seven

Side note: Barhugger no longer exists on this forum, unfortunately

Interesting... Then definately don't leave it 'loaded' in the car on a nice sunny gauteng day like today

As far as I remember the XT310 ia also ant+, so you can use that strap in the interim

Come do an ASG event up in Gauteng, and you will see what overpriced means

I'm sure it must have a safety pressure release valve

Yes, and Yes...Any ant+ strap will work. For run/swim metrics you will need the specific strap. For running - Run or Tri For swimming - Swim or Tri Keep an eye on the classifieds, they pop up regularly

Link doesn't exist... ????

Doubt it was only 10min. I was standing at that water point for 15min waiting for someone, and when I got there it had already run out on water. ASG, what happened to the 'goody bag' for early entries?

Why do I keep feeling like ASG is taking me for a ride, and its getting progressively worse

Would also like to know.. and would like some Much Luv in other colours!

Oky, edited my response

Blasphemous comments are idiotic

Never said incorrect form! Just not what I'm looking for

I am obviously nowhere near Shaun Meiklejohn's league, but his running style (see foot strike in photo) is the exact opposite of what I am currently going for.

Also trying something similar

Interesting

I also find that "gym" does not increase my weight (as long as I keep the cardio up). I think it would actually increase your power:weight ratio, not decrease it.

O-Synce mixPro http://www.o-synce.com/en/products/running-fitness/mix-series/mixpro.html Free analysis software. Compatible with most other software/tracking systems.

Thanx! I'll have a look at Cape Union Mart

Agree

From the net. 1. Sometimes speed wobble can result simply because of a poorly manufactured and designed frame. The wheels may be misaligned (front wheel and back wheel aren’t tracking in the same spot) and the bike is fighting itself. There are very few frames this poorly made these days, but you’ll still find them. 2 A scenario seen relatively often is that the top tube of the bike is under-built. If you put a lot of weight on the saddle the front end of the bike can pivot around the seat tube and create oscillation. An under-built top tube isn’t stiff enough to stop that from happening. Another thing that can happen is that the trail (the product of head angle and fork rake) of the bike is too large. What happens is that the bike becomes too stable at speed and the large trail over corrects itself and brings the wheel past center, and the wheel moves back and recorrects itself again which is where the wobble comes from. This is relatively common problem that Baum tells me he’s seen in the past. 3. Incorrect weight distribution is a very common cause of speed wobble. Quite often, speed wobble has just as much to do with the rider as it does with the bike. If speed wobble starts occurring, many people will intuatively put their weigh towards the back of the bike instead of putting their weight towards the front to actually stop it and dampen it out. The best thing to do to get out of a wobble is to weight one of your legs down at the 6/12 o’clock position, put some weight on the front end by bending your elbows (use soft hands – don’t grip handlebars firmly!), and take some weight off your seat (to take the pivot point away) which puts more weight back on the handlebars, which puts more weight on the front wheel. This will usually bring stability back to the bike and correct the oscillation. The reason it’s suggested that the pedals be in the 6/12 o’clock position (rather than the 3/9 o’clock position) is because this will bring your body weight into a better balanced position which will calm the bike down. Different riders may experience speed wobble on different bikes. A bike can descend like a dream for one rider, while another will get the fright of his life on the very same bike. Things like stem length on a particular geometry and weight distribution of the rider can have a lot to do with it.

May be not the best forum to ask, but I’m looking for a backpack to run with. Any suggestions? Perhaps some of the AR guys can help. Would like to use if for general running to gym etc. and a 40k (round trip) running commute to and from work once a week. Ideally something stable around the torso. The bag I currently use for my cycle commute just won't work.

Excuse my lack of ‘technical knowledge’ but… I cannot see how a combination of forefoot and rearfoot varus would cause this, or how a 1.5mm lift would make any difference. Are you saying it should be a medial (inside of the foot only) lift, not the entire foot? Surely the body (leg) can compensate enough to make up the 1.5mm, especially in cycling? Would this not be linked more to tibial torsion than simply varus/valgus? I agree that slight overextension of the knee (or excessively deep flexion as in Surv0MTB’s case) could aggravate this. If there is no previous history of this I would follow V12 and check cleat position again. Most cyclists could do with a little toeing-out, but tend to set their cleats up so the feet run parallel to the crank arm. I would also drop the seat a bit, and try to minimise grinding the big gears/hills for a while. Even though VMO/VL may be an issue, it tends to start with the knee collapsing to the inside during the power stroke. Even though this is sometimes linked to a more ‘aero’ position, it is generally not very good for knee function. As a last thought, do you have the same amount of float on your new cleats as the old ones? With new cleats (even if it’s the exact same model as old set), it send to be more stiff once clipped in, allowing less float. Alignment is perhaps more important with new cleats than older worn ones. No expert, just some thoughts.

Love the black

I totally agree with you, but it does not condone this “I rule the road” attitude that everyone (pedestrians, cyclists, motorists, taxi drivers, etc...) has in SA. No one gives a **** about the other.