seven

Interesting

I also find that "gym" does not increase my weight (as long as I keep the cardio up). I think it would actually increase your power:weight ratio, not decrease it.

O-Synce mixPro http://www.o-synce.com/en/products/running-fitness/mix-series/mixpro.html Free analysis software. Compatible with most other software/tracking systems.

Thanx! I'll have a look at Cape Union Mart

Agree

From the net. 1. Sometimes speed wobble can result simply because of a poorly manufactured and designed frame. The wheels may be misaligned (front wheel and back wheel aren’t tracking in the same spot) and the bike is fighting itself. There are very few frames this poorly made these days, but you’ll still find them. 2 A scenario seen relatively often is that the top tube of the bike is under-built. If you put a lot of weight on the saddle the front end of the bike can pivot around the seat tube and create oscillation. An under-built top tube isn’t stiff enough to stop that from happening. Another thing that can happen is that the trail (the product of head angle and fork rake) of the bike is too large. What happens is that the bike becomes too stable at speed and the large trail over corrects itself and brings the wheel past center, and the wheel moves back and recorrects itself again which is where the wobble comes from. This is relatively common problem that Baum tells me he’s seen in the past. 3. Incorrect weight distribution is a very common cause of speed wobble. Quite often, speed wobble has just as much to do with the rider as it does with the bike. If speed wobble starts occurring, many people will intuatively put their weigh towards the back of the bike instead of putting their weight towards the front to actually stop it and dampen it out. The best thing to do to get out of a wobble is to weight one of your legs down at the 6/12 o’clock position, put some weight on the front end by bending your elbows (use soft hands – don’t grip handlebars firmly!), and take some weight off your seat (to take the pivot point away) which puts more weight back on the handlebars, which puts more weight on the front wheel. This will usually bring stability back to the bike and correct the oscillation. The reason it’s suggested that the pedals be in the 6/12 o’clock position (rather than the 3/9 o’clock position) is because this will bring your body weight into a better balanced position which will calm the bike down. Different riders may experience speed wobble on different bikes. A bike can descend like a dream for one rider, while another will get the fright of his life on the very same bike. Things like stem length on a particular geometry and weight distribution of the rider can have a lot to do with it.

May be not the best forum to ask, but I’m looking for a backpack to run with. Any suggestions? Perhaps some of the AR guys can help. Would like to use if for general running to gym etc. and a 40k (round trip) running commute to and from work once a week. Ideally something stable around the torso. The bag I currently use for my cycle commute just won't work.

Excuse my lack of ‘technical knowledge’ but… I cannot see how a combination of forefoot and rearfoot varus would cause this, or how a 1.5mm lift would make any difference. Are you saying it should be a medial (inside of the foot only) lift, not the entire foot? Surely the body (leg) can compensate enough to make up the 1.5mm, especially in cycling? Would this not be linked more to tibial torsion than simply varus/valgus? I agree that slight overextension of the knee (or excessively deep flexion as in Surv0MTB’s case) could aggravate this. If there is no previous history of this I would follow V12 and check cleat position again. Most cyclists could do with a little toeing-out, but tend to set their cleats up so the feet run parallel to the crank arm. I would also drop the seat a bit, and try to minimise grinding the big gears/hills for a while. Even though VMO/VL may be an issue, it tends to start with the knee collapsing to the inside during the power stroke. Even though this is sometimes linked to a more ‘aero’ position, it is generally not very good for knee function. As a last thought, do you have the same amount of float on your new cleats as the old ones? With new cleats (even if it’s the exact same model as old set), it send to be more stiff once clipped in, allowing less float. Alignment is perhaps more important with new cleats than older worn ones. No expert, just some thoughts.

Love the black

I totally agree with you, but it does not condone this “I rule the road” attitude that everyone (pedestrians, cyclists, motorists, taxi drivers, etc...) has in SA. No one gives a **** about the other.

I was cycling on Botha ave from Centurion towards Fountains yesterday. Lots of cyclists use it over weekends as it has a BIG FAT emergency lane. I came across 2 bunches riding 3 abreast, with the left-most cyclist on the yellow line, and the other 2 taking up most of the 1st lane. All 3 of them could easily fit into the emergency lane...

Pre-launch price... VIRB R3999.00 VIRB Elite R5199.00

VIRB R3999.00 VIRB Elite R5199.00 Pre-launch price...

Is this not simply the replacement lens for the dive case? So useless without the dive case?

Same problem as the Sony

Was diagnosed by physician. There is no significant ECG changes or complications on stress, and no further blocks or ectopic foci due to the AV and BB blocks (besides for the occational PVC). Previous visit to sports doc it was suggested to follow it up if symptomatic, or HR drops below 28. Currently not on any meds (and those listed would probably reduce contractility/heart rate further?). Current waiting period to see cardologist is exetremely long (unless emergency).

Here is some basic info: Age: 38 Resting HR: 32 bpm Predicted HR max: 182 bpm (assuming the 220 – age thing) Actual HR max: 152 bpm BP resting: 110/66 mmHg (can get my max systolic up to about 200 mmHg if I really push) ECG shows: - 1st degree AV block - Incomplete LBBB, progressing to what appears to be complete as I get fitter - Occasional PVC’s at rest, but disappears with exercise as HR increases Had echo done about 8 years ago, which showed no wall motion abnormalities. I am still reasonably unfit, and have only really been training again for the last 3-4 weeks following rest for most of the winter with injuries. During last weekend's Engen race my average HR for the race was 116 bpm (with a max of 149). With my current training my resting heart rate should drop below the 30s within the next month or so. I have had my resting HR down to about 26 or 27 bpm, but that was about 10 years ago when I could still run a 2:35 marathon. So at which time is training no longer advisable where the possible complications may out way the benefits?

Thanx! So much for advertising saying it is a ‘cost effective’ power meter...

I got an e-mail from Garmin SA yesterday stating that the Vector (pedal based power meter) has been launched in SA. It is not available on their online store yet. Any idea of pricing?

Thanx!

+1

Where?

Thanx for the heads up Hope you didn't lose any money

Thanks to the marshals on bikes! Especially the guys on the GS1200’s and Super Tenere for managing the traffic brilliantly. Made for a very enjoyable race.

This is still an estimation based on a population group. Might work for you, but won't for everyone.