Quagga

Thank you for posting this Here is my thinking, TBMTBC members should understand that we are riding on a the owners land and if he now wants to change the type of income he gets we should not go and petition against it. We can make a bad name for ourselves with an action like that. In the process make finding more farms to ride on very difficult If I owned a piece of land and see MTB'ers petitioning etc I would think twice before I will let my land be used. Just now I change my mind in 2 years and want to change how the land is used, now I face a huge uphill battle with petitions etc

Is the brake hard now what caused the shinyness in the first place? I bed them in slowly as I read you do not want them to get hot, hot is what causes the shinyness Play it cool. If brake pads overheat when new, it can permanently change the underlying structure of the materials they’re made from – and not for the better. Until the brakes are fully bedded, drivers should avoid the heavy braking that leads to overheating: whether it’s because they’re braking from high speed, towing heavy loads, or driving on steep terrain.

Damn I edited the wrong post Will fix now

Ok I have been doing my best to get to grips with the new look, but unfortunately Admin I can not say I like it It is very busy on a desktop, maybe just me that like things simpler. It seems more like a FB feel now, with people metioning me or reacting to my post etc. Not really a fan of the new look. Not sure if anyone else feels the same edit

There is a good chance you have glased them, and the not bedding them in is not a ship that sails. Take the blocks out, and sand them with some sand paper while checking if they are shinny. Sand till no more shinny left Put back and bed them in again.

Try this? Hold Menu symbol or MENU.Select Settings > Sensors & Accessories > Power.Select your sensor.Select Crank Length. Enter the crank length, and select

Ahh so you have the new type :-) Same here on the rear wheel, so garmin will calculate the wheel size at the start of every ride. In theory as your tyre wears down it still stay very accurate (not sure if 1mm matters ) My Garmin is set on all the profiles except for the (IDT profile where I set the wheel size) to automatic

Do you run a magnet on your wheel? Garmin will calculate the wheel diameter when you have a magnet using the first few hunders meters of your ride to check the wheel rotation vs distance traveled calculated by GPS

Ask stages on their Facebook page And garmin

Is that not something you enter on the watch Edit: are you sure that is the PM that paired with your watch, none of the serail number look simular?

I did this IDT road bike EDIT: BTW all SRAM X RD's and shiffters are pull ration of 1 to 1 so X9 9 speed will work with 9 / 10 RD etc

I finance everything, incase I die tomorrow and play the cash out every month

Low blow..... What if the OP has just bought his first house and first car. Or has only been workig for year or three and do not have savings yet. You know nothing about me, what I drive, ride etc yet you have taken a few low blows at me and others

I have another set of rims on my dual, that i only ride offroad. It has 300km on it, no cracks. I also had a WTB with 5000 plus on it when I sold it, and it was still perfect. I have seen only two rim manufactures crack like this length wise and drive side spokes. Stans Arch and Crest and even Flow Roval

That is IF you can afford scenario two

Correct. I still have the very first one on the front when I bought the set. So Front is fine, but as a rear wheel it is not

Agreed the nubmers work. However most people who is sitting on 60k did not save that up in one year. More than likely saved it at R2k per month over a few years. Thus they are not going to be able to affoard the R5500 "saving" Financing anything is never a good idea, but sometime the only alternative.

Not for everyone. There are people out there that has house and bike as necessity. Even some that has a checker trolley as a necessity. Depends on what angle you are looking at it OP. Try to not finance the bike using the bike finance companies, rather look at credit card (then put the card away and dont use it, just pay it off like a loan) Or personal loan, or overdraft. If you have any savings somewhere try not to use it. Try and get a loan for the same amount as your savings or close to it. Why would I say this? Your saving is earning (very little lets say 4%) you get a loan / overdraft you are paying lets say 12%. Now where in this country can you get finance for 7% and at the end of your loan period you still have your capital :-)

Did you finance your house? Your car? Why did you buy a house or car within your budget?

All 3 rims were built by 3 different well knows wheel builders. Spoke tension meter was at least twice. I am 90kg and this was on my hard tail Niner that was used for my 14km each way tar commute. The last rim saw 15km of gravel road in a year according to Strava. These rims all crack every 2nd spoke, drive side rear. Myself and two other friends had the same thing. Rear wheel drive side cracks. The weigh 80kg and 78.

I am also trying to figure that out.it is not like a car where you have more volume for oil that what amount you need to put in The whole idea with hydraulic brakes are that you fill all the space with fluid.

Not sorted. I chucked my 3rd replacement rim when Droo opened after lockdown last year for a WTB

Why should I pay for the rebuild of a frame if it fails under warrenty===if it did NOT fail I would never have had to pay that money and that is what you want when you buy a product for it to not fail. The manufacturere has a warrenty to say to me "in the unlikely event it does fail we will get you another one" So if it does FAIL they need to put me in the same possition as the day I bought it.

Why must the manufacture of the derailleur pay and the manufacture of the frame does not need to pay?

Did this happen here on the hub?