The_Break

Most shoes I have set up on people have to be moved back as far as possible in order to get to the ball over axle position so dont be fooled when people say as far back as possible.

The bone of the ball of your big toes should always be directly over the axle of the pedal. Assuming stragith ahead clearts, your legs are the same length, your saddle is correctly set with regards height and fore/aft position you should not get injuries from another cleat position. If you are getting injuries it is from another cause and not cleat position. Moving to the rear or front of the pedal axle only causes the foot to tend to rotate around the axle as your force is coming from the balls of your feet. It is when this rotation takes place that you cause unwanted strain, wasted energy that is not good for cycling. All bike setups should begin with correct cleat placement, then saddle height, then fore/aft, then readjustment of saddles height and foreaft till correct and then the height and distance of the handle bars.

I am going to vote ANC... ...out of power. My street lamp has been broken for 6 months with a promise it will be fixed "tomorro."

Just don't strip your shoe threads with all the changing or you will end up buying new shoes anyway. I would go with a 2nd pair if you spin a lot. Other option is to change the pedals at the gym. Should see the guys faces when you unclip at the end of a class and they see Look Keos on the bike.

Slowbee, light is not always better as there are 3 things to look at when setting up for a specific race: Mass of component Stiffness Aerodynamics For instance if you are riding a flat, fast marathon, then weight is not so important, more aero dynamics in that case. If you are riding a very, hilly, technical course at lower speeds with lots of stop and goes then mass is more important, together with stiffness of your setup. Each situation needs to become as efficient as possible. And so yes, it has all to do with the type of riding. This is exactly why high end components generally become so expensive, because they take these 3 factors and put them into one product. When I choose my setup for a race I normally go through the course and develop a few scenarios of how I think the race will pan out as well as the type of riding I expect. I then look at my strengths and compare them to the racing I expect and then I decide on which wheels, which cranks, tyres, etc I am going to ride. For instance, I do not always choose to ride deep section wheels in races that are very hilly and technical or in criteriums as riding a nice stiff set of slightly heavier wheels is a better choice as they are stiff so in the out the saddle attacks and sprints I get more out of the bike.

Spoking being equal. Main factors to consider on hub are rolling resistance of bearings and axle stiffness. Main thing to consider on rim is aero and weight (for straight line as well as angular acceleration). On a MTB I would more say you would want to change the rim first as to a lighter one as it is all ab out stop and go stop and go. You would get more of a benefit from reducing the weight there than on the hub.

Are you looking for pro bono or are you prepared to pay market rates?

I used it for a few months. Recovery was good and I felt an improvement in training, HOWEVER, it pretty much messed up my social side of things. It made me extremely aggressive and short tempered. I would loose it for the smallest thing. After having consulted with friends who suggested that creatine had given them similar mood swings I stopped using it. Moods returned to normal. Started using again and moods got bad again. It does not have this effect on everyone, so just watch out if this happens to you. Caused one too many fights between me and my ex GF at the time. In hindsite it was maybe a good thing.

If they catch you they will make you pay and hit you with a big fine. If your bud does not have the cash on him they will take it away from him and send it to the State Warehouse. Once there they will charge you rather expensive storage and you will still have to pay the duties vat and penalties. If you are lucky enough to get it out of there. Do it the right way and don't steal from our economy.

Hi Guys Anyone know where I can pick up an Adamo Road saddle at an online price? Regards, The Break

Check out www.cwcycles.co.za and also visit the shop. Online may sell bikes and will be cheaper than the shop, but may allow you to pick up. Best shop in town.

53-11 I spin out at just over 70km/h. Doing about 120RPM but bouncing a bit too much.

So you are the guys taking millions out of our economy and sending it offshore. Great! Guess we will have more unemployed hubbers.

What components do they have on them? My advice is pick the one that looks the nicest to you if the components are all on the same level and make sure you are correctly fitted to the right size bike in the right way.

Here is my 2c worth. To put it in perspective I spent last year cycling fulltime and often had weeks up to 900km/week. Purely road riding, but the time in the saddle is what counts. When I buy a saddle I concentrate on two things: As little padding as possible Saddle must only touch my two sitting bones and no other area of my crotch. The reasoning behind this is that when you buy a very cushioned saddle, which toches in more areas and you add a nice thick shammy to that, what happens, especially if you have too much flab, is that everything gets compressed and that is when the discomfor and irritation starts. Riding a hard saddle that only touches you sitting bones can only irritate two small circle of skin under the sitting bones and very much like the skin of your elbows (pinch it to test) you will have no feeling in them after enough riding. The nerves seem to stop transmitting. If I pinch these two areas on my butt I feel nothing just like my elbows. Once took a 4 month forced break and they actually started to feel again. A few weeks of riding and you should have no more problems. Trick is finding a saddle that fits your ass like described. For me, it is the Selle San Marco Aspide. Anyway, that is what worked really well for me and I have enjoyed many years of riding without any saddle discomfort whatsoever.

It is inseem dependent, but about 90% of people I ride with including myself who are 178-182cm ride a 54-56cm. I would have a bike shop do your measurements and also compare you measurements to the manufacturers specs and recommendations.

Nice going to get that sub 3!!!!

Dream Bike - The one I ride Cervelo S2 2010 White and Red Ultegra 6700 Gruppo ex crank Zipp Vuma Quad Crankset Campagnola Bora Ultra tubular wheelset with ceramic grade 3 upgrade Vittoria Corsa EVO CX tubular tyres Zipp 145 stem Zipp SL short and shallow handlebar Selle San Marco Aspide FX Ti saddle Look Keo Carbon Ti pedals Fizik white handlebar tape and end plugs Mass: 6.81kg Aero, all-round stiff and on the weight limit.

Your headset is too tight. Take it to a shop so they can set it properly. If you do not know this then I would not suggest trying to fix it yourself. Ask them to show you how.

For SA to have World Class Riders we need World Class Coaches which we do not have. You would be shocked to hear how CSA have treated there national and olympic coaches. It is actually a disgrace that coaches are expected to do so much often for no pay and then on the odd trip get a flight and basic costs paid. No wonder we don't have what it takes on a world level. There are a few basics that CSA will need to implement: Better coaches - not just putting coaches through to level 2 on a few weekend courses without proper training, development and experience as we have seen this past year. Better planning for national and international events - unlike the shambles we have seen the past months. Better use of funds, especiallythe Lotto funds (which government may or may not pay depending on how they feel) whereby those that deserve it get to use it and not those that are simply lucky enough to have the right skin colour. Better nurturing of juniors. An improves system. The current seeding system is a failure and this will only become apparent once the statistics of this and next years races shows a decline in race numbers especially from an elite and slightly lower level. Currently those who are good who do not have a team or cannot find a team to travel to all the events must ride B. Who will waste money to travel to races such as OFM simply to ride B group? I think a total re-look into the way the sport is run in SA is necessary. We do not need to re-invent the wheel when working models exists in countries such as Germaany, France, Spain, Australia, America, Italy, etc. We simply need to look for assistance.

What if you moved the STI forward and slightly over the front and then rotated your bars counter clockwise or upward? You may get 2cm out of it if you can still sprint on shorter drops. A slightly shorter (10-20mm) stem may help too. Do you have tight hammies and lower back?

Sweet ride!!!! You don't drink much?

Selle San Marco Aspide is a ridiculously nice and comfortable saddle for me.

Dude, that is such a sweet bike, but please put the spacers at the bottom and flip your stem upside down. It looks Dorris! Disclaimer: Only do this if your maximum allowable stack height is still achievable with the fork in question.

I think if he is not using it to set your zones then whatever he is doing just trust him. If you are setting zones then one sticks to a different testing procedure. The 20min and 60min give good values for this even though they are super hard to sustain at times. Those figures look fine for a sub 3 hour with a good start group. Good luck!