Quagga

Ahh so you have the new type :-) Same here on the rear wheel, so garmin will calculate the wheel size at the start of every ride. In theory as your tyre wears down it still stay very accurate (not sure if 1mm matters ) My Garmin is set on all the profiles except for the (IDT profile where I set the wheel size) to automatic

Do you run a magnet on your wheel? Garmin will calculate the wheel diameter when you have a magnet using the first few hunders meters of your ride to check the wheel rotation vs distance traveled calculated by GPS

Ask stages on their Facebook page And garmin

Is that not something you enter on the watch Edit: are you sure that is the PM that paired with your watch, none of the serail number look simular?

I did this IDT road bike EDIT: BTW all SRAM X RD's and shiffters are pull ration of 1 to 1 so X9 9 speed will work with 9 / 10 RD etc

I finance everything, incase I die tomorrow and play the cash out every month

Low blow..... What if the OP has just bought his first house and first car. Or has only been workig for year or three and do not have savings yet. You know nothing about me, what I drive, ride etc yet you have taken a few low blows at me and others

I have another set of rims on my dual, that i only ride offroad. It has 300km on it, no cracks. I also had a WTB with 5000 plus on it when I sold it, and it was still perfect. I have seen only two rim manufactures crack like this length wise and drive side spokes. Stans Arch and Crest and even Flow Roval

That is IF you can afford scenario two

Correct. I still have the very first one on the front when I bought the set. So Front is fine, but as a rear wheel it is not

Agreed the nubmers work. However most people who is sitting on 60k did not save that up in one year. More than likely saved it at R2k per month over a few years. Thus they are not going to be able to affoard the R5500 "saving" Financing anything is never a good idea, but sometime the only alternative.

Not for everyone. There are people out there that has house and bike as necessity. Even some that has a checker trolley as a necessity. Depends on what angle you are looking at it OP. Try to not finance the bike using the bike finance companies, rather look at credit card (then put the card away and dont use it, just pay it off like a loan) Or personal loan, or overdraft. If you have any savings somewhere try not to use it. Try and get a loan for the same amount as your savings or close to it. Why would I say this? Your saving is earning (very little lets say 4%) you get a loan / overdraft you are paying lets say 12%. Now where in this country can you get finance for 7% and at the end of your loan period you still have your capital :-)

Did you finance your house? Your car? Why did you buy a house or car within your budget?

All 3 rims were built by 3 different well knows wheel builders. Spoke tension meter was at least twice. I am 90kg and this was on my hard tail Niner that was used for my 14km each way tar commute. The last rim saw 15km of gravel road in a year according to Strava. These rims all crack every 2nd spoke, drive side rear. Myself and two other friends had the same thing. Rear wheel drive side cracks. The weigh 80kg and 78.

I am also trying to figure that out.it is not like a car where you have more volume for oil that what amount you need to put in The whole idea with hydraulic brakes are that you fill all the space with fluid.

Not sorted. I chucked my 3rd replacement rim when Droo opened after lockdown last year for a WTB

Why should I pay for the rebuild of a frame if it fails under warrenty===if it did NOT fail I would never have had to pay that money and that is what you want when you buy a product for it to not fail. The manufacturere has a warrenty to say to me "in the unlikely event it does fail we will get you another one" So if it does FAIL they need to put me in the same possition as the day I bought it.

Why must the manufacture of the derailleur pay and the manufacture of the frame does not need to pay?

Did this happen here on the hub?

The whatsapp group that I belong to, had the electrical issue highlighted from one of the pilots friens who was there. But who knowns what really happened

Not that I am defending them but from what I heard the light came on because it was grounding Thus and electrical issue

Cool thanks. I see the pic you posted but can not find yhat I still can not find it using the site

How do you find that erf one the map? I searched erf 1783. Nothing 1783, houtbay. Nothing

The "low fuel" light came on and they decided to rather land. They found it was NOT out of fuel when checking the wing and could take off and carry on.

What is the rpm? Lots of people say spin out. But don’t post rpm. I have a friend that “spins out” at 95 rpm That is spinning out in my mind. That is not training correctly