also arranged a family ride which me & son did. Overall challenging, but awesome views and lots of single track! Going back December and will most definately do some riding at AOA.

Momentum duathlon at Avianto 2nd ride with new (bike) build Was a great day; not many people; no bottlenecks; weather good :-)

I've just bougth my 3rd pair of crank brothers.... Acid1, Candy3, Candy1. The only problem I had was on the very first set Acid1 I had knee pain, but adjusted the cleat position very slightly and problem solved. Kept shoes & cleat position the same and whent onto Candy3 (from Acid1) without any problems... never had a day's knee pain since adjusting cleat position. Watch your knee when you ride... if the knee moves side ways in the up and down pedalstroke movement, you probably need adjustment or inserts in your shoe to allign your foot / peddal / knee movement.

Fully agree! I also run and cycle and if I (whilst running) notice a cyclist heading in my direction I will with hand gesture indicate which side the cyclist should past me (not point fingers, just a gesture) and I found that most cyclist appreciate this as they know what is expected and what to do to avoid an unpleasant experience for both parties.

Completed my build last nigth

Completed my build last nigth...

www.buycycle.co.za but they're out of stock

Maybe the first owner will buy it on thehubsa and then put in a warrantee claim at omnico... Technically he is the first owner :-) hehehe

He got a new frame from Omnico at cost price

Right rear (brake and RD) Left front (brake and FD)

www.tri-cycles.co.za import chinese/taiwanese carbon frames

I think one needs to define 'best of both worlds'. Bigger wheels = less rolling resistance Smaller wheels/frames, etc = less weight So I'm not sure what one stand to gain by just swapping tyres and having the rest of the bike exactly the same. I cannot see that a good set of wheels (for both) will have much of a weight difference. I would just stick to the 29er :-)

Either I expressed myself incorrectly or you misread... I did not mean that motor manufacturers offer a life time warrantee; i meant years ago they didn't transfer warrantees or motorplans to 2nd owners. Then they changes this principle of warrantee sitting with the owner to the warrentee sitting with the vehicle. So, if you sell your new vehicle after 1 year the 2nd owner still get the benefit of the remaining warrantee (5years, 3 years or whatever the warrantee period)!

The manufacturers should catch a wake-up. Years ago motor vehicles also had this BS about the motorplan/warrantee is not transferable... Then they were taken to the cleaners.... Now motorplans/warranties go with the vehicle/not the owner. This no-warranty is an easy way for manufacturers to get out of claims as they know, most of us will upgrade bikes at some point and then sell our old bike. If any manufacturer ha real faith and 'proud' around durability of their frames they would offer a real life time warranty! Not a first owner life time warrantee. My 2 cents...

Are you offering to ride it and braking your colorbone in the process? hehehehe

I see you're in capetown area, there's a number of importers of Chinese carbon frames in CPT - at good prices. BOOTH - www.carbon29er.com and tri-cycles (www.tri-cycles.co.za).

I'm building a bike at the moment. It really depends on what your goal is in terms of money vs time vs new vs weight vs etc. Buying all parts new (out the box) is more expensive than buying a bike from the floor. But, building is fun. If you're prepared to wait for bargains, you'll find most of what you need on this forum's classifieds. I found a descent 18-month old fox fork for a third of the price of a new one (just as example). But you need to watch the classifieds and ack quick and know exactly what you're looking for. My advice is, read-read-read, find out what you need vs what's nice. Plan and stick to the plan; changing plans half-way through the build will result in 'school fees' :-).

Not sure what frame size you are looking for but.... I have a dual/sus Giant Antem X 29er (small - 15.5") - 2011 model. I've ordered a new carbon frame and parts which will arrive within the next 2 weeks. I will do my last race with the Giant on 21st Jul (Duathlon). After then I will strip the bike (to move my XT groupset to the new frame). Basically what I will have left after the move is the following components: Frame: Small 15.5" Blue/White ALUXX SL FluidFormed™ alloy Maestro 4.0” travel, including Shimano BB71, press fit, Plus Shock Wheelset & Tryes: Giant P-XC2 Performance 29er, eyeleted, double wall, alloy, 32H Fr: Giant Tracker 15QR | Rr: DT Swiss 350 10sp disc** DT Swiss Competition 14/15G butted stainless w/alloy nipples Fr Tyre: Continental Mountain King 29x2.4 Rr Tyre: Continental Race King 29x2.2" Breaks & Rotors: "SRAM Avid Elixir CR hydraulic w/6” breaks SRAM Avid Elixir rotors (clean sweep x) 160mm & 180mm + breakmount" Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore XT 10 sp. 34.9 Handlebar: Giant Contact oversize alloy 690mm 29’er flat bar Stem: Giant Contact oversize alloy, 4 bolt, 8 degree Seatpost: Giant Contact oversize alloy micro-adjust 30.9 Saddle: Fi’zi:k Tundra w/Manganese rail The bike has done less than 1600km (I race once a month on a weekend) - train on a spinner. The frame has a paint chip here and there - it's not new, but in very good condition. If you want to build a bike you would basically need a tapered 29er FORK, crankset, chain, RD, casette, shifters. That's what I'm moving over (the XT parts of the bike and the fork & shock). The new frame does come with a shock (X-Fusion O2 RCX); I can move this brand new shock for you onto the Giant frame. Cheers

Now I understand why there are bike shops... and bike mechanics In my profession you get programmers and VB for dummies - I guess not everyone can be everything Thanks for all the replies.

Thanks for all the info gents! So, as I understand it (for Pressfit BB30 type frame): 1. Fit the SRAM BB30 to BSA adaptor inside the frame 2. Fit a normal Shimano XT/SLX/Zee Bottom Bracket Bottom (for 68mm/73mm English thread) into this SRAM adaptor. 3. Fit Shimano XT Hollow Tech II crank into Shimano XT BB Is this it? Sounds cumbersome Question: does this SRAM BB30 to BSA adaptor work for frames that requires BB30 and Pressfit BB30 OR only for pressfit BB30 frames? From what RockyRuan explained, it sounds if it will only work for Pressfit BB30 frames. Correct? If that's the case the ROTOR BB30to24 Bottom Bracket for MTB (EVObikes) will also not fork for "non pressfit" BB30 frames. Then the only option is the BB30 to X-type converter. Where would one locally source this? More importantly, how does one know from the frame whether it takes pressift BB30 or normal BB30? Thanks again!