New Landy new life

She must have grabbed a handful of front breaks for that to happen as you drop so fast for rear breaks to be of any use.

Ja, felt steeper for me also but all in a days work

I also rode almost only on the front breaks as I blead my breaks the night before and cocked something up and had a huge airlock in the rear system. That nasty short steep drop off in the first half was the only brown undies moment for me as I am fairly light so managed ok on about 40% rear breaking

Anyone have the actual climb on the 57? I took it a little too easy toward the last 20 as the race announcer said the last 20 were tough. Turns out the last 12 or so were dead easy and I should have pushed a lot harder after it seemed that the hills were over. At least I will know for next year.

Done, found battery was still OK after all. Voltage still over 3 V. Checked with stronger magnet and all good again. Going to have to re-position magnet on crank. Strangely though, I did check with this magnet before I went to all the trouble of opening the unit up and nothing happened even though I could hear the click from the magnetic switch - just a weird one

OK. Mine is only 1,5 years in use - strange that it no longer works as it's only done 366 hours

Thanks, I assume you can open again when you need to change again?

I am busy changing my battery on a CS3000 cadence sensor. What type of glue should I use to assemble again and keep watertight?

So how tough is the 80? O see the climb is about 1700 meters so I guess not a walk in the park. Last year I see only 24 folk took part. Not sure if I should just do it to say I survived but I'm sure I will be riding all alone right at the back.

Those TLD shorts on the site look great at $86 but shipping is $50 extra

Worked for the front breaks but not rear with longer lines. The video I followed showed first trying to suck bubbles from the calliper with the lever pulled to the handlebar. Manual shows that you first push fluid from calliper to top syringe, then pull the lever, and then suck the bubbles from the calliper, remove syringe, fit screw, then release lever and suck bubbles from master cylinder.

Just for interest sake - I was struggling to get rid of air in my rear breaks following the SRAM video guide for Juicy 3. I then downloaded the instructions and low and behold, the video has the steps the wrong way round and when I followed the manual method, the air was gone. So if anyone needs to do it the correct way, first read the manual and just refer to the SRAM video as a how to but not the sequence.

That was brilliant - stayed on my little 26" for the whole way through that rock garden - superb route. Took me the first 27km to get my energy levels back as I started feeling really poorly in the beginning - never felt that before and nearly turned back as I though I may have been coming down with something. After taking a gu I seemed to come back to life. Anyone know what the actual climb was

I found the mapping on Endomondo on my cell phone shows a lot of existing offroad routes also

Looks like the eTrex 10 only has a basic world map however and not capable of loading GarMaps or Tracks For africa

Just replaced mine on the Juicy 3 as part of the seal change R155 per calliper set The old pistons were very brittle probably from heat but almost seemed like a cast iron material where the pin that centers the pad

Max HR 185 Avg HR 165 3h43 That was redline for my age group but just not good enough sadly. More time in the saddle it is

Turns out I can chew gum and walk in a straight line - all worked out fine and breaks work a treat. Quite chuffed with my home made bleed kit courtesy of left-over syringes and hoses etc from the wife who work's in a operating theater. The M5 fittings I got at Hyflo which has a ferrule that just happened to fit the surgical hose and was tight under quite some pressure - the fitting that goes into the calliper I had to grind away the hexagon to match the diameter of the blanking plug and I just added a tiny o-ring from my box of assorted o-rings. Some crappy quality pics of my kit. http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee420/Landy1973/IMG-20140428-00211_zps0d889192.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee420/Landy1973/IMG-20140428-00212_zpseabe4d3a.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee420/Landy1973/IMG-20140428-00215_zpsbfe5f33c.jpg

i have the seals and pistons already so want to give it a shot - just trying to get the correct Fluid

Was disappointed with my time - last year I always finished in the middle of the field at most events Now drifting to the two thirds mark - was overtaken by a lot of people - very demotivating Maybe only the fit Lads pitched for the 63 I am telling myself. Better spend more time with my bike or buy a lighter 29 'er

Can I use dot 4 break fluid with Juicy 3 breaks as Dot 5.1 I could not find - Even CWC did not have

My mate from PMB did the 40 and came back completely clean so it must have been a much easier and less muddy route than the 60

I had a cheap-ish set of Ryder gloves that had brilliant padding and lasted me forever. Only ditched them cause I dropped one at after a race I see CWC still has them for R170. Are they still very good (IMHO) or are there better gloves out there that I should look at. For me R400 + that I have seen at some LBS stores is a bit steep and seem to have very little padding for that price.

Know what you mean - I took six months to heal from getting Titanium Pins in my hip from not escaping my cleats. Now I ride with toe straps, much safer. Then not a year later I cracked a scapula but this only took 6 weeks before I could race again. http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee420/Landy1973/2012-09-30101547.jpg

CWC is looking for me - found also on FleaBay but I would rather buy from CWC