Paul Ruinaard

Good question and its a bit of an approximation and not an accurate science. I got a digital gauge and compared the readings on the pump vs the gauge assuming it was more accurate and since then have compensated. So for example my floor pump at 2 bars on the dial is at 1,9 on the digital gauge so i assume its at 1,9 and top it up a bit if i want 2 bars. I am not that fast nor is it that important but it can be material. My one pump was very out - like 25%.

WRT Tire pressure and punctures and the like something to think about - my 2 cents worth - use it or lose it. I found this app BTW: https://silca.cc/en-in/pages/pro-tire-pressure-calculator?srsltid=AfmBOop3BURojAdUumlLtjsRq0_94rSY3ipbUpY6CDQy3bagSwgep-Tj TBH most people over pressure their tires - always an extra stroke or so of the pump for good luck. I was always over pressuring but its a mixed bag with pressure in tires, and if you get it right you should also avoid punctures : 1.) Is your pump guage accurate - most arent and once they have been knocked about a bit with age and the like and they definitely arent. You need to know how much it under or over reads. But its likely its wrong. .2 bar on a 1,8 bar inflation is over 10%. 2.) Do you pump your tires just prior to the ride - most people do their tire pressures the night before and in the morning the tire has deflated a bit especially tubeless. Do it before you ride. 3.) How old are your tires - if you are getting repeated punctures then maybe you are in need of new tires. Normally one plug is okay but multples indicate the tire is toast. Tires also age and crack and certain products make them less pliable. they are expensive but they need to be replaced. If you are racing rather than riding a puncture screws up your race. 4.) As per the other thread what sealant are you using. Stans race is brilliant but double the price. Finally I will say a set of gravel 42 mm tires runnnig tubeless and properly inflated are much plusher and softer on my body as they add a level of deflection which cushions the ride and also allows them to deform around sharp edges. Its crazy good when you get it right but a bit too much turns the ride in to bone jarring and rough. I have broken hubs from very high pressure when the shock just gets transmitted in to the wheel. Use it or don't. Punctures are part of riding. Tubeless solved the smaller puncture dilemna very well but it has its own set of issues. Finally as an old dog you must know how many rides I changed two tubes or more on in the past when you were unlucky. PLugs are so much easier and simpler to do.

me as well

Having used most of them Stans Dart seems to be to me the best ever. Swear by them. But the real thing i found is ensure your tyres have fresh sealant in them - i have only found myslef plugging when i have neglected this.

I would debate your assertions also having done many years as well on many formats and also seen the stats on the road about the majority is the guy who did not see you from behind something like a Garmin Varia makes a hell of a difference. Because it changes pattern and intensiies. Same with Garmin headlights. Clearly you cant avoid a distracted driver or a person who conciously decides to ignore you - lights arent going to help much. BUT my experience has shown lights during the day makea difference - especialy strobing lights. Just this last weekend I had a car pull out to overtake in to the group of oncoming cyclists I was in which then aborted and i can only assume it was because of a strobing headlights. Decided against it. Without the headlights the chances are he would have gone ahead as maybe he had not seen us. Its like the guy says - you can't stop and ask him whether he would have done something that would have hurt or killed you but you also may have saved that from happening and for me that is enough. However having spent lots of time on motorbikes you learn front lights make a difference. Hi Viz vests etc all add to it. As do different coloured lights outside of what you normally expect oncoming or receding. Defensive rdiing also teaches you that people pay attention to strobing lights or lights that move side to side - which is why advanced motorcycling tells you to waggle the steering slightly and move your lights when approaching an intersection if there is a car crosisng from a T junction as this will get the atention of someone who may be tired or distracted or not paying attention. If I flash a light at you or move it side to side you will likely pay it attention and notice there is a bike behind it or a group of cyclists and that may make you think twice about running the light, stopping or overtaking. And that may be all it takes to avoid the next possible outcome of an accident. TBH I dont know how many times my little front strobing light has saved me - maybe none - maybe many times. Thats okay. One is all I need. Given that in the eternal war between cars and bikes - cars will always win in an accident, you need to do whatever you can to improve the odds in your favour. Ride with headlights and tail lights. I can assure you that the one time the strobing head light gets notice may be the one time that its needed and it saves your life as there is never a scorecard where you know about the times it saved you and the near misses your precautionary actions averted. Thats why 19 year olds go to war - its because they believe its the other guy who gets killed. Rather than rely on opinions or pop culture which are really not backed by fact, why not stack the odds in your favour just a ittle bit and add a bike headlight that strobes and also has a changing pattern. As I said one save from a life altering or fatal accident is all I need to justify my use.

Pity there is no slow mo video of that as the view of how the suit came off would be great to see.. I do recall a mate who fell at high speed on water skis having lefty the size of a purple tennis ball and bruises from under his thighs to up his back that were a lurid purple. Nothing broken but the pain was in a whole new league. Water is very hard at high speed.

I havent got the MRI and CT Scan of my head any more but if i had i am told it showed bleeding on the brain after an OTB crash at about 45kmh some days before. Long story but ended up on a ventilator in ICU for 4 days, I had to cancel a wedding and wasnt allowed to drink for 6 months whilst also having a very funky EEG. Learnings were to always get xrayed if you are feeling vague after a big crash and a broken helmet and secondly that you can drink virgin mary's on honeymoon whilst your new wife parties. Oh and the Doc also suggesting to would be a bit of a bad idea and maybe "dont get too excited" and try to consumate my marriage as he wasnt sure what else may go pop if the blood pressure went too high....

I have a lot of cycling kit lying around i dont use - happy to contribute it to a cause like this - DM your details and I will put. abox together and send to you - handlebars, saddles, pedals, etc. all sitting around just in case i need them.

MIPS is a good idea so thats a starting point - but like the 70's very famous bell helmet ad - if you have a 10 buck head then wear a 10 buck helmet. Specialized is reputable and widely distributed and a crash replacement policy is cool as well.

My Specialized Range Extender battery has become faulty - unequal discharge. I know there was someone who once posted about a shop in Tyger Valley/Belleville area thta was able to rebuild batteries - I dont have the expereices but its apretty easy to do as far as i know. Otherwise i have just got myslef an R 11k doorstop. Anyon know of a shop that can repair ebike batteries in CTN area.

I was involved in a simmilar string about 3 years ago - its a long story but basically i was of the same opinion - i can fit myself and with age and growing degeneration you must just suck up some of the pain. Anyway after much back pain and back and forth with some of the guys on the hub that are in the trade i was convinced to go to Richard Baxter for a fit. He did pressure on the saddle and also fitted for a person my size i.e. a prop forward rather than Pantani. I ended up with Pedal extensions for Q factor of 20mm as well as looking at saddle pressure and bringing me more upright as, lets say, i have spread out a little. First ride out the Garmin indicated an increase in VO2 max and FTP. Both went up about 10%. That was week to week on a route in the cradle. This was all from a bike fit - i changed nothing else and it was over a weeks period. As they say the data doesn't lie. I would say i got a bike fitter that understood what i wanted and wasn't using a series of formulas from a manual but focused on me. Do some research and get a good fitter. Its worthwhile.

I tried but its very complex and costly. Rather hire local bikes. Airlines will not let you fly with ebikes with batteries attached and to ship them separately is very expensive. You have to get them on a fright only flight and then they need to be specially packed and handled. I was trying to get an extender alos during COVID times. Good luck but its a mission.

arent there roadworks on the R 301 past Boschenmeer on your route ? Too many amateur rally drivers with potentially alcohol enhanced abilities over the weekend IMO so would it not be better to choose a weeknight...

always look forward to your photo posts of your weeknd on a Monday morning. Seems like you just always riding in a picture skew part of the world or you are a damned good photographer