Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

Best of luck, mate!

so what is it you're looking for? Someone to train with? A cheap 2nd hand bike that you will most probably want to upgrade in 2.3 months? A date? (don't laugh - it has been requested on The Hub before...) Bit more info needed mate. But welcome!!! The sooner you get on a bike, the better you'll feel.

just unscrew the little screw all the way, deflate the tube fully, and screw the bottle of slime onto the valve housing (if not threaded, just force it down the valve stem) then squeeze. The pressure from the slime being forced out will cause the piston to depress, allowing the slime into the tube. Just be sure to get the slime that has a bottle suitable for presta valves, because the ones for schrader valves DO have a bigger nozzle. I've done it without a problem for years now...

Bastard... Ruin a perfectly good campaign by going against what it says. What car was he/she driving?

Well, seeing as there's more than a year between ride number 2 & ride number 3, maybe he started with a development team, and started trainign really hard to be able to get those (resonably) high finishes. Now that the reason he's in elite is sorted, it still doesn't say that all he knows is how to pedal - nothing to do with bike handling ability and etiquette... You can ride as fast as you want. But if you don't have all the knowhow and experience (not to mention common sense) to ride properly, you shouldn't be in the elite batch.

They work pretty well, though not as well as a camelbak. Still need to freeze it the night before...

Heh... Hi-Q stores are all franchised, and prices differ from store to store. Which is why you have to phone around for prices, and is probably why the manager was a pr1ck. They buy all the stock at a set price from the distributors, and decide what price to sell it on for. I only go to one Hi-Q branch, because I've received EXCELLENT service there. It boils down to how the individual franchisees decide to run their establishments as to how you will be treated...

Mine's 13k each way, and I'm starting it up again next week, because our shower is finally finished!

Got mine, and it's a BB @ 07h43 reasonably happy with it, but have neglected the training this year...

My word those bikes are SCHWEEEET! Wish I had the tom to splurge on the Lunch Box... Hitting Tokai, Jonkers & Majik on that thing would leave me with a SERIOUS grin on my mug.

I ride oth, but lately find myself taking the road bike out more often than the MTB. That might have something to do with the fact that the road bike is newer, however!!!

Hence why they're such good value.

Yeah, best to go 2nd hand if you know where the bike has been, and if you know how to look for faults (BB cracks, bust forks etc) But if you don't, then you can't go wrong with Silverback, Felt or funnily enough Raleigh (with their Inflation beater specials they are a really good option) Merida are also a good option, although lately they're a bit more expensive... Just be sure that for 10 - 12k you're coming away with full 105 gruppo on an Alu bike.

And therein lies the dilemma... The main question is always: What is the main purpose of the bike? If we take the original post: it doesn't sound like Gavin needs anything for serious MTBing. In that case the Reno is probably the best buy you can get. My thoughts: I would like to ride mainly off-road' date=' but am a beginner, so do I get something like a Silverback Phoenix (jughead_dave suggested looking at minimum Deore components) or a Reno (Silverbackman reckons the Reno is quite capable on even more difficult terrain). Aesthetically speaking, I love the Phoenix. It also has the Deore set. It is, however, important to note that there is a R3000 difference in price between the Phoenix & the Reno(a big difference if all you want to do is get fit & maybe do a trail or 2). I'll be looking to riding my bike daily, mainly commuting to and from work(save petrol, keep fit), but then also going trail riding over weekends. My head says: "the Reno is well priced, and will do the job". My heart says: "the Phoenix is so pretty...you want it...you need it...my precious!". Sometimes you just have to follow your heart. [/quote'] Point taken but I must add that many of us can probably testify to the fact that we made buys that were intended for the weight loss purpose....well in my case and Dirty Twin it was. Since then we ahve done the Trans Baviaans twice and many others which I would never have done on a Reno. And also you have to take into account the difference in spec between the 2 bikes you are considering... They can add up to a lot in terms of "rideability" as well as value when considering both the upgrade from a part - to - part basis as well as the upgrade on the frame that comes along with it. With the Phoenix v Reno argument, the Phoenix is an endlessly more rideable bike, and cannot be reasonably compared to the Reno for the simple fact that it blows it out of the water. Consider: Suntour XCT v Suntour XLR - BIG difference in response & durability. Take it from me, I've ridden both and can honestly say that the XLR is a FAR better fork Shimano Acera (and worse) v Shimano Deore - Again - a huge difference in reliability and work ethic. Deore is just plain stronger. Considered as the "workhorse" of the MTB groupsets. It relegates Acera to the dust (not to mention it's 2 level above - It goes Acera, Alivio, Deore) 8 speed v 9 speed. Need i say more. Finally - V brake v Hydraulic Disc. No more argument. The upgrade from V brake to Discs alone will cost more than 3k (replace fork, wheels, brakes etc) and is MORE than worth the extra dosh. Take our advice - go for the Phoenix. Not only does it look better, but it will facilitate your x-training that much better. It will outlast the Reno by years, and you will not feeel the neeeeeed to upgrade as heavily as if you buy the Reno as a starter. Finally - it's just a better bike. Far better than the extra 3k suggests.

Used to have that problem, Trapper - but the distributors & SA postal service are mainly to blame. Got mine yesterday, a full 2 weeks before the previous one was delivered (in terms of issue date to delivery) Still worth the wait though! Top Mag Sean and Co...

What type of trails does the guide expect to tackle with that double-crowner he has on the front end?!

Congrats Desmond...

No, it means you gave it too much Viagra last night. Yes, basically. Might need cleaning, but it could be as bad as a corroded link in which case you'll have to either: Put in a new link or Buy a new chain. Just clean it well with Cleen Green, or some other degreasing agent, then apply some 5 in 1 oil to the chain to get it lubed up again.

okay - let's start at the beginning... type of bike (Trail, All Mountain, Marathon, Cross Country etc) generally describes the type of riding it'll be suited to. Trail bikes - your "middle road" bikes that'll be suited to most types of riding - they're heavier than XC (cross country) bikes, but are still relatively light. They also have a bit more travel than their XC / Marathon counterparts, but not as much travel as an all mountain rig. They're what you'd get if you're still concerned with going quickly uphill, but want something that can handle the jumps a bit easier on the run down. Think of a Jack of all trades... this is it. XC - generally lighter, less travel and lighter than the rest. Concerned with going as fast as possible up the hills, and generally the domain of hardtails (no back suspension) Would not suit a downhill course due to the smaller amount of travel. Marathon - Like XC, but generally full suspension as opposed to hardtail due to the need for comfort over the longer riding distances. Think the bikes the pros use to ride the Cape Epic. All mountain - gnarlier than Trail bikes, more suspension travel and also heavier as a result. Built to take the knocks, and be fast downhill but not that concerned with going up the hills. Downhill / Freeride - the Grand Daddy of mountain bikes - what all MTB's secretly yearn to be, they laugh in the face of rocks, 3 metre drop-offs and rock-strewn pathways with the fervour of a 6 year old in Hamley's toy store. Lots of suspension travel, dual crown forks (like those you see on motorbikes) and heavy as hell. Show them an uphill, and they'll make you wither and die of shame. Because you should be going down, not up! Suspension designs - they differ across the manufacturers for a very simple reason - each believes that their design is the best. They are all based on just a few suspension designs, though the utilisation of those designs would differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. For example - both GT and Morewood use a single-pivot design, yet have a look at the difference in the look of the bikes! They are also all concerned with one thing - minimising pedal bob (the loss of power to the wheels while pedalling that results from the up and down motion of the bike) while maximising suspension travel & efficiency. Curved tubes: Same as suspension - all manufacturers believe that their way of bending tubes is the best way to maximise strength, rigidity and weight of the frame whilst keeping it visually appealing and usable. Some are hydroformed (shaped by water / oil in order to get a seamless curve that could not be attained by cutting and welding) in order to retain structural strength, whilst others are left tubular in order to be as simple as possible. It's purely down to aesthetics, in most cases.

Sounds as if the cable needs a teeny bit more tension in it. There should be a ferrule (screwy thing) at the back of the rear derailleur. Turn it in an anti-clockwise position (as if you were unscrewing it) about 1/4 a turn or so. Then test it again, and adjust accordingly. It'll be a bit of trial and error, but each time you change the position of the screwy thing you'll need to change gears a couple of times to re-set the position of the derailleur (it moves slightly out of position when you turn the screwy thing) As for the chain rubbing on the Front derailleur, we need to ask a few questions before we go there... Are you running the bike on the smallest cog at the back while you're in the smallest cog at the front? Are you doing the opposite (ie: big cog at the back, big cog at front)? If you are doing one of those two, then stop riding in those combinations. It places undue stress on the chain, and you can almost exactly replicate the ratio by changing to a different combination. If you answered no to the above questions - you'll need to adjust the derailleur "stops" by using a screwdriver to screw/unscrew the screw (marked H if it's rubbing while in the big ring, or L if it's rubbing while you're in the small ring. If it's rubbing while you're in the middle ring, you need to play with the cable tension as described in the next paragraph) on top of the front derailleur. Once again, this is a case of trial and error, so it may be a while before it's adjusted properly. You should see the derailleur moving to the left / right in response to your adjustments on the screw. Stop when you think it's in the right position, change gears and review the position of the derailleur. Repeat or re-adjust if necessary until it's in the right position. Once you've done this, and if the chain is still rubbing (and the chain is touching the derailleur on it's Right hand side) you might have to do the same thing you did to the rear derailleur. There should be a small screwy thing on the left hand shifter, which you'll also need to adjust to get the correct amount of tension. Either way, just play with those settings until you've found a happy medium. Hope this helps!!! And welcome to the beginning of servicing your own bike!!!

I think this not only applies to one-directional traffic (ie: keep left, pass right principle) but also to where the track is bi-directional. I can't count how many times I've been hurtling down a dual / jeep track section - be it between ST sections or just because I'm too screwed to take the ST down - and some tjop is coming up (or down, for that matter) on MY side of the track ie: the RHS of the road / trail when they know perfectly well that they should be on the left. Everyone knows the idea of keeping left, and in these cases it's for good reason. In that case, I empathise with Tyreone. If it's uni-directional though, pass where you can.

Smaak it STUKKEND!!! Well done, Mr. Geometry!

Agree with Mr. Brundson there - but if you're going to be spending 10k on a hardtail, you're going to be getting something with a decent level of spec. Just don't go for the name without having ridden the bike first! You'll probably find that you can get a Merida / Felt / Trek / Silverback with a fair bit beter spec simply because they're not Bianchi. Shop around, and have a look at all the options. At the 10k pricepoint, you'll definitely be in the market of Hydraulic discs (Juicy 3 or SLX) slx / xt components and a decent-ish entry level fork. Just do your homework before you buy - and ask questions on here. You might get some stupid-ass replies (especially if you start talking about nipples) but you'll get some nuggets as well. Me, personally - I'd go for the Merida or Felt. But make sure they come with the external bb's as some bikes are still specced with the internal ones. HAPPY HUNTING!

also note that it is NOT illegal to "undertake" (pass to the left) if: On the freeway, passing a right-turning car, or under the direction of a Plod - Unless you drive in the shoulder and are not told to do so by Plod.

Correction - the vehicle being passed may, if the conditions permit him to and the action is safe, move over into the yellow line in order to let faster vehicles pass. BUT you have to get back in the normal lane after the vehicle has passed, otherwise you are continually driving in the yellow lane, which is an offence. Read below... Passing of vehicle 298. (1) Subject to the provisions of subregulation (2) and (4) and regulation 296, the driver of a vehicle intending to pass any other vehicle proceeding in the same direction on a public road shall pass to the right thereof at a safe distance and shall not again drive on the left side of the roadway until safely clear of the vehicle so passed: Provided that, in the circumstances as aforesaid, passing on the left of such vehicle shall be permissible if the person driving the passing vehicle can do so with safety to himself or herself and other traffic or property which is or may be on such road and-- the vehicle being passed is turning to its right or the driver thereof has signalled his or her intention of turning to his or her right; such road is a public road in an urban area and-- is restricted to vehicles moving in one direction; and the roadway is of sufficient width for two or more lines of moving vehicles; such road is a public road in an urban area and the roadway is of sufficient width for two or more lines of moving vehicles moving in each direction; the roadway of such road is restricted to vehicles moving in one direction and is divided into traffic lanes by appropriate road traffic signs; or he or she is driving in compliance with the directions of a traffic officer or is driving in traffic which is under the general direction of such officer, and in accordance with such direction: Provided further that in no event shall any passing referred to in paragraph (a), (b), © or (d) be done by driving on the shoulders of the roadway or on the verge of the public road concerned. (2) The driver of a vehicle shall not pass other traffic proceeding in the same direction on a public road when approaching-- the summit of a rise; a curve; or any other place where his or her view is so restricted that any such passing could create a hazard in relation to other traffic which might approach from the opposite direction, unless-- he or she can do so without encroaching on the right-hand side of the roadway; or the roadway of such road is restricted to vehicles moving in one direction. (3) The driver of a vehicle on a public road shall, except in the circumstances referred to in the first proviso to subregulation (1), upon becoming aware of other traffic proceeding in the same direction and wishing to pass his or her vehicle, cause his or her vehicle to travel as near to the left edge of the roadway as is possible, without endangering himself or herself or other traffic or property on the roadway, and shall not accelerate the speed of his or her vehicle until the other vehicle has passed. (4) When about to pass oncoming traffic, the driver of a vehicle on a public road shall ensure that the vehicle driven by him or her does not encroach on the roadway to his or her right in such manner as may obstruct or endanger such oncoming traffic. (5) The driver of a vehicle intending to pass a stationary bus on a public road shall do so with due care for the safety of persons who are approaching or leaving or may approach or leave such bus. Prohibition on driving on shoulder of public road, except in certain circumstances 298A. (1) Subject to subregulation (2) and regulation 298(1)(e), no person shall drive a motor vehicle on the shoulder of a public road. (2) Notwithstanding subregulation (1), the driver of a motor vehicle may, during the period between sunrise and sunset, drive such motor vehicle on the shoulder of a public road which is designated for one lane of traffic in each direction-- while such motor vehicle is being overtaken by another vehicle; andif he or she can do so without endangering himself or herself, other traffic, pedestrians or property on such public road; and if persons and vehicles upon a public road are clearly discernible at a distance of at least 150 metres.