The_Break

Some points: Roadies generally ride in groups so won't great you cause they are normally talking and not taking notice of other road users. MTB riders generally ride alone so will naturally great more easily as they are not in conversation. Roadies generally travel at a higher speed and as you normally have a lot more wind noise in your ears your greeting gestures tend more toward either hand signals or nods. I know nods are generally not seen. I know I nod a lot. MTB guys genenrally travel a lot slower and away from all the nose of the road so are probably a lot more verbal in their greeting. Roadies generally train harder on the road than a MTB would train on the road as I seldom see a MTB hitting it till he hits his turf. Roadies nailing it are not going to greet during hard efforts. Off the bike, roadies are a bit more windgat in perception I would agree. But this often comes from the dynamic of road riding where attitude is often a bigger role than it would be in a MTB race where the group splits up. So roadies will naturally have more attitude as their is a much more competitive attitude in road racing because of this dynamics. One last thing which may be the main reason for any windgatness of roadies. On an MTB, you more often than not get put in your place in a race and are duly humbled. On the road, there are plenty of wheel sitters who are able to finish a race with riders of clearly much higher aptitude and ability, so roadies tend to have more of a flase sense of themselves. They have more attitude because they think they are one of the manna cause they can sit in the bunch and then sprint and look good. So yeah I do agree, a lot of windgat roadies out there, but there are also great people in all aspects of the sport and these are the people that I choose to spend time with. For interest. I am a pure roadie.

Good point!

Pro cycling in SA is a hard job. The industry is just not big enough and nor is the marketing platform and viewer base. It is however a good introduction and learning platform to give it a shot in SA beforeheading overseas. That is when the steep learning curve begins.

Wanted to see if there was a benefit of having a thread whereby we can post trusted sellers details. Post a trusted sellers HUB name here if you have bought something and you received it. Maybe a short review of what you thought. Only give a bad review or a warning if you have seriously been scammed/ripped off and you have spent some good effort in tryng to solve any issues. Don't give a guy a bad cred if he did try, but something outside his control went horribly wrong. Such as post office loosing goods but cannot trace it. If you want to see who is trusted and approved simply use the search function at the top right of the page to search inside this thread.

I think it would also be good if buyers gave some feedback. That way there is a better feel about the seller especially if the buyers have cred here.

I think there would be more of a security risk posting your personal details. Besides, You could easily lie about your address, etc. I personally don't post my name and details for one reason only. I often make reference to my equipment and having a large amount of money invested in these products and from sponsors I don't want would-be thieves to know where they can fnd me and my equipment. I also sell a lot of stuff on the hub and always give my cell number via PM for buyers to phone me. That way they can hear my voice and make a better judgement of whether they are at risk of me ripping them off or not. I would suggest that if you buy something and are worried, give the guy a call and find out what his real name is and what club he rides for. Then if you still don't have a good feeling just phone his club to see if he is a genuine rider and what his character is like.

We don't need mods, people need to use their own common sense when buying. And we also don't need a fee to advertise, do you think R50 is going to deter a skelm who makes much much more from scams?

Pretty normal. Worst is when you been doing that for 3 hours trying to get home and even that does not help. I suffered a few times pre going fulltime days. After getting up over the 20k mark per annum I was forced to learn quickly and sort out these kinds of things. Pain and suffering makes you learn quickly. Sometimes I sit in my office again wishing I was back on the bike, but then I remind myself of the bad days and just think it was a good time and I lived the dream, but damn I suffered to be there and am enjoying being behind a desk again.

Remove your ears (weight and aero saving) Pinky fingers and small toes One kidney Tonsils Appendix All "hidden" teeth on one side of youur mouth All your hair Have a gastric bypass Get circumcised if you not already. And last, but not least, remove on testicle or bank your seed and do both. That should do the trick.

I would firstly move the cleat toward the front of the shoe if possible in order to bring your ball of your big toe directly in line with the pedal axle. Also make sure you get your little bone under your knee cap in line as it effects how your foot "moves" in relation to the shoe. Obviously this also effects saddle height so you may need to check all. Also make sure the shoe/foot angles 90deg to the pedal axle with cleat itself aligned with pedal axle. This may solve your problem. Reason I suggest this is that you effectively place more pressure on the front of your foot or toes when your foot is too far back and this extra pressure is what aggrevates the nerves. You will probably also find that your foot tends to rotate over to the side the pain is on. Check this and try keep your foot/ball area flat in your shoe with most of the pressure square in the middle of your ball. Check also if your knee are maybe not too far out. Exaggeration would be David Kramer style. Knees should almost touch frame for an ideal motion. If yo get all this right the problem should go away.

On the other hand you also get the guy who clearly cannot afford the bike (and you know this cause he comes 3 times a week) but stands and chats about the bike and the bling and the options and the benefits and the weights and all the pros and cons and and and and and never buys the damn thing whilst there are other customers who need help. Difficult one to handle cause you actually get a lot of these guys.

Ja, that's what I mean. Been a long day.

My experience is that bike shops do not phone you back unless they know youu well or you make a huge fuss onetime after a big purchase. I think they just don't want to spend the money on phone bills or just get busy and don't get back to you.

Where are your feet burning? Both sides the same? Check the ball of your big toe. Is it directly over the axis of the pedal when your crank is horizontal? In the same position, is the bump under your knee cap in the exact same horizontal plane? Can you take a picture of both your cleats and post?

Carbon does not react well to torsion. As hangin it off of a clamp on the top tube with no lower support the tob tube will experience a large amount of torsion in this area. I would not suggest you transport your bike like this. Similar to why carbon fork and seat post manufacturers do not suggest you twist clamped or tight components to adjust. Rather spend the money on a proper bike rack even if it means havingonly 2-3 spaces.

CRC should pay as customs works purely on contents of parcel according to the invoice. And, you will never convince them otherwise. CRC should pay, good luck! Bad situation.

I think the thread is fine, just don't want the past to spoil it so hoping we will all delete our off topic threads so we can contiue the thread from where we got off.

Off topic posts deleted from my side.

My only experience with broken chains is due to people/shops who don't know that you get different pins for different chains. Most shops I have visited seem to think that all 10spd chains use the same pin, which is not true and if too short a pin is used on a chain it can de-link and then it will most probably fail. A lot of shops also break the pin on the outside which can cause noise everytime the pin moves past the front derailler (shold always be broken off on the inside of the chain. Some shops also fit chains bawards in that a join has the outer linkfacing "forward" so that if it comes loose and stick out it will get caught in the deaillers and get broken off. The outer link should always be on the trailing side so that it cannot stick out and get broken off. I.e. the outer link should be facing in the opposite direction to chain travel.

Ah Tikki. If you had the coaching services of the Great LS then you would have needed a sponsorship as that Pro Package is expensive even in Canadian Dollars. Good to see you are still doing well! Will send you a PM later tonight to catch up. P.S. I have also gotten back into coaching since getting back from the US. Time to give back after all the good years I had on the bike.

Ok so I concede that I am not 100% correct as there is more to this: Max heart rate should be defined as the absolute max your heart rate is able to go in any given situation. Max heart rate used for training will need to be sport specific and hence Sport Specicif Max Heart Rate. So we should then maybe distinguish between a sport specific max heart rate and a max heart rate. I.e. if you know your running max, but don't know your cycling max, then you should determine your cycling max for cycling. We should then use the phrase Cycling Max Heart Rate in future debates. Will aid in understanding. Apologies to Fletcher then!

Whoever Fletcher is, if this is true what he told you, he does not know what he is talking about. If he conducted his tests correctly he would find that max heart rate is max heart rate is max heart rate no matter what sports you do. Does not sound like a test centre I would spend my money at. I hope you not putting wrong words in his mouth?

Some makes, but if you are referring to doing away with stress concentrations it will only help to reduce internal stress. The stress concentratioon in question is due to the sharp transition between weld and tube and the non-uniformity inthe area. A good welder will create a nice smooth weld that has a nice transition from tube to weld to tube. Having a "bump" causes the stress concentration. No amount of heat treatment wil help such.

Personally I would also not weld it, but it sounds from a few comments that there may be more sentimental value and getting her back on the road may be worth it. All depends on just how bad the bike is needed or wanted back on the road.

And that is why there is such a thing as a safety factor as well as endurance, fatigue and strength testing. Bottom line is, something that is properly designed and properly made will not break within its expected lifetime and for bicycle the expected lifetime is not 5 years. Either way, this failure is due to poor design and/or manufacture. Period. To answer you question - I am a consulting mechanical engineer in design and development. Mostly for the Auto Industry.