Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

Yeha. I did that little experiment with a loosened QR and a rapid stop, while I was working on my bike. Or as soon as you hit a jump. Bubye wheel...

but, but, but - they both spec RP2's!

Erm... I'll hold myself back on this one. People claiming forearm injuries and elbow pain from "overuse" offers a plethora of witty ripostes.

Ah. Then that does change things. Hmmmm. You can convert the rl to the better rlt. Hmmmm. Very difficult decision this. Me, I'd go for the rl then. Yes, I'm changing my mind. But with the dual air you can tune it to be as good as the rlt. Just that darn floodgate that you'll be missing. Which you can retrofit, if you want. Personally I'd go the dual rl 15mm over the solo 9mm rlt. But I've already said why I'd do that. Another reason is that I believe lockout has no place on an MTB. Edit: my comments on the stiffness issue stand. I am just that rider who does (try to) hit the hard stuff and I have noticed a difference in stiffness between my Reba and my revelation (9mm with 10mm solid axle set at 120mm vs revelation 20mm TA set at 120mm on my hardtail)

Not on a Reba, no. Edit: even though 15mm TA is better than qr, unless you're hauling ass or taking jumps etc then you may not be noticing it. If you were on a trail bike then I'd say for sure you would benefit from a thru axle as the bike would be taking bigger hits and the increased stiffness would be warranted. But if you're on an xc bike then the difference (palpable, Ito what u feel and how it performs) would be less than if you upgraded the wheels. If you were buying a revelation, I'd say go for a thru axle. But at beginner / weekend warrior (non racing) and no jumping / meg technical stuff, you won't get that much benefit from the increased stiffness

THOSE! Cheaper than CRC and you (should) have them soonerish.

Yeah. Apparently there were spots of gross crap with their fitment and quality. I know they make great hoses, so that's what made me look at them. Seems you got a good pair!

BUGGER. I also missed the "niner" bit.

I was thinking of those, but the reviews made me run. Fast. And the Deore brakes r cheaper. o contest, in this case.

I'd go for these (Deore front & rear fro R 1,300 landed) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=67246 With one of these: Suntour Epicon (VERY good fork by a VERY good manufacturer. Just not as bling as RS / Fox - I'd buy one if I was looking for a new fork on a budget. Suntour answer to RS Reba) https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/55871-suntour-epicon-tad/ Recon Gold (also a very good "budget" fork but I'd rate the Epicon over the Recon.) https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/55421-rock-shox-recon-gold/

THAT'S the one I was looking for!

They are. The difference is that Crossmarks suck at EVERYTHING.

Plus your son probably thinks it was hilarious with all the "proper riding" you do. Can see the smirk on his face right now! Dude, we live and learn. One of my worst wipeouts was when I was showing my wife "the ropes" Was going too slow for a drop off of about a metre and just face planted HARD.

Haha! Yeah. Monorails and mud r never a good combo. And the restarting with spuddies thing!? Half the reason I went back to flats.

Ya I never got the memo about those smaller rotor sizes.

Exactly. On an xc bike and weighing in as you do a 203mm would be overkill. Saying that, I'm looking at getting 203 up front but then I ride an AM bike and am rather portly.

Eish. Dude. I'm 105 And formula r1's on 180's stopped me PLENTY fast enough. My advice - keep it 180. Seriously.

Yep and yep.

Rlt over rl trumps dual air over solo any day.

Rlt over rl any day of the week.

For the majority of users though, I'd recommend solo air purely due to the set up "issues" and plug n play status.

Yeah true. I know quite a few people wifi got fairly peeved with theirs. But once you found their sweet spot (different for each person) then oh. My. Word. My revelation eventually had the neg hovering around 2-3 psi less than positive. Positive was set HARD. LIKE REALLY HARD. But the fork just gobbled up everything in its path a d was super plush without sacrificing travel. My Reba had a totally different setting. But maybe that's just how my mind works. Suppose it comes from going to a technically based high school and (partly) studying mech eng. I just seemed to "get it".

True for the majority of users yeah. But I can't help thinking that if they're going to dumb it down, dumb it down completely except on a few models. My lyrik for example. I have high speed compression, low speed compression and rebound adjustment not to mention the positive air chamber and floodgate. But apparently the inclusion of the neg air chamber would "confuse me" and immediately make my fork crap. No thanks. Dumb it down completely but keep the top end forks dual air please.

Personally I prefer dual air as they are more tunable. You can alter the negative air pressure whereas with the solo air the fork has no negative air adjustability and it is linked directly to the pressure in the positive air chamber. For some, this "set and forget" option on the solo is like the holy grail. For me, I prefer the dual air cos I like to tinker and get exactly the right settings for me, which may not be the ones that RS dictate that I should be using. Solo, you set the positive and the negative chamber is automatically set according to the positive pressure. No more adjustments except the normal rebound / compression. So you can't set the "plushness" of the fork as easily as you could with a dual. Saying that, I now have a solo air lyrik as that was the only available option to me.

I mean in the on position.