Hold menu, select GPS, select GPS status, Set enabled = no, press back and you're done. Same process to turn it back on, but set enabled = yes. Edit: or just turn it off and on, and it'll sort itself out!
Ah yes, I had a look in the manual myself, only 2.1 or 2.35. That being said, my 2.1 is 2068 (26"), so surely yours should be more than 2053? Did you measure manually?
G, have a look in the manual. I'm pretty sure I saw values in the Edge 500 manual. Tank, why not both? Properly measured wheelsize will be far more accurate that GPS?
The pro's ride tubbies for a whole host of other reasons that high pressure though: Lighter rims, increased puncture resistance, no more pinch flats. Higher pressure means less rolling resistance and increased puncture protection, at the cost of comfort.
It'll never be at MTB lower pressure, but running a setup at 80-90 psi can be much more forgiving than 110-120 psi. I personally don't do tubeless on a road bike, I dont think it's quite there yet. Maybe in the future it'll become the de facto standard as it has (probably) become in MTB. Also, wider contact area has been shown to have lower rolling resistance, which is why pro's are now riding 700cx25 instead of 23.
Supposedly it saves a little bit of weight and can reduce flats. I think the main reasons are similar to MTB: lower pressure = more compliant ride and better traction.
I don't think what is being discussed in the Chinese Carbon Thread is necessarily fake items, is it? More replica's that are not claiming to be the actual product. This chap is trying to sell obviously fake products for a large, large markup. I know it's a fine line, but I think the distinction of fake vs. replica (copying design but not actual product) is an important one.
Gummi, what are the tell tale signs. I can see why these could be considered fake, but what does one look for in fake/proper Zipps? For example, the easiest way to tell fake Bora's for me is the absence of the G3 spoke pattern at the rear. What is the equivalent sign in Zipp wheels?
