Yellow Zebra

What is my Specialized Tarmac Pro worth? Little ridden Specialized Tarmac Pro(I'm an MTBer), excellent condition, Richey bars and stem, Shimano Ultegra throughout, Fizik 'One' seat, Keo clipless pedals, Specialized 'wedge' tailback (mini) and Velomax 'Circuit' rims, with Conti Gatorskins. Never dropped, size 58. I'm 6 foot tall. Cheers

you should have less of a problem than if you say flew up 5 days before-hand... Tim Noakes and a good few rugby coaches all know that if flying UP from sea-level to altitude, then arriving say moning of an event is best, or say the day before. It seems like in this PARTICULAT scenario, little acclimitisation is better than rather more acclimitisation. google is your friend! Cheers

am recovering from shoulder surgery, so am now unfit AND wary of an 'off' whilst I heal. So a mate took me UP 6 different downhill routes (not the hectic downhill 'route'). What a breath of fresh air! It tought me some better lines riding the 'wrong' way, it taught me to chill going uphill, and not race everythingI see all the time, it improved my skill-set by having to negotiate rock-gardens and tree roots UPhill, I loved it. And we cleared the trail twice for downhill riders, since they have the right of way. usually I woiuld not have ridden TRAILS uphill, but absolutely loved it! my 5c.

ordered and apid for my new WildCard on the 16th january - have phoned 3 times, told to be 'patient', they are at the printers, or on the way to th eprinters, or they are planning to print them, or are THINKING of how to print them...! I left a message for Hein Grobbler, Manager in charge one week ago, no reply! His phone number: 012 426 5033 and complaints: 021 426 5017

I'm comfortable with the size of my d@ck - so don't need the latest/greatest/newest invention... Just saying, is all...! :D

They are using stock 26" frames, as MOST 26" frames front shocks will clear the slightly bigger wheel, and MANY (not most) 26" frames will accept the rear wheel, as long as you do not fit a tractor tire or ride in mega-mud... It does not affect the handling much, and nowhere near the handling change as when fitting a 29" front wheel on a 26" inch frame.

I have massive empathy for the cyclist who passed away - tragic. But with an increasing number of cyclists dying in vehicle collisions, it is good to discuss the how and why immediately - this may even prevent the next - possibly avoidable - death. I have cycled and raced all my life, and I stopped cycling with Club 100 in Cape Town due to poor discipline by some riders, over many months. I really feel that generally many cyclists do not follow the law (single file, etc), and then are furious when an accident happens. This does not necessarily relate to the tragic accident above, but to many incidents that I see. Rest in peace.

Stevief - I think you are mistaken? The new standard as I've heard it is 33ers, with a dropped saddle/top tube interface, which allows the rider to sit even more 'in' the frame, and of course the increase of 4 inches over a 'stock' 29er is close to the oiriginal jump in rolling size from 26" to 29"? Unsure if you've heard about that?

+ one for hover function. saved a click or two... But great new site, well done!

Funny, I built a house about 20 years back, and it, too, is till one hundred cement...! :lol:

roadie or mtb? The Karakoram Highway (part of the Silk Route) is a cycle-tourer's 'rite of passage', cycling from Pakistan Highlands to far western China in 3 weeks (one way), then take a jeep back. Snow-capped mountains in summer, worlds highest paved road, and swiss-style choclate box views, just remember to change from LEFT of road to RIGHT of road a the border!!!...tick! Or else cycle accross Norway, (3 weeks) up the Lafoten Islands (where it feels like time stood still), and up to Nord-Cap, to see the Midnite Sun (it does not set, just 'brushes' the horizon), remember to take your SAA 'eyepatch' with to keep out the sun at 3am!..... tick! Or around Ireland, starting in Cork, then around the bottom part, then Dingle Peninsula and around the famous Ring of Kerry, with a pub lunch and a pint of Guiness EVERY lunchtime, and great Irish hospitality....tick! Leh-Manali? Brisbane to Cairns (tick) Vietnam/Cambodia tick!

+2, 3 Epic's on Squirt, no issues.

It DOES seem like their might be a '3rd way' in the future - maybe 5 years away? 650b (27.5 inch DO have many advantages - better rolling than a 26er, not as heavy or 'unwildly' as a 29er, less weight, better strength (than a 29er). As the fathers of MTB are saying, 26" was originally chosen more-or-less by accident, and the switich to 29" is LARGELY due to the fact that there are engineering similarities/efficiencies to 700C (road) wheels. And finally, MUCH easier to fit a 27.5 into a 26" front and possibly rear, less negative effect on steeering geometry than putting a 29" front wheel in a 26" frame. ....finds, a rock, and hides away...... B-O-O-M !

anyone else notice the spelling error on the "R5.00" competition running as a banner headline on theis site - often under 'view new contents'? You can win a bike with "Ultgera" groupset! Seems strange that a professional outfit - the company sposoring th ebicycle - would not spell-check their own copy! My 5c, rant off...

recently had a Fox fork leak oil, when MTB not used for 36 months, and stored by hooking up its front wheel, so I searched (and found) this thread whilst looking for advice. I can say that it took 3 years, but the cause was - imo - definitely hanging it; no if's, and's or but's... I store my Spez road bike the same way, no problems there, obviously. no doubt many wisecracks to follow on why I should be riding it - truth is after 3 consecutive Epics, I did not want to ride for a (long) while, and am involved in 4 other sports that keep me busy. But doubters nothwithstanding, oil WOULD NOT have leaked out had I stored my MTB wheels down, and it DID leak whilst hung by front wheel. Comments? Cheers

the world and their dog all want 29"ers, or so it seems... You seem to want to buy a new 26" er.... Many people are/will be selling their 26"ers to buy 29"ers... You following my thinking...? Maybe pick up a sneaky deal on a little-used 26"er, high spec, but low price since owner is itching for a 29"er...... My 26 cents worth...!

yup, i signed up as a volunteer some years back. no, i dont report on lipstick, nor seatbelts.... but as a motorbike rider - a law abiding rider, not indicating by a car is what kills/injures some motorcyclists, etc. my understanding is that no one 'report' carries any weight, but multiple reports do build a picture..... taxi's are not only fair game, but prob. top of the list! i've filed one report; idiot tossing a burning stompie during fire season.... cheers

I've done a fair bit of cycle-touring (karakoram Highway, round Ireland, Brisbane-Cairn, and Midnight Sun trip to Nord Cap. I used a Cannondale Steel MTB, sorry that I sold it, was tough as nails. General advice: 1. back of shoe can hit front of pannier - check shoe clearance before buying panniers - a common mistake. Better touring bikes have longer chain-stays, to give better sheo/pannier clearance. 2. Carrying spare spokes: shove 6 or so into an old wine cork, then put the cork up the seat post, and tape th ebottmo end of spokes to stop them rattling - they are then secure, out of sight ofr the unlikely event when you need them! 3. In africa; every village can weld/mend a steel bike, few can weld Alu, and fewer still can welc carbon fibre. Go Steel! 4. Carry a spare derailleur HANGER with you at all times - it's a tiny part, but VERY bike specific! 5. some cycle tourist like double sided pedals; one side cleat attachment, one side 'regular' old fashioned pedal type - gives you serious flexibility to use flip-flops in hot climes IF you want to, and to use any shoes if you break a cleat or the cycling shoe itself. Good luck!

I understand your needs a little better, thanks. So my advice would be: 1) first choice a new/2nd hand lighter bike, or 2) upgrade your rotational parts first then 3) upgrade your parts, seat, bars, etc. Since you might save only 200g on a seat, but could save say 400grams+ on very good tires, maybe consider your tire options very carefully - mtb's carry a lot of ruibber compared to say a road bike, and there is a fair bit of weight that can be saved, of course dep[ending on your riding needs. pedals can also be4 a weighty item, when weighed together as a opair, so IF you want to research new pedals, then you could save weight here, and you might improve on pedal FUNCTIONALITY compared to what you cot, AND it's rotational weight! Good luck

Upgrading your bike TO SAVE WEIGHT is one of the most expensive things you can do to a bike; if, for example, you buy parts and a frame individually, it could cost you more than the cost of a complete bike (lots of examples of this in the motor-industry - try and build a car from parts, and you'll see what I mean!) So there is a 'saving' if you like, in buying a complete up-specced bike rather than trying to up-spec an original bike. Then there are two 'types of weight on a bike - ROTATIONAL weight (pedals, rims, chain, tires, cranks, etc) and STATIC weight (things that don't go round!). Rotational weight is the FIRST place to save weight - within reason - because it carries a heavier 'weight penalty' than static weight, so handlebars and seat etc should be LAST on your list, imho. I have gone this route before, and the BEST course of action - honestly - is to upgrade to a lighter bike after many months of hard saving - called delayed gratification - put up a poster of your intended future purchase in your garage or wherever, and then save/save/save. Because chances are if your existing bike is specd with 'heavier' parts, then the frame, etc will also be heavier. Keen to hear your thoughts...

Recently bought Blackburn X6 from a fellow Hubber, for night riding. Used it once (so far!); here are my thoughts: I got the light for a very good price (Less than R800), the lights are great quality, the battery is a (relatively) weak point. Used it on a 1h30 min night ride, went up the mountain with just one beam on (flood) and then came back down the mountain with both flood AND spot on - battery lasted no problem, (as it should have) and I was very comfortable on my first ride keeping us with some fastish riders using these lights. I guess what I'm alluding to is it IS possible to get started with nite-rides with 2cnd hand/budget lights, while assesing what lights I will get around to buying once I know my Lumen from my Lux! There are plenty of negative reports on this Systems battery (NiMh - later upgrades were Li-ion), yet it 'did th ejob', at a great price! After just one ride, I returned the battery charger to the importers/agents, since while it was properly charging the battery but making a 'clicking' noise that concerned me. Having no lights to ride with after just one ride, I purchased the new LEd-Lenser hand held torch, from Cape Union Mart (plenty of 'buzz' around these torches on the Web). Cost was R499, it uses 4x AAA batteries, and it gives 230m 'reach', 2 hours on high beam, and 200 Lumens (stated, not measured). I clipped it on to my handlebars, since the B7 comes ready with a cheapish (but effective, but ugly!) handlebar mount. What I DID like versus the Blackburn was the lack of sepeprate battery pack and wiring, just slip the torch into the holder and ride! Another very nice feature was focussing the beam from wide-angle, to spot, and back to wide-angle; simply slide the 'collar' at the front in or out, to change the beam pattern - super easy. I rode up and down the mountain with it no problem, loved the beam adjustment, found there was enough light, and the torch was SOLID in it's mount. I could take the torch out of it's mount to help a fellow rider untangle a branch from his rear mech. I really did enjoy the lack of wires, and the torch could be dimmed back to 70% with a click of the on/off button. It does not come with a helmet mount, but I have an idea how to fabricate it... Conclusion: I do like the all-in-one solution that a h/bar mounted torch offers, and the fact that the torch can be used off the bike/around the bike far easier than the Blackburns could. It might make a great helmet-light, to back-up the Blackburns, and I love the fact that no battery pack and wiring needs to be messed with. It uses a Cree LED (don't know which one), all-in-all, a super little torch!

did he use that new-fangled 'invisible paint' , becuse I cannot see anything....?! Seriously, where i she based/what doe he charge? Cheers

Francois Du Toit, in Bellville, Cape Town.

bar-ends unfashionable?! bl@@dy fashion victim!!! I use Cane Creek bar ends, brilliant, since they extend a little way back from the h/bar as well as forward. Ergonomic. To the poster who said he's never had a problem without them... Try a few Epics back-to-back, and I think you will find that the additional hand placement option is a really relaxing option, gives great control when out of the seat on a tough climb, and yes, the Pro's use them too! Cheers Chris

I'll be up Suikerbossie, supporting Hubbers in a pint-T (breast cancer awareness) with tongs and bacon in one hand, and a beer in the other hand, trying to persuade my mates that tehy CAN stop for a bite/chat, and it's NOT ALL ABOUT THE CLOCK...! But I have a few sub-3's 'banked' (new route), so I can afford to mess with their brains...! Seriously, good luck to all, Suikerbossie will be PINK!