The_Break

Often these kits end up sitting around for the most part. Here is what I would buy if I wanted to service and build my own bike (Shimano version): Good quality 1-6mm allen key set. Spare 8 or 10mm allen key for my pedals or a BBB pedal spanner (pedal dependent) 1x 1-5Nm good quality torque wrench (dial type is best) 1x 5-30Nm good quality torque wrench 1x 20-120Nm good quality torque wrench (For the cassette lock ring) Allen key socket with adapters to match torque wrenches Chain wip Shimano chain breaker Shimano cassette lock ring tool Shimano BB tool (torque wrench compatible version if possible) Crank/blade nut tool (for the big and small blade nuts) Spoke spanner (any good quality precision one) Multitool for riding and when needing 2 allen keys of same size A good quality thread grease. A good quality bearing grease. Hub and free body bearings. Long nose pliers for pulling and holding cables Side cutter or best a proper cable cutter for cutting cables and sheathes Hach saw with the finest tooth count you can find (for fork cutting) If you can afford it a nice bike repair stand. Rest of tools you rarely need and then it is worth paying the small fee at the shop. E.g. drop out alignment, etc. Besides the torque wrenches (about R1500-3000) such a tool set will not set you back too much more than what it would cost for a year or two of services. The learning investment is the real winner and the rest of your life you will save and be sure your baby is properly cared for if you learn properly and have a good maintenance plan.

That where you got it all wrong. Fuel cells simply shift the emissions to another place on our planet.

Lactate threshold ±4W/kg and if you have a good start group with a similar time. A group start group and you could also easily do it with ±3.5W/kg.

You never took my comment seriously did you. I meant it light heartedly about the experience. I.e. all runners need to degas man.

I went to worlds for both so used to suffer all year round. Tri season was the rest season and the prep for getting fit enough for du. That initial run pounds your legs, the bike your legs and lungs and then when you come off the bike your heart rate elevates about 10BPM. Problem is if you already at lactate you go BYE BYE.

You are obviously not an experienced runner. Farts must come out whenever they are in the chamber. Even a certain former Olympian lady I used to train with used to let them out. The etiquette is to move out of the line to prevent runners behind you getting a lung full.

3-4 days into any tour and all you can think of is getting any kind of food in as large amount as possible into your body. Typically very few of us would be chowing this food in build up to tours like these. It is all about leaning up and getting the energy in when you need it for the harder sets and pre-races. But yeah, Giro last year and I was eating anything I could put in. Mostly fatty and sugary junk. What for breakfast?

3 idiots started a similar conversation a few decades ago in a pun in Hawai. Next thing the Ironman was born. I think this topic has been exhausted over the years. If it was me, do dualthlon. You will not find a more punishing sport. Not even triathlon is harder.

Hi Seebee Not your stem. Length is fine. I do however feel that it is your fork. My feeling is they have fitted a fork that has incorrect rake thereby reducing your effective wheelbase, i.e. the distance between the centres of your wheels. Reason I asked if it happened on the flats is to give me an indication of how much weight is on the front wheel when it happens. As it happens on the flats it indicates that it is fork related due to speed and not due to speed and a poor forward weight distribution. So my advice is to check which fork should have been fitted to the bike according to the Cannondale USA specs. Contact there technical team and ask them. Also, if the forks differ you will probably find that the rake your current fork has causes a shorter wheelbase. Email the US guys found in the doc below. http://www.cannondale.com/zaf/eng/CannondaleFiles/Manuals/2005_synapse_six13_geometry_comparision_technote_en.pdf Actually I am almost willing to bet money on this one.

Seabee A lot of front end problems have 2 main reasons if headset is correctly tightened: Incorrect fork fitted to frame Too short a stem So my questions: Does your bike still have the original fork? What size is your frame and what length stem do you have? What wheels are you riding when this happens? Is it only on downhills or on flats too?

Here is my thought on my bikes: I have let doctors check out prostrate and my nuts. But touch my bike and you will need a doctor. Worst thing I ever saw. Bunch ride and we stop at the local Spar. Half guys go inside to buy snacks. One dude checks out a nice 50k Trek parking against the wall. Climbs on and starts riding it around the parking lot. Owner comes back, where the f... is my bike. Was the last time we saw the guy who was riding around the parking lot.

Real men ride road bikes!

So if real men ride metal mountain bike then I suppose most rich guys are not real men?

Reminds me of a friend of mine who was thinking of getting some deep section wheels. So he says to me, "Can I pop around some time to pick up your Boras this weekend to take for a test ride?" I think I recall asking him to leave his hot girlfriend as a deposit that I could try out whilst he was away.

Unfortunately there arepleny of these idiots on our roads. Hope he kills himself before he kills someone else. We don't want him on our roads.

Poor bike. My bikes sleep in my room with me.

It is an issue. I pay or get sponsored a 90k bike and some plonker comes and puts a scratch on it or messes with the gears or bumps a brake caliper then he is gonna have problems. First I expect him to buy me a new one so it is in the original conditions he touched it in and then I also want to be sure that when I am hitting 90+km/h down a pass I know exactly what has happened to it and that it is gonna keep going 90+km/h until I decide otherwise. Point being, don't touch what you can't afford and if yo do and you can afford it be prepared to pay for a new one if you even just scratch it.

No not stretch as in stretch, but some cables become "tighter" in the twist of the cable at it is pulled and tends to want to unwravel. It is very theoretical so that is why I said unlikely, but rather settlingin of casing to plastic end bits, etc.

Whenever you replace a cable, derailler, shifters, casing. there is always a settling in period where the casing settle into the components and there is also a slight possibility that the cable itself will stretch a tiny bit (although more likely just the casing settling in). So if your gears keep going over time it is because of this settling in. If you then take it back and the LBS replaces now another part, then it will have to settle in again as it was disassembled. If it were a bent hanger or derailler or failty shifters the problem would most likely be there all the time. My suggestion now that you have replaced the parts is to keep riding it and set the gears yourself by using the little finger adjustment srcew on the derailler. Really easy to do yourself. Keep doing this and it should settle after 3-5 rides. If not then check the derailler is not bent using a drop out alignment tool. If after all this it continues I would suggest a full recable and casing rebuild. But remember, it will still have to settle in after this. Good luck man!

I did, unless you mean L L.

And make sure his hotel room has a good TV.

Sorry, misunderstood you posting. This design does provide side wall support. My mindset was still on the comment of cable ties. So this design should be good from that perspective. I am still wanting to see how the freehub (especially alu ones) gets damaged, especially on powetap hubs. I believe there will be some damage if tightened too much and also front a single cog which now has all the force acting on it as compared to a whole cluster.

This company did not have international riders, but sold thousands of bikes in the contry they where located in. I knew the guy personally who did the job and this is how I knew all of this. There is some scary stuff out there going on. I think people who think there is a intelligent mind behind the design of all the bikes out there (especially those chinese makes who have no apparent R&D department) are the gullible ones. I am not saynng that any one country is impervious to corruption. I am just saying that $14000 is not the kind of way to get rich by testing maybe 50 bike brands and then trying to steal it. I think they would do better to ask an extra $5 from every cyclist with a license on earth. I think it is about time our industry is regulated as is the motor industry. We want safe bikes on the roads, not rubbish that will hurt more people than just the guy who bought it. I think this is a good step in the right direction. Besides, if it add maybe $5 to the retail price of the bike I would be very surprized, but hey, look what you get. Proof of a proper design and testing.

Um, no! Not that easyily said. I am not even going to try explain this one unless youu know your emperical equations.

FWEF. Big sigh!!! Didn't hear that sarcastiv twang in your voice there. I also think there is going to be some free body damage from these guys if the clamping is too high. Will be interesting to see what torque spec they cme out with.