Kuys

Does anyone have information about Roodeplaat MTB Trails? Apparently is the old Buffelsdrift According to Gauteng cycling the 4th enduro provincial will be held there

Ive got an Orbea Rise. Have had to deal with their customer service on 2 occasions. Getting spare derailleur hanger and warranty claim on chainstay. Once you know who to talk to it gets sorted quite quickly. If you DM me I'll share contact details. I would definitely recommend the brand. Their website is now also updated with local pricing. And they are willing to special order options thats not locally available.

Hi I have the same issue with my Prado, and Amarok. Im busy designing my own one. If you interested I can keep you posted. Regards Christie

I had something like this on a Bantam bakkie years ago. The Bantam had a "cab protector" fram e behind the cab rear window. I mounted a fork mount bracket to that and bolted the fork in place on that. Rear wheel rested on the loadbed cover. I made a bracket bolted to the cover to keep it in place with bunji cords. The gas struts was strong enough to open the lid with the bike (x2) on it. Since the fork was attached to the bakkie frame, the lid only had to lift half the bike mass and it pivoted around the fork bracket. Put the front wheel inside the load bin. Worked really nice. I may have a photo somewhere but will have to do some digging to find it

you can also look at Grootfontein and Wolwespruit in Pretoria

There's a couple of Facebook groups for the EX-E. Consider joining one of those, You will get a lot of info there.

Thats a fair point, Ive also had to load a bike onto a Thule with a flat tire, no issue. But could be problematic on something like the 1 Up

Yes for some reason we dont have any racks in SA except the Thule mentioned. (which is roof mounted) Im currently working on my own design that will be similar to the 1 Up USA. If you interested, message me and I'll keep you posted.

I rode mine in mullet mode for one ride (with standard rear shock) and it was fine. But I prefer it in 29er mode.

Fixed, thanks!

Just an update on the derailleur hanger: Cycle Lab has stock! Description: Nº50 X12 MTB STD

Ok back to the Rise: Will post a picture later but here are some thoughts: I have a Rise H15, in blue & grey. Only frame and shock is still stock, the rest all came from my previous bike. Lyrik 160mm fork DT Swiss XM418 rims on 350 hubs (will show speed sensor hack later on) Currently putting Code brakes on Recently changed to Shimano 10spd with 11-36 casette. Still has stock dropper post (it works, so no reason to change) Using the bike for both commuting and trail riding. Battery life seems really good! The max torque of 60N.m is sufficient for me. I rarely ride it in boost, mostly in trail that set at aroun d52N.m My only gripes currently are non-availability of spare derailleur hanger, and that no volume spacers was supplied with the bike for the rear shock (which should have been supplied as per owners manual) Im considering back engineering the hanger and get one machined. To change cables you need to remove motor and battery (and to do that you need a very rare tool to remove the chainring)

This thread is dedicated to all South Africa Orbea Rise owners. Feel free to share your build, experience etc.

Ive been on SRAM for 10 years now, 10spd, 11 and 12. 11 spd was the sweet spot for me. ja the 50t is nice bail out but the shifting quality took a dip in my opinion. In process of converting my scooter now to 10 spd Shimano Deore. 11-36 casette with the new Deore derailleur and 2nd hand SLX shifters. All in costs way less than a new GX casette alone. As you say Chad, that lock out button on the SRAM is a really nice feature that I'll miss. But Im keen to see how the Shimano 10spd holds out.

Id probably go for the Titan as it its R4k cheaper, and rather spend the extra money on a better fork. Ive bought old 26" Fox forks for both my daughters and reduced travel to 60-80 ish. And it works great for them. You can typically get one for around R2500-R3000. Up to 20" I would stay rigid, but from 24" they start riding more obstacles and drops and the forks really make a difference for them.

Boost refers to the front fork axle. Until around 2016/2017 fork thru axles were 100 mm long x 15 mm diameter. Since then it became 110 mm long x 15mm diam (called boost). Rear similarly went from 142 to 148. Some hubs can be adapated from 100 to 110mm with adaptors. Most rims these days are 30mm inner width, it suites 2.4-2.6 wide tyres better, allowing you to run lowing pressure without tyre folding in under you in hard cornering. If you keep to the existing spoke count, you should be able to replace rims only and keep hubs. But you will need new spokes and dont forget labour for wheel build is a few bucks.

get a Pike and 30mm wide rims and go ride it till it dies! You should be able to get a 27.5" Pike for around R7k in good nick. You will need to sped upwards of R70k to get a new alloy frame bike with good suspension.

Ive ridden the following bikes since 2006/7 2006 Stumpjumper FSR (26") 2008 Stumpjumper FSR (26" with brain rear shock) 2010 Pivot Mach 5 (looking back, one of the best bikes Ive owned) 2011 Trek Fuel EX (over forked it to 150mm fork, which in hindsight wasnt the best idea) 2012 SC Tallboy LTc (large with 70mm stem), my first 29er, had Enve wheels etc so was a major jump from the Trek 2014 SC Tallboy LTc (Xlarge with 50mm stem) the longer top tube made it more comfortable, but I wasnt any faster on it 2016 Stumpjumper S-works (XL with 45mm stem). Was really good bike in 140 fr/ 135 rr mode. I changed the fork later to 160 which in hindsight probably took some character away from the bike. demo: 2017 SC Nomad (XL, with 29er front with EXT rear shock) damn this was an amazing bike. 2018 Pyga Slakline, L. Main reason was the Stumpy felt a bit out of depth at Hakahana, and then when I bought the Slakline it closed down, so never really got the opportunity to ride it there. I rode the Slakline with both 140 and 160 rear, but it always felt like it couldnt really stretch its legs at a place like Wolwe. But anyway: Geometry (slacker head angles and steeper seat tube angles really makes a positive difference. Suspension made leaps and bounds until about 2019/2020 then tapered off a bit. My 2019 Lyrik still feels amazing. Frames are also noticeable stiffer/stronger these days. The one thing that is a thing for me is that we are riding much heavier wheels and tyre combo's these days than 7yrs ago. The bikes go so much faster, that you need strong tyres and wheels, and that makes the bikes feel slower on flats and climbs. 12 speed? Dont disgard Shimano Deore 10 spd (with 11-46 casette, you really dont loose out much to 12 spd, for a fraction of the cost. Im stringly considering dishing my 12spd for the 10 spd Deore. If you want to upgrade? get a 2nd hand Pike and switch to 10 spd Deore. Otherwise sell it and get something newer. Thats my 2 cents.

Take a serious look at the Orbea Rise H15. Going for a round R115k. Im super happy with mine.

Check with Mankele before you go there. The new owners doesnt appear to be that much into MTB. I was there about a year ago and only some of the lower trails were open, none of the old cool stuff was open. Maybe it changed since then, but I doubt.

Use the trailforks app and you'll be sorted. There are lots a " separate" sections that are marked, but not really full "courses" . Using Trailforks you can link up the various sections as you wish. The " sections" are well marked, so that helps to confirm what you see on Trailforks.

Thanks Marc! Ive decided to stick to my SRAM set-up, but its good to know for future, much appreciated. Regards, Christie

Hi Marc. I have a set of Rovale Traverse Carbon wheels from 2016, 12 x 142 (but currently converted to 12 x 148). Do you know if its possible to fit a Microspline free body to this hub? Regards Christie

I have 2 issues with all these bikes. High BB (more important than stand over as this drives saddle height from the ground, and thus whether their feet can reach the ground or not getting on/off). My daughters Mercer is 40mm lower than the Titan, thats a lot for them. With the short cranks they should be running ground clearance is not an issue. I dont see crank length specified? Steep head angle. I cannot fathom why they cant slacken out to around 67deg on all sizes?

I just recently got a 2019 Trek Super Commuter 2nd hand for R35k. I commute 21 km one way , so 42km total per day. It is standard limited to 45km/h (its a special category, thats not very common). It has a lot of resistance once you hit that limit and it was a bit infuriating. Certain sections it helps a lot if you can keep up with traffic at around 50km/h or you want to chase for the green light .... So I got a Speed Box delimiter locally and it works. If its really 25km/h, thats very low. With 32km/h one can still work, depending on how much resistance there is once motor cuts out. I suppose the newer models are much better in that regard. But if its a model that can be derestricted, its definitely something to consider. So far I really enjoy the commute on the ebike, but you need to be wide awake with traffic and pedestrians especially when you go way faster than they expect.